nytroxtx17
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I just bought a new 2018 Sidewinder LTX SE and got a good end of season deal. I pick it up in a week or so with no plans to ride it until next season. I’ve read a few different threads regarding various issues, and wanted to get some advice from owners who have put some miles on Sidewinders already. Knowing what you know now, what would you recommend I do to my brand new sled over the summer to avoid any issues? Bearing re-pack, turbo bolts anti-seize, etc...
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Doc Harley
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Congrats on the new sled! I like that anti-seize idea. You can make a tool to help with bolts.
Big topic is belts. So just for giggles, take measurements.
Check all clamps you come in contact with. Intake, cooling, etc.
Enjoy
Big topic is belts. So just for giggles, take measurements.
Check all clamps you come in contact with. Intake, cooling, etc.
Enjoy
SaskAttack
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#1, and more of a safety issue, different skis! Have a look at member RockerDan's build thread, I think he covered almost anything that can be done to a Winder!
nytroxtx17
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Also Any opinion on the LTX SE vs. The LTX DX. I like the all black sled but it doesn’t come with the front fox shocks like the SE, instead it has a heated seat. I’ve never ridden with a heated seat so just looking for some feedback from owners of both models. Are the front fox shocks that much better than the hpg ‘s on the DX model? How much do you like having a heated seat?
nytroxtx17
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Okay thanks I will cruise Dan’s posts, also which skis did you switch to?#1, and more of a safety issue, different skis! Have a look at member RockerDan's build thread, I think he covered almost anything that can be done to a Winder!
SaskAttack
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Tried a set of pilots, 5.9's , really liked them and a huge difference over tuners. Handle very well and turn easy and usually cheap upgrade. I have a set of Curves but never got to try them out on Winder. Would like to try a set of 6.9 pilots for the flotation.
The heated seat is a good accessory, would never have thought of buying one or making sure to add it. Bought a 15 Viper and the model I wanted came with heated seat, couldn't believe the difference it makes on a cold day. I don't usually get cold but sometimes out in -30's or so you will notice it in your extremities, heat pad seems to warm up your core so blood going to extremities stays warmer. Don't even need it on high, amazed at the difference it makes.
The heated seat is a good accessory, would never have thought of buying one or making sure to add it. Bought a 15 Viper and the model I wanted came with heated seat, couldn't believe the difference it makes on a cold day. I don't usually get cold but sometimes out in -30's or so you will notice it in your extremities, heat pad seems to warm up your core so blood going to extremities stays warmer. Don't even need it on high, amazed at the difference it makes.
STAIN
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I hate to say this, but don't read to much!!! Some issues get blown out of proportion and can make a worry wart out of you when you are not riding. Ride the sled STOCK first and adjust it to YOUR liking. Sometimes the "follow the herd" mentality sends you in the wrong direction.
POWERHAULIC
VIP Member
DX has Fox rebuildable shocks all around.Also Any opinion on the LTX SE vs. The LTX DX. I like the all black sled but it doesn’t come with the front fox shocks like the SE, instead it has a heated seat. I’ve never ridden with a heated seat so just looking for some feedback from owners of both models. Are the front fox shocks that much better than the hpg ‘s on the DX model? How much do you like having a heated seat?
Heated seat is awsome
All black with some decals removed.........priceless lol
WVTurboLTX
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2017 Sidewinder LTX LE
I had a DX viper and now have an LE sidewinder. The difference with the shocks was night and day. The sled rides completely different. Not sure about the difference between the SE and LE ride though. I was running through 8-12 in chop on tug hill last weekend at 60 mph and was completely in control. On the DX I would have been going 20 mph and bottoming.
POWERHAULIC
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Must be a difference in Viper shocks then, as I am 230lb have spring preload full soft all around and rarely bottom on my DX
RollinTurbo
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******** MUST DO***********
Take a look at the oil change process.... then take a Look at the panel on right lower side (under your side panel on exhaust side) this runs from foot well to front of sled and is held in place by rivets. Don't be shy drill them puppies out... with side panel off ..... INSALL riv-nuts in each hole .... I found mine at local hardware store... they use a 5mm bolt that will now hold this panel on.....
Someone on here had a post about it so I have to give credit but IT MAKES CHANGING OIl SUPER EASY!
Also check and recheck gain case tensioner... with all the failures i have read about you may want to take cover off and inspect everything closely as someone at factory clearly was sleepy.... I use locative like adhesive on tensioner bolt along with rubber hose clamped around nut and bolt
Take a look at the oil change process.... then take a Look at the panel on right lower side (under your side panel on exhaust side) this runs from foot well to front of sled and is held in place by rivets. Don't be shy drill them puppies out... with side panel off ..... INSALL riv-nuts in each hole .... I found mine at local hardware store... they use a 5mm bolt that will now hold this panel on.....
Someone on here had a post about it so I have to give credit but IT MAKES CHANGING OIl SUPER EASY!
Also check and recheck gain case tensioner... with all the failures i have read about you may want to take cover off and inspect everything closely as someone at factory clearly was sleepy.... I use locative like adhesive on tensioner bolt along with rubber hose clamped around nut and bolt
nytroxtx17
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******** MUST DO***********
Take a look at the oil change process.... then take a Look at the panel on right lower side (under your side panel on exhaust side) this runs from foot well to front of sled and is held in place by rivets. Don't be shy drill them puppies out... with side panel off ..... INSALL riv-nuts in each hole .... I found mine at local hardware store... they use a 5mm bolt that will now hold this panel on.....
Someone on here had a post about it so I have to give credit but IT MAKES CHANGING OIl SUPER EASY!
Also check and recheck gain case tensioner... with all the failures i have read about you may want to take cover off and inspect everything closely as someone at factory clearly was sleepy.... I use locative like adhesive on tensioner bolt along with rubber hose clamped around nut and bolt
So there are issues with the chain case tensioner? I hadn’t heard this one yet. I’m gathering it is not set correctly and may have a tendency to back off which is why you are using loctite on the tensioner bolt as well as the cheap clamps I have heard about. Did you replace any of the clamps with better quality clamps as well? Thanks for your comments, good advice
RollinTurbo
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well I have heard of several issues with chaincase and been part of one of them.....
1, Tensioner Jam-nut is not properly torqued and allows tensioner to loosen and back itself out leaving a loose Chain and all the oil pumps out hole
2, sight glass falls out of chaincase draining oil
3, what happened to me.... the gear selector was out of adjustment and apparently was fine for 300 miles brand new then after awhile of the gears/splines not being fully engaged because the shifter wasn't clocked right... she pushed the gear outward and at 107 mph came all undone... whole case trashed!!!
Get in and inspect it... doesn't seem to be quality of parts issue... seems to be poor assembly! So a good thoughtful inspection prob work out well... dealers are saying if there is an issue it usually happens before he first service when they check them over .... BUT DONT TRUST THE DEALER !
1, Tensioner Jam-nut is not properly torqued and allows tensioner to loosen and back itself out leaving a loose Chain and all the oil pumps out hole
2, sight glass falls out of chaincase draining oil
3, what happened to me.... the gear selector was out of adjustment and apparently was fine for 300 miles brand new then after awhile of the gears/splines not being fully engaged because the shifter wasn't clocked right... she pushed the gear outward and at 107 mph came all undone... whole case trashed!!!
Get in and inspect it... doesn't seem to be quality of parts issue... seems to be poor assembly! So a good thoughtful inspection prob work out well... dealers are saying if there is an issue it usually happens before he first service when they check them over .... BUT DONT TRUST THE DEALER !
XP123
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Also Any opinion on the LTX SE vs. The LTX DX. I like the all black sled but it doesn’t come with the front fox shocks like the SE, instead it has a heated seat. I’ve never ridden with a heated seat so just looking for some feedback from owners of both models. Are the front fox shocks that much better than the hpg ‘s on the DX model? How much do you like having a heated seat?
I don't care for the heated seat. Every time I use it I turn it off after a very short time. It is one thing I could care less if any of my future sleds have it.
I use high temp anti seize on my exhaust bolts and they are now a non issue. I would repack both the drive shaft and jack shaft bearings on the clutch side of the sled every season. The one on the drive shaft is a junk bearing made in China and I have seen it fail at around 3,000 miles.
Make sure you keep an eye on the chain case oil level and also make sure you check chain tension a couple times a season.
Also keep an eye on the oil tank. Many are having issues with oil leaking out from the seal.
Personally if you intend on keeping your engine stock leave the stock clutching. All the aftermarket clutching stuff is a lot of hype and not worth your aggravation trying to make it work.
I have mixed feelings about the roll over valve mod. I did it and rode with it but by the end of the season I found I was always checking it and it bothered me. Even after doing everything right with it I had ice build up where it exited at the running boards. My sled started to idle poorly so I grabbed the end of the hose and moved it around and a chunk of yellow ice came out and the sled once again idles correctly. I feel that this mod will give just as much or more trouble as the valve when temps get low. I even had a huge slit in my hose 8 inches above where the ice formed. I ended up going back to stock and I will take my chances with the valve.
This is a very high performance sled and with that comes more need to check things and correct things. This is also due to some suspect design flaws created by Cat.
I won't report about belt issues because I have 2800 trouble free miles on my original belt.
The end result is a sled that performs like no other sled that has ever been built. The power acceleration and performance feel can't be matched by anything other than another Winder.
The sled weighs a ton but you would never know it when you ride it. It steers and handles better than any of my Doo's and the ride is excellent. I love the seating position and find the overall feel of the sled to be top notch.
I would suggest you be careful when reading about all the issues here and don't be too quick to make changes. The sled right out of the box is very hard to improve on.
STAIN
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I cant agree
I can't agree with this statement. I would say a lot of the clutching talked about here doesn't work, there are other sources that do work.Personally if you intend on keeping your engine stock leave the stock clutching. All the aftermarket clutching stuff is a lot of hype and not worth your aggravation trying to make it work.
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