

DennyTuna
RIP-Logan-Dylan-Never forgotten!
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18 Winder LTX LE W/EPS
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It does everything better than the Rip 2 with studs. I'm not a speed demon but I did do a couple of WOT runs, one on a plowed county road and one a wide flat and straight section of trail. My top speed on the GPS was 119 and I'm sure it was on the county road but the trail WOT felt just as fast. I don't use my gauge speedometer as its for AFR and boost on the left side and RPM's on the right. The GPS shows speed but its pretty small letters, easy to see until you reach 100 and your helmet wants to get ripped off your head.For top speed, how is this comparing to a rip2 1.25 with studs?

KnappAttack
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Some good reports! Sounds like this track is a winner. I just ordered one myself. For top speed, how is this comparing to a rip2 1.25 with studs?
Put studs in any track and its going to rob away top speed, and the more studs the bigger loss of MPH as long as you have enough traction to run that speed say in packed snow. The least amount of weight you need to throw around, the least amount of studs to make track roll easier without interference the more MPH potential you will have if speed is important.
On the other hand, in a drag race for ET or getting there quick, good luck on a pre-studded track if you need the traction of a pure studded track.
I've run Ice Rippers before and they are fantastic on conditions you need better traction than a bare track, say on an icy hill or corner, but if looking for a drag race they wont work like a studded track. Lots of Canadians run for speed and I think this new track would be the hot ticket if you want this lug height.


Mills
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I have had several people PM me asking the total height of the track from base to top of stud so I thought I would put it on here for more info. Looks like it is 1-5/8" with track thickness, lug height and stud height above lug.
Thanks again Mills! GREAT people on this site!


STAIN
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I was just doing a track inspection on my Rip2 1.5 before a week long trip and found about 5 studs that are starting to rip the track. They have not ripped out but are starting. I removed all the studs for my trip as I don't want any going through the exchanger while out in the boonies.
I may have to look at this Arrowhead as a replacement next fall.
I may have to look at this Arrowhead as a replacement next fall.


STAIN
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After riding @900 on a track with no studs, I may have changed my mind on this Arrowhead track.
Most of my riding was fine with little need for added traction until Friday. It had rained then froze. It then snowed @ an inch.
My sled was a handful all day. Not just the rear ,the whole sled. It was all over the place. It was not until I got on a similar sled with studs that I saw the effect of studs on not only the rear but the front of the sled. The whole sled was far more stable than mine. The added traction from the rear was helping to keep the front end in place. I had never really thought of this before.
I am now questioning if the Arrowhead track would provide enough traction, both acceleration and braking wise, for 240 hp.
I have had pre-studded tracks in the past on my RX-1 ,Apex and Nytro and they worked fine, but none had near the power of the Sidewinder.
If not a pre-studded track, then do I get another 1.5 or go back to the original 1.25? Food for thought this summer.
Most of my riding was fine with little need for added traction until Friday. It had rained then froze. It then snowed @ an inch.
My sled was a handful all day. Not just the rear ,the whole sled. It was all over the place. It was not until I got on a similar sled with studs that I saw the effect of studs on not only the rear but the front of the sled. The whole sled was far more stable than mine. The added traction from the rear was helping to keep the front end in place. I had never really thought of this before.
I am now questioning if the Arrowhead track would provide enough traction, both acceleration and braking wise, for 240 hp.
I have had pre-studded tracks in the past on my RX-1 ,Apex and Nytro and they worked fine, but none had near the power of the Sidewinder.
If not a pre-studded track, then do I get another 1.5 or go back to the original 1.25? Food for thought this summer.
number1kyster
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I know you have run many different kinds of tracks. Which has been your favorite? My sled is going to need a new track for next season, and at 146”, there are less options.After riding @900 on a track with no studs, I may have changed my mind on this Arrowhead track.
Most of my riding was fine with little need for added traction until Friday. It had rained then froze. It then snowed @ an inch.
My sled was a handful all day. Not just the rear ,the whole sled. It was all over the place. It was not until I got on a similar sled with studs that I saw the effect of studs on not only the rear but the front of the sled. The whole sled was far more stable than mine. The added traction from the rear was helping to keep the front end in place. I had never really thought of this before.
I am now questioning if the Arrowhead track would provide enough traction, both acceleration and braking wise, for 240 hp.
I have had pre-studded tracks in the past on my RX-1 ,Apex and Nytro and they worked fine, but none had near the power of the Sidewinder.
If not a pre-studded track, then do I get another 1.5 or go back to the original 1.25? Food for thought this summer.
Storm 150
Ice Arrowhead
Or possible a 1.36 Cobra takeoff track with studs
I have the 1.6 ice cobra now, and I don’t think I can get another 1,000 miles out of it. I wish they offered a 146” 1.5 Rip2. Whatever I go with, it needs to be 2 ply.


STAIN
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Funny you asked this, I was researching 146 tracks yesterday after getting a little nervous about the reliability this Cobra 1.6I know you have run many different kinds of tracks. Which has been your favorite? My sled is going to need a new track for next season, and at 146”, there are less options.
Storm 150
Ice Arrowhead
Or possible a 1.36 Cobra takeoff track with studs
I have the 1.6 ice cobra now, and I don’t think I can get another 1,000 miles out of it. I wish they offered a 146” 1.5 Rip2. Whatever I go with, it needs to be 2 ply.
I was surprised at the lack of options for the 146, something I did not do my homework on before purchasing this Riot.
Anything over 1.5 is out for me, as we run a lot of hard trails out here in the Northeast as you know. I don't ride off trail.
Single ply tracks are out.
I liked the pre-studded tracks on my lower horsepower sleds, RX-1's, Apex;s Nytro's etc.
BUT
I don't think an 'ice' version of the available tracks would be good enough to hold the power of these 998t's
That only leaves the Storm 1.5 as far as I can see. I did run one of these on my 2017 SW with a tune. The track seemed to stretch over time but worked pretty well.
I did check to see what the S-TX runs for a track and it is a 146 Rip 1 1.25. That track is only available through Yamaha as far as I can see. I could be wrong. That would probably be an option for me if I was to change tracks.
In the end, I will try to run this Cobra 1.6 with a 4-2 stud pattern to keep it from spinning too much and damaging the lugs.

RobX-1
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For what Yamaha wanted for their Ripsaw II 1.25", I did not even consider it when replacing my 146". And, you are correct in that they appear to be the only ones still offering this track. Maybe that is why they want over 2K for it.That track is only available through Yamaha as far as I can see. I could be wrong. That would probably be an option for me if I was to change tracks.


STAIN
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RobX-1
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My bad as I thought the 146" my Apex used was the same as as what the Sidewinders/Artic Cats used; its the 8KL-47110-00-00. Just when I read you mentioning it only being available from Yamaha, I figured pricing would be similar.

twyztid
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That doesn't mean that it is actually available. With most Yamaha parts nowadays (and a lot of Arctic Cat parts), you can't trust that you will actually get it if ordered unless you have the dealer check inventory or find a dealer with the part in stock. Yamaha & Arctic Cat don't even have any jackshaft bearings in stock for these sleds (and it is a special bearing that is OEM only). I had to find a dealer that had a couple in stock.

twyztid
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The Ice Arrowhead would likely hook up better than other pre-studded tracks but still won't hook up like actual studs.Funny you asked this, I was researching 146 tracks yesterday after getting a little nervous about the reliability this Cobra 1.6
I was surprised at the lack of options for the 146, something I did not do my homework on before purchasing this Riot.
Anything over 1.5 is out for me, as we run a lot of hard trails out here in the Northeast as you know. I don't ride off trail.
Single ply tracks are out.
I liked the pre-studded tracks on my lower horsepower sleds, RX-1's, Apex;s Nytro's etc.
BUT
I don't think an 'ice' version of the available tracks would be good enough to hold the power of these 998t's
That only leaves the Storm 1.5 as far as I can see. I did run one of these on my 2017 SW with a tune. The track seemed to stretch over time but worked pretty well.
I did check to see what the S-TX runs for a track and it is a 146 Rip 1 1.25. That track is only available through Yamaha as far as I can see. I could be wrong. That would probably be an option for me if I was to change tracks.
In the end, I will try to run this Cobra 1.6 with a 4-2 stud pattern to keep it from spinning too much and damaging the lugs.

Camso ICE° Arrowhead 130 146" 9439H
The precision-engineered Camso Ice Arrowhead snowmobile track is sure to improve performance on your snowmobile.
acpantera
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I get the effectiveness of push through studs, but for 137" track there's 320studs with of 80 scratch lines, I would venture to say it might be pretty darn close to 144 push through studs.The Ice Arrowhead would likely hook up better than other pre-studded tracks but still won't hook up like actual studs.
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Camso ICE° Arrowhead 130 146" 9439H
The precision-engineered Camso Ice Arrowhead snowmobile track is sure to improve performance on your snowmobile.www.cbperformanceparts.com


STAIN
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Having had both, I have to disagreed a bit. While the ICE tracks work well, they can never achieve the level of penetration a push through stud can.
The ICE tracks work very well if safety is your priority, but if maximum traction is your goal, then push through studs are the way to go.
The ICE tracks work very well if safety is your priority, but if maximum traction is your goal, then push through studs are the way to go.
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