Nyper build thread

[zx4ever]

Just an fyi for you I found my old nytro rad and fan with plastic shroud on it and weighed it at 4lb 2 oz. Filled with water it is 5 lb 2oz. I think you got it figured now anyway. Just wanted to document those numbers on your thread

 

[Nikolai]

Thank you. It would take a fairly large radiator to eliminate the cooler. I thought I remember the short track Nytros not cooling very well.

 

[kinger]

I tried every cooling option, the u cooler is the lightest. Think about Evan’s waterless coolant, it’s lighter and doesn’t expand like coolant so you can save the expansion tank weight.

 

[74Nitro]

I know it's too late now, but if you could have found the exchangers from a wrecked Winder MTX, it would have been a very good solution.
The front exchanger also eliminates the need for the rear engine support as it carries them.

https://www.cyclepartsnation.com/oemparts/a/yam/5aba84e587a86612183a2340/radiator-hose

 

[Nikolai]

That would work good for version 2.0, I’d have to see what the engine placement looked like. I moved the engine towards to the chaincase as much as I could on this build to keep it narrow.

I did one last order for Ti bolts from Race Ti in the UK today. Got the rest of the bolts I’ve been wanting. 8mm upper a-arm bolts, 8mm shock bolts, 8mm inner tie rod bolts & nuts, 8mm engine mount & starter bolts, 8mm steering post bushing bolts and a couple other things.

 

[Nikolai]

Installed the drivers tonight. Flipped them around from how I ran them last time so the new side of the teeth would be driving the track. Also swapped them side for side so the one that was in exhaust last time wouldn’t be this time.

Design flaw. I thought I had measured everything out but clearly was off somewhere.

That was with the drivers centered in the windows. I needed about 1/4” more total. I pressed each driver inward another 1/8” and then cut 1/8” of plastic off.

Because of how tight everything is, I have to install the driveshaft first and then the chaincase.

Hope to the have rear suspension in tomorrow night.

If I ever finish this thing I’ll eventually get the newer style drivers. Seems like that would be less strain on the track windows.

 

[kinger]

What are you doing for wiring? I have some ideas for solid state relay and a Amplink PDM if you need some ideas.

 

[Nikolai]

What are you doing for wiring? I have some ideas for solid state relay and a Amplink PDM if you need some ideas.

I honestly have not put much thought into it. I have the gutted harness from my original sled that was pretty stripped down but it had a lot of splices. I have another factory harness and my plan was to gut it same as the original but do a cleaner job.

 

[Nikolai]

Got the suspension in and track tensioned. It’s a Polaris series 6 155x2.6 and 8-tooth drivers.

I was worried I’d have to trim the paddles around the bearing lock collar but I ended up with more clearance than I had anticipated.

 

[kinger]

I honestly have not put much thought into it. I have the gutted harness from my original sled that was pretty stripped down but it had a lot of splices. I have another factory harness and my plan was to gut it same as the original but do a cleaner job.

I can put more thoughts down later today but around power what are you thinking for relay fuses etc? Is the stock ECU heavy, wiring heavy? My build I’ll probably use a MaxxEcu mini for weight savings and amazing capabilities. Might even pony up for tefzel wiring. Compared to my apex oem wiring I’ll save around 15 lbs! Crazy!

 

[Nikolai]

I remember the factory harness being fairly light after I gutted it, I’ll weight it tonight.