New sled!

[Pstn head]

If you can swing it, the Qs3r's on all 4 corners will be a nice upgrade.

Skis by the sounds of it your a very aggressive rider and imo Curves with 8" carbide square bar will fit the bill perfectly, that is if very heavy steering doesn't bother you, otherwise go with 6" round bar possibly 6" or longer still on a round bar or Slim Jims 6". I run Curves with 8" square shaper bar and while it's a bear to turn (only fresh groomed frozen first tracks) when the trail loosens up by like 8-9am the dam thing rails so hard through the turns it's wonderful.

The tri-hub from my experience has no issues, mine lasted 9500km and was still in good shape. (This outcome could differ from sled to sled depending on riding conditions etc.) again imo the Larson 4-wheel kit is superior becouse it goes through the rails similar to a true rear wheel axle setup.

Secondary clutch rollers are a must do ! Many vendors on this site sell high torque rollers and all have had great results.

If your going to mod it imo go all out with a flash bundle and neccasry accessories to match the tunes you'll run with.

Having said that I agree with Rocker Dan... Ride it first then make changes. But change skis, skis are a must! and enjoy, there's not much out there that gives you the rush this sled does out of the box performance wise. Be carful she's a fast one, Have fun.

 

[TheMogulMogul]

Instead of just looking at it you could do yourself a favor and drill out the lower exhaust side panel rivets and replace them with rivnuts and screws! You'll thank us after your first oil change/gear oil change!

Yeah I hear you fatchance, definitely going to do that first, plus anti-seize the turbo bolts while I'm in there.

 

[Pstn head]

Yeah I hear you fatchance, definitely going to do that first, plus anti-seize the turbo bolts while I'm in there.

Oh ya just remembered check torque on turbo mounting bolts, header pipe heat shield update, and tightness of hose clamps, coolant, charge tubes and oil lines, those were mostly first year 17 model woes. And when reinstalling hood to machine be sure not to knock the coolant fill cap loose.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Yeah I hear you fatchance, definitely going to do that first, plus anti-seize the turbo bolts while I'm in there.

I think the nickel anti-seize on muffler bolts is the #1 item that EVERYONE needs to do. If not, most everyone will break off a muffler bolt when removing muffler to adjust chain after it has been heat cycled/rode a few times. I also recommend swapping out stock muffler bolts for normal Hex head bolts w/normal lockwashers, all in Stainless steel, and no need to lay into them when tightening. Mine come off nicely everytime i remove them.

Dan

 

[jetpilot785]

I just snagged an nos 18 Sidewinder LTX SE, white/blue, and I am super stoked. I’m in western NY and will be mainly riding Tug, Old Forge, maybe some So Tier and dying to ride Canada. I’m coming off a ten year hiatus, had a Mach with oiler issues that discouraged me and I waited until I could buy a new sled. I like to ride hard.

I’ve done a bunch of research on here and am planning the Pilot 6.9s, the ROV delete, the tunnel reinforcement, maybe the stealth wheel. Huge thanks to Rockerdan, Knapp, Barnofparts, J&T, more than I can remember right now. You guys friggen rock!

So if you had a new SW what would you mod immediately and what would you hold off on?

Fellow WNY'r here. I ride all the areas you've mentioned and have 2 17 LTX's. One LE and One SE. The QS3r's are a very good shock so as mentioned, if you can swing the 2k to get them, go for it. The SE was upgraded to the standard QS3's front and the rear shock. The center skid shock is the same thing on the SE's as they were on the older LE's from a couple years ago. I picked up a set of shocks off here for $700 off a 16 viper LE. Two things with the shocks, first, if you ride hard, think about upgrading to the R's as they have thicker shafts and can take a beating. Second, if you stay with stock rear shocks, get them revalved by Bruce (former pioneer performace guru). PM me if you want his info. He did shocks for me on both SR Vipers years ago on the SE shocks and they were great. Broke 2 shafts stock and ZERO shafts after his revalve and we also ride fairly hard.

As far as ski's, I ditched the tuners and went with curves with 6-8" double downs or slim jims and they work awesome. Ran the stock skis on the viper and it pushed like a dump truck and 90% of the people on here will say the same thing.

Track wise, selling the ripsaw 1.25 is smart. I would actually go with the new Storm 150 track instead of the rip 2. Was going to do the same thing but heard about the new storm and waited and I'm glad i did. Awesome track with the center 1.5" lug design and 1.25" outer design. Tons of hook for exiting corners and straight hard pulls and the lower profile on the outside allows better pivoting and sled rotation. The track is stiffer like the ripsaw series so tough and durable without the flex like the cobra 1.6 but the cupped cobra type design allows great hook up in looser snow with minimal spin so its like having your cake and eating it too. I love them and have almost 4,000 miles on them collectively and would do it again in a heartbeat. Something to research while you wait.

Clutch wise, alot of good kits out there so it will be personal preference. I went with the Dalton stuff this go around and I like it alot. Easy to tune and very forgiving when conditions change. DAY 70's, black/blue primary, black/orange secondary in 7/1 position, TD high pressure rollers and 33/35 reverse helix works well for me. 8750-8800 rpms all day in good conditions which is where the dyno showed peak power in stock setup. This area you will get alot of opinions so all you can do is experiment until you get what you like for your riding style. I also added a vent to the lower panel to cool clutches better and no broken belts on either sled all season with almost 4000 miles collectively. I did run the 8DN belts so I lost a few mph but with the track and 192 studs hooking the way it did, I didn't care a bit. Still saw 102-105 consistently when my vipers were getting 85-88 in the same spots and the winder gets there quick. Just have to figure out this cutting out with backfire/stalling issue I have with both sleds. I will be putting in GSS342 pumps this year and see if that was it as I've tried everything else to no avail.

If you have any questions, PM me and I will send you my number and we can chat. Have fun with whatever add ons you choose to do.

 

[TheMogulMogul]

Fellow WNY'r here. I ride all the areas you've mentioned and have 2 17 LTX's. One LE and One SE. The QS3r's are a very good shock so as mentioned, if you can swing the 2k to get them, go for it. The SE was upgraded to the standard QS3's front and the rear shock. The center skid shock is the same thing on the SE's as they were on the older LE's from a couple years ago. I picked up a set of shocks off here for $700 off a 16 viper LE. Two things with the shocks, first, if you ride hard, think about upgrading to the R's as they have thicker shafts and can take a beating. Second, if you stay with stock rear shocks, get them revalved by Bruce (former pioneer performace guru). PM me if you want his info. He did shocks for me on both SR Vipers years ago on the SE shocks and they were great. Broke 2 shafts stock and ZERO shafts after his revalve and we also ride fairly hard.

As far as ski's, I ditched the tuners and went with curves with 6-8" double downs or slim jims and they work awesome. Ran the stock skis on the viper and it pushed like a dump truck and 90% of the people on here will say the same thing.

Track wise, selling the ripsaw 1.25 is smart. I would actually go with the new Storm 150 track instead of the rip 2. Was going to do the same thing but heard about the new storm and waited and I'm glad i did. Awesome track with the center 1.5" lug design and 1.25" outer design. Tons of hook for exiting corners and straight hard pulls and the lower profile on the outside allows better pivoting and sled rotation. The track is stiffer like the ripsaw series so tough and durable without the flex like the cobra 1.6 but the cupped cobra type design allows great hook up in looser snow with minimal spin so its like having your cake and eating it too. I love them and have almost 4,000 miles on them collectively and would do it again in a heartbeat. Something to research while you wait.

Clutch wise, alot of good kits out there so it will be personal preference. I went with the Dalton stuff this go around and I like it alot. Easy to tune and very forgiving when conditions change. DAY 70's, black/blue primary, black/orange secondary in 7/1 position, TD high pressure rollers and 33/35 reverse helix works well for me. 8750-8800 rpms all day in good conditions which is where the dyno showed peak power in stock setup. This area you will get alot of opinions so all you can do is experiment until you get what you like for your riding style. I also added a vent to the lower panel to cool clutches better and no broken belts on either sled all season with almost 4000 miles collectively. I did run the 8DN belts so I lost a few mph but with the track and 192 studs hooking the way it did, I didn't care a bit. Still saw 102-105 consistently when my vipers were getting 85-88 in the same spots and the winder gets there quick. Just have to figure out this cutting out with backfire/stalling issue I have with both sleds. I will be putting in GSS342 pumps this year and see if that was it as I've tried everything else to no avail.

If you have any questions, PM me and I will send you my number and we can chat. Have fun with whatever add ons you choose to do.

Fantastic post thanks! I will defintely reach out for a chat.

 

[TheMogulMogul]

Well it's official, the new sled is gonna be a 2018 L-TX LE instead. Signed my life away, delivery next weekend. Only prob is it's 9 hours away lol... What do they say, in for a penny, in for a whole shebang? Truth is that this sled was my favorite anyways. Bad to the bone.

 

[stevewithOCD]

Honestly if it were me I would do the Stealth Wheel kit and ride it before you sink money into it.

I agree with SAB.
Lots of great opinions here, but how much do you want to spend.
HONEST OPINION here.
On a budget:
1. 96 studs
2. Snowtrackers
3. RIDE

If you have money hanging out your pockets then:
1. J&T wheel kit
2. QSR3 shocks or AXIS
3. ECU & muffler mod
4. A lot of studs
5. Clutch components especially springs
6. Ski's (many good choices on this site) (all cost more then Snowtrackers)


Small low cost items recommended:
1. Japan throttle
2. Rivet-Nut side panel for easy removal & oil change
3. Clutch venting
4. ROV delete
5. Boost check
6. Check offset
7. Anti-seize on turbo bolts

I experimented & am very happy with my sled choices, but have some CH$NG into it.
I was one of first to put money down on 'Winder so there was no mentor to sit me down & say "listen kid, one step at a time"

 

[stevewithOCD]

You got the LE so the shocks are the best you can get.

 

[fatchance]

^^^not to mention the best color!

 

[Motorhead]

Well it's official, the new sled is gonna be a 2018 L-TX LE instead. Signed my life away, delivery next weekend. Only prob is it's 9 hours away lol... What do they say, in for a penny, in for a whole shebang? Truth is that this sled was my favorite anyways. Bad to the bone.

Well to start off with, Dam she sure is pretty.

So you’ve gone and done it! Asked everyone what should be done first to your new rocket... lots of great responses especially maintenance wise.

Skis and runners for sure. I hear that the sno trackers do make the tuners bearable in most conditions.

Traction for the rear.

Windshield for cold weather whereas the first part of the season is usually the coldest. By the end of February or beginning of March the better looking short windshields are doable, in Northern Maine anyways.

Rear view mirrors are a must.

Then ride it and you shall say, wow this sled is smooth and the power and speed can be deceptive.
Once tuned with 250 and over, you shall say, wow this sled is crazy fast and fun... Be safe and enjoy your beauty.

 

[TheMogulMogul]

You got the LE so the shocks are the best you can get.

According to dealer locator I snagged the second to last new old stock in the country, the other is in WI and now that is a haul. Interestingly the master tech where I got it said that they made a bunch of changes to the new SRX that he didn't like vs the 18 models. Buttons, switches, look and feel stuff, plus everything (grip warmers!) goes through the ECU now? He also said that intercooler lines were touching fluid reservoirs...

I am intrigued by the Jap throttle mod, gonna have to check out my buddy's '13 Apex and see it.

The clutch stuff I am a complete noob. I am gonna have to really study up on the weights and springs etc. I've never messed with em. I do understand the offset issue and I've blown enough $100 belts for a lifetime so I'm hoping that I have one of the good ones. Do I need that expensive tool to check it?

For the most part I am going to stick simply with handling (skis), safety (studs, wheel kit), and then the ROV delete etc stuff for the moment. I'm not sure how long I will last before I get the ECU flashed hahaha.

 

[stevewithOCD]

According to dealer locator I snagged the second to last new old stock in the country, the other is in WI and now that is a haul. Interestingly the master tech where I got it said that they made a bunch of changes to the new SRX that he didn't like vs the 18 models. Buttons, switches, look and feel stuff, plus everything (grip warmers!) goes through the ECU now? He also said that intercooler lines were touching fluid reservoirs...

I am intrigued by the Jap throttle mod, gonna have to check out my buddy's '13 Apex and see it.

The clutch stuff I am a complete noob. I am gonna have to really study up on the weights and springs etc. I've never messed with em. I do understand the offset issue and I've blown enough $100 belts for a lifetime so I'm hoping that I have one of the good ones. Do I need that expensive tool to check it?

For the most part I am going to stick simply with handling (skis), safety (studs, wheel kit), and then the ROV delete etc stuff for the moment. I'm not sure how long I will last before I get the ECU flashed hahaha.

Do NOT ride a tuned sled!
And DON'T try crack!

Same results......................except crack is less expensive

 

[TheMogulMogul]

You got the LE so the shocks are the best you can get.

Yeah, I blame Dan for that... haha but I am super stoked. It was another grand but cheap compared to messing with the SE after the fact. I dunno what I was thinking, maybe saw a 50th listing and thought that it applied to the SE too...

 

[TheMogulMogul]

Well to start off with, Dam she sure is pretty.

So you’ve gone and done it! Asked everyone what should be done first to your new rocket... lots of great responses especially maintenance wise.

.

Thanks Motorhead. THE ACE OF SPADES.

Yeah, these responses have been awesome, great resource this forum. I actually pledged VIP, but assume it takes a while to show up.