New to sidewinder

towman

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2014 viper ltx
Hello everyone i just recently purchased a 2017 sidewinder ltx dx with 350 miles. I have been doing a lot of reading on the forum including Rockerdan build thread. I would like to hear what are everyone,s thoughts on what mods i should do as i spend as much time off trail as on. Things im doing so far
vertical steering
skid plate
4 wheel kit
1.75 back country track
6.9 ski
 
Hello everyone i just recently purchased a 2017 sidewinder ltx dx with 350 miles. I have been doing a lot of reading on the forum including Rockerdan build thread. I would like to hear what are everyone,s thoughts on what mods i should do as i spend as much time off trail as on. Things im doing so far
vertical steering
skid plate
4 wheel kit
1.75 back country track
6.9 ski
Congrats on your new purchase! Trails open up in about 5 months!
 
Congrats on your new purchase! Trails open up in about 5 months!
Well this one was wrapped around a tree so while i have the front end off might as well do it all. I prefer to work on em when it is warm ride when it is cold
 
That model came with cheap shocks. So if you are replacing shocks because of “wrapped around a tree damage” I would look into the best offered in that year, the 3 position QS3R. And of course a Stock muffler tune for arm stretching power.

Sounds like you have a bit of research prior to this post, so maintenance knowledge has been acquired!

Good luck with your summer project.
 
-First thing i would do is green locktight on the drive shaft bearing. Personally i would put a better bearing there....
-Rubber or tape under the fusebox
- Ultimax xs825 is the best belt for you sled
- belly pan protector under clutch
- around 14oz in the chaincase
-do NOT over tighten the chain or you'll ruin the bushing of the top gear quickly




WOT


:die:letsnow::sled1::sled2:
 
Last edited:
-First thing i would do is green locktight on the drive shaft bearing. Personally i would put a better bearing there....
-Rubber or tape under the fusebox
- Ultimax xs825 is the best belt for you sled
- belly pan protector under clutch
- around 14oz in the chaincase
-do NOT over tighten the chain or you'll ruin the bushing of the top gear quickly




WOT


:die:letsnow::sled1::sled2::-o
:worth:


I did some internal chaincase chain rub damage when I was breaking mine in (By The Book), and chain stretch occurred between the 500 and 1100 mile chaincase inspection period.

Was advised by dealer to do 1 turn out after hand tightening with a lot of force, in fact he said move the secondary while hand tightening which will give you a bit extra. So I run it tight.

Changed my top gear to a 22 at about 1400 miles. At 5500 miles now and both the original 21 and the 22 still look new.

The stock 21 has about 1400 on it, while the 22 has the remainder of that 5500 stated.
Shall change out that 22 this coming season just to make sure though, cheap enough@ $24.

Yes I am tuned but do not run studs, just a pre studded Ice Attack XT and have always filled my case 1/2 up site glass with full syn.

Chain stretched that once when I started to turn it on after easy break in mileage. Since then it has not stretched again even while increasing hp with a more powerful tune 3000 miles ago.

So I Am not sure about your suggested looser chain tension!
 
Thanks for the advice i will try to get some pics next time im working on it.
 
If you run a 1.75 BC, you may need to do some clutch work even if you keep it stock.
 
I did some internal chaincase chain rub damage when I was breaking mine in (By The Book), and chain stretch occurred between the 500 and 1100 mile chaincase inspection period.

Was advised by dealer to do 1 turn out after hand tightening with a lot of force, in fact he said move the secondary while hand tightening which will give you a bit extra. So I run it tight.

Changed my top gear to a 22 at about 1400 miles. At 5500 miles now and both the original 21 and the 22 still look new.

The stock 21 has about 1400 on it, while the 22 has the remainder of that 5500 stated.
Shall change out that 22 this coming season just to make sure though, cheap enough@ $24.

Yes I am tuned but do not run studs, just a pre studded Ice Attack XT and have always filled my case 1/2 up site glass with full syn.

Chain stretched that once when I started to turn it on after easy break in mileage. Since then it has not stretched again even while increasing hp with a more powerful tune 3000 miles ago.

So I Am not sure about your suggested looser chain tension!

1 turn out is still fairly loose and on my sled I run 1.25 turns out for the upcoming season due to rubbing on the center post.
If you start to see premature wear on the top gear bushing with 1 turn out, then replace the chain and upper sprocket, your chain has stretched and the pitch has changed enough to cause chain climb M2C.
You can’t run the hyvo chain as tight as the old silent chains.
Definitely run atleast to the top of the sight glass if not a bit more.
 
1 turn out is still fairly loose and on my sled I run 1.25 turns out for the upcoming season due to rubbing on the center post.
If you start to see premature wear on the top gear bushing with 1 turn out, then replace the chain and upper sprocket, your chain has stretched and the pitch has changed enough to cause chain climb M2C.
You can’t run the hyvo chain as tight as the old silent chains.
Definitely run atleast to the top of the sight glass if not a bit more.

Thanks for that info.

I shall try running it a smidge looser then what I have been, and adding a bit more oil certainly can’t hurt.

Hoping my chain lasts 10K before I need to change it, but shall see.

I do open that chain case multiple times during the season for oil change and inspection.

I too like others, have tried different tension settings with the case open, but I know things change very quickly when running 120s and grabbing that brake. I try not to do that, but you know how that goes
So Yes I do run my chain a bit tight, right or wrong, just feel better about it.
 


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