There is something similar from Loctite aswell. The Loctite 660 which sounds like it could work according to the description. An activator is needed for it, other than that it's just apply and assemble.
But I guess it can be hard to take appart (if needed). Hopefully the 648 will hold, and even if it would break loose once a year it's easy to redo. Time will tell.
But I guess it can be hard to take appart (if needed). Hopefully the 648 will hold, and even if it would break loose once a year it's easy to redo. Time will tell.
towerrigger
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Took mine apart last night. The bearing that holds the output shaft is toast. There is a lot of side to side play on it. I will pick up a new bearing and install. There was a lot of play in the clutch, hard to tell if it was from the bearing or the shaft.
Straight_up_XTX
Pro
I used the red permatex gel and mine has failed also.
Ran quiet in the shop and rattled after the first ride.
It was worth a try for sure... I'm scared to try JB weld though.
Ran quiet in the shop and rattled after the first ride.
It was worth a try for sure... I'm scared to try JB weld though.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Loctite does have some 2 part mixes, I have used them at my work. I wouldn't use them personally...they are too good. Stuff hardens like glass and stinks too terrible lol. I would be too worried with disassembly.
If your bearing was wore, I bet that would cause even more in/out movement of the clutch and put much more stress on the splines causing them to fail quicker. My bearing is in good shape with little in/out movement before I applied the 648.
I hope the 648 lasts, its so nice with no rattle. When I put on my 300km i did a lot of "snaps" of the throttle from dead stop to try and load it the best I could and all seems fine so far. If we get some snow for my 1300km trip it will ultimately be the true test! Time will tell..
If your bearing was wore, I bet that would cause even more in/out movement of the clutch and put much more stress on the splines causing them to fail quicker. My bearing is in good shape with little in/out movement before I applied the 648.
I hope the 648 lasts, its so nice with no rattle. When I put on my 300km i did a lot of "snaps" of the throttle from dead stop to try and load it the best I could and all seems fine so far. If we get some snow for my 1300km trip it will ultimately be the true test! Time will tell..
Supa Dexta
Expert
..Wait, so why aren't you all just going back to the original product 'thats held up a couple of years'... instead of trying to find something new.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I had loctite readily available...and I personally don't know where to buy it up here in Canada, that's my only excuse...
But that is a good point, I kinda forgot about it...if my 648 breaks I will try that.
But that is a good point, I kinda forgot about it...if my 648 breaks I will try that.
Supa Dexta
Expert
I passed a wurth truck on the highwy the other day.. I should have flagged them over and asked questions.. haha
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
My loctite cracked free today. I saw a couple other Nytros on the trail today and some rattle worse than others. My is by far the worst I have heard. I think the slop in my splines is so excessive the loctite just cant hold the gap. I give up for this year, but I will see about getting some wurth and trying it over the summer or after my sled trip. I guess I get to enjoy a 6 day sled trip listening to it rattle away... 
towerrigger
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Installed a new bearing and used the loctite 648. The loctite lasted roughly 200km today. Was super quiet upon startup. Gradually got worse and by the end of the day it was just as loud as before. I guess the next step is to try the wurth. Sounded so nice when I first started it up.
fxnytroxtx
Guest
I used wurth and it failed.
towerrigger
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
fxnytroxtx said:
Did you use the high strength or just the regular bearing retainer?
fxnytroxtx
Guest
towerrigger said:
High strength
natedawgedog
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I just think there is to much play, force, and vibration in the spline shaft and any amount of loctite or wurth isnt going to help with this.
so far how many people have got their clutch rattle to go away permenently? and if you did how many miles and how hard did you run it?
also a question for the people that have tried this and it failed did you notice where the loctite or wurth migrated too after it failed to do its job? I would hate to see someone's bearings inside the engine's crank end up failing and causing motor damage.
so far how many people have got their clutch rattle to go away permenently? and if you did how many miles and how hard did you run it?
also a question for the people that have tried this and it failed did you notice where the loctite or wurth migrated too after it failed to do its job? I would hate to see someone's bearings inside the engine's crank end up failing and causing motor damage.
Mtnviper
Vendor
I put a dial indicator on mine and measured .018" of backlash when measured at the outer edge of the primary clutch. The actual or true back lash at the splines would be much smaller when measured at the crankshaft. This is because the farther away from the center point of the crankshaft you get the larger the dial indicator reading will be.
There probably is a mathematical equation that could be used to calculate the actual sline clearance based off the diameter of the PTO splines and radius distance from the center point from which the back lash measurement was taken.
I agree with Beenba some are louder then others and it probably has to do with normal machining tolerances. I know mine has sounded the same since day 1 and it isn't hurting anything. It would be nice if I could make it quieter though. I thought about buying a new PTO shaft to see if maybe it would tighten up the back lash some, but then there is the risk that it wouldn't make a difference. In the mean time there is snow in the mountains and I'll just keep enjoy riding it
Natedawgedog,
The loctite is pretty well contained with in the PTO bearing assembly. I didn't want to chance it though, so I pulled mine apart and cleaned out the old loctite.
There probably is a mathematical equation that could be used to calculate the actual sline clearance based off the diameter of the PTO splines and radius distance from the center point from which the back lash measurement was taken.
I agree with Beenba some are louder then others and it probably has to do with normal machining tolerances. I know mine has sounded the same since day 1 and it isn't hurting anything. It would be nice if I could make it quieter though. I thought about buying a new PTO shaft to see if maybe it would tighten up the back lash some, but then there is the risk that it wouldn't make a difference. In the mean time there is snow in the mountains and I'll just keep enjoy riding it
Natedawgedog,
The loctite is pretty well contained with in the PTO bearing assembly. I didn't want to chance it though, so I pulled mine apart and cleaned out the old loctite.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Just thought I put this out there to see if anyone noticed something similar:
Last year, my MTX rattled like can of marbles right out of the box (brand new). It had the stock 8FS Yami arms (for low elevation).
This year I installed Ulmer's clutch kit which includes STM's Supertip arms and right on the first ride it was quieter. Some noise came back after a few 100km's but its much better.
The only thing I can see is the stock Yami arm weight (rivet's) are balanced side to side whereas on the Supertips, you add weight on one side first and then the other if you need it. In my case the weight is mostly on one side.
Maybe this imbalance causes the weights to "twist" along the bolt axis just enough to prevent some of the rattle.
Anyway, not sure on this but if anyone else with supertips wants to try it, and if you have space move more weight to one side instead of keeping it perfectly balanced.
Yeah, I'm sure it will shorten the life of the arms a bit, but I am not about to change them if it is helping the rattle problem...
OTM
Last year, my MTX rattled like can of marbles right out of the box (brand new). It had the stock 8FS Yami arms (for low elevation).
This year I installed Ulmer's clutch kit which includes STM's Supertip arms and right on the first ride it was quieter. Some noise came back after a few 100km's but its much better.
The only thing I can see is the stock Yami arm weight (rivet's) are balanced side to side whereas on the Supertips, you add weight on one side first and then the other if you need it. In my case the weight is mostly on one side.
Maybe this imbalance causes the weights to "twist" along the bolt axis just enough to prevent some of the rattle.
Anyway, not sure on this but if anyone else with supertips wants to try it, and if you have space move more weight to one side instead of keeping it perfectly balanced.
Yeah, I'm sure it will shorten the life of the arms a bit, but I am not about to change them if it is helping the rattle problem...
OTM
