Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Finished the motor mount bolts. Ended up shortening them a little more to 65.5mm since I don’t need washers with the flanged nuts. Weight loss just in motor mount hardware 1.20 lbs.
Old hardware
New
Low point drains. 1/8 NPT steel bungs and 1/8 NPT aluminum plugs. 13.76 grams
All of the tubing can be drained of coolant. Used Yamabond 4 for a thread sealant. Wanted something that would act as a good lubricant on the aluminum threads. I will pressure test again before it goes back in the jig. I angled the one down to try and get it as low as possible in the tube.
28.5 lbs as pictured, still within my target.
Old hardware
New
Low point drains. 1/8 NPT steel bungs and 1/8 NPT aluminum plugs. 13.76 grams
All of the tubing can be drained of coolant. Used Yamabond 4 for a thread sealant. Wanted something that would act as a good lubricant on the aluminum threads. I will pressure test again before it goes back in the jig. I angled the one down to try and get it as low as possible in the tube.
28.5 lbs as pictured, still within my target.
74Nitro
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Great stuff. I hope Yamaha R&D staff and engineers are following this thread....
zx4ever
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Something I would consider is some kind of a diverter valve in case you damage the frame or weld fails. If you could divert the coolant you would not have to be towed home. Just a thought. Carry on its looking good.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Cut up my old cooler and the few extra pieces I had and this is as much cooler as I could get with the material I had. 21.5” long double pass. Just a fuzz over 7 feet of extrusion. Talked my dealer bud who has owned a few turbos and he thought that would be enough extrusion with the running board tubes. Only way to find out is to ride and if it runs hot I’ll add more cooling.
kinger
VIP Member
Ugh, lot of work right there! I think you will be good, I can't remember were you going NA to save weight or keep the turbo powa?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Keeping the turbo.
A few years ago I cut all the extra castings off the block, I think the weight loss was around .75 lbs iirc. I never did finish it so I took last night to do that. Putting it back in the jig tonight.
A few years ago I cut all the extra castings off the block, I think the weight loss was around .75 lbs iirc. I never did finish it so I took last night to do that. Putting it back in the jig tonight.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Not really much else to do for weight loss on the engine. Could get Ti bolts for the starter but not worth the expense. I might get the Gates Power Grip heat shrink hose clamps to replace the hose clamps on the oil and coolant lines. Pretty decent weight loss and cleaner look.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Bought some of the heat shrink hose clamps from the local NAPA. 60% lighter than steel hose clamps. It was 31 grams for the 4 steel clamps I removed and 10.75 grams for 4 PowerGrip clamps. Plus they look a lot cleaner. Not a big weight loss but when it comes to the larger (14) 1” clamps I need for the cooling system there will be a larger loss. Every gram counts.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Finished the last thing I wanted to do on the motor. Replaced the long mismatched throttle body hardware & steel spacers with M5 x 16mm fasteners & aluminum spacers. 34.52g vs 23.78g. Nothing else I can do to save weight on the motor short of Ti bolts.
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kinger
VIP Member
I have never heard of those clamps. Normal heat gun work?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Normal heat gun works fine.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Put the motor back in the frame last night. Going to start working on drivetrain mounting and a brake setup. Plan was to put it on the driveshaft and I need to revisit the caliper mounting and make sure it’s going to work.
Also bought a rear suspension. There was a 153 skid out of a 2018 Hardcore on eBay. Had less than 300 miles on it and has the QS3 float shocks. Price was good, shipping sucked but the used market for any kind of suspension in Alaska sucks more so not much choice there. Need to find a nice used track now.
Also bought a rear suspension. There was a 153 skid out of a 2018 Hardcore on eBay. Had less than 300 miles on it and has the QS3 float shocks. Price was good, shipping sucked but the used market for any kind of suspension in Alaska sucks more so not much choice there. Need to find a nice used track now.
yamadoo
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Nikolai your attention to detail is amazing and educational for those of us without these skills and knowledge . GREAT JOB
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Suspension showed up. Both rails were slightly bent about halfway back, I think it was an honest mistake by the seller that they did not notice. Anyway, I got a sizable refund back so next week I’ll be ordering a set of anodized black Ice Age rails.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Black Ice Age rails are on the way, should be here in a couple days.
Update on the drivetrain. I ordered a hex hub and brake rotor from Wahl Brothers. Will take a few days to lighten the hub like I want and get it fit to the disc. I lightened up my Wilwood PS1 caliper a little and ordered a set of metric counter bore bits so I can counter bore holes and use shorter cap screws whenever possible to save more weight. Going to counter bore the starter holes and brake caliper holes to start with.
One big hold up was the secondary clutch. With the clutch bottomed out on the splines of the jackshaft and aligned with the primary clutch, it forced the chaincase off the frame further than I’d like. I was going to leave it that way to save money but ultimately couldn’t get myself to do it. Not a single machine shop in Alaska wanted to touch it but I got ahold of Terry at Thunder Products and he’s going to do it for me, I’m mailing the sheave out on Monday. Removing 8mm of splines and 5mm of shaft off the back of the inner sheave so when the clutch is open the moveable sheave will be flush with the shaft. This will allow me to move the chaincase back tight against the frame and get the secondary further on the jackshaft so I get my correct offset.
Will update with pics as things come together more. It’s been slow getting the driveshaft brake and clutch thing figured out.
Update on the drivetrain. I ordered a hex hub and brake rotor from Wahl Brothers. Will take a few days to lighten the hub like I want and get it fit to the disc. I lightened up my Wilwood PS1 caliper a little and ordered a set of metric counter bore bits so I can counter bore holes and use shorter cap screws whenever possible to save more weight. Going to counter bore the starter holes and brake caliper holes to start with.
One big hold up was the secondary clutch. With the clutch bottomed out on the splines of the jackshaft and aligned with the primary clutch, it forced the chaincase off the frame further than I’d like. I was going to leave it that way to save money but ultimately couldn’t get myself to do it. Not a single machine shop in Alaska wanted to touch it but I got ahold of Terry at Thunder Products and he’s going to do it for me, I’m mailing the sheave out on Monday. Removing 8mm of splines and 5mm of shaft off the back of the inner sheave so when the clutch is open the moveable sheave will be flush with the shaft. This will allow me to move the chaincase back tight against the frame and get the secondary further on the jackshaft so I get my correct offset.
Will update with pics as things come together more. It’s been slow getting the driveshaft brake and clutch thing figured out.
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