
twyztid
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After one time of making a mess draining the oil, I decided there has to be a better way. I installed a Stahlbus M12x1.25 drain valve and drilled a 3/4" hole in the belly pan just in front of the lower foot well plate to pass the drain tube up through. The Stahlbus drain valve is very well made (German) and is around $45. There is a ball check in the oil pan fitting and a cap with O-ring on the body for sealing. When you want to drain the oil, you simply remove the cap, pass the tube up through the 3/4 hole in the belly pan, push it in the fitting and lock it in with 1/4 turn. This depresses the ball to allow the oil to flow out. It is best to drain with warm oil.
I also updated the chaincase O-ring to the newer silicone one and I am installing flanged socket head cap screws for the chaincase cover bolts for easier access using a ball end hex driver.
Updated chaincase cover o-ring. Yamaha part #8JP-G7558-02-00
McMaster-Carr part #92235A242
I also updated the chaincase O-ring to the newer silicone one and I am installing flanged socket head cap screws for the chaincase cover bolts for easier access using a ball end hex driver.
Updated chaincase cover o-ring. Yamaha part #8JP-G7558-02-00
McMaster-Carr part #92235A242
RTX
TY 4 Stroke God
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Great post.
Thanks for the info on the valve
Thanks for the info on the valve
rbell14
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I assume the bolt was to replace the difficult ones holding the chain case cover?

twyztid
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Yes, those are the ones.I assume the bolt was to replace the difficult ones holding the chain case cover?


Ulmer also sells a easy drain kit developed by a great member here. I love mine!

twyztid
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Ulmer also sells a easy drain kit developed by a great member here. I love mine!
I have not seen Ulmer's and wasn't aware that he was selling one. I am not selling these so it shouldn't be an issue.


Just pointing it out. TD Max designed the Ulmer setup. Good guy too.I have not seen Ulmer's and wasn't aware that he was selling one. I am not selling these so it shouldn't be an issue.
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