**Official Clutch Rattle Removal Thread w/ Pics**

[rogerg]

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[rogerg]

Yes, to no avail. I actually ground down the length of my original, stock clutch pins, as you mentioned, but it didn't help.

I ultimately discovered that it wasn't the primary clutch internals that were rattling on on my Vector. It was the PTO stub shaft splines.

There are two types of rattles associated with these sleds:

1) Clutch component rattle
2) PTO stub shaft rattle

While the quiet clutch kits, mentioned in this thread, may help internal rattle (spider, rollers, etc.), they do nothing for PTO stub shaft rattle.

Scroll back to post #242 and view the videos.

Yep, saw the videos. Will try o-rings, but will leave any major surgery to when it's necessary.

 

[Ian Ferron]

Well. I have tried several Wurth and Loctite products as described.
Nothing lasted!
Today i took a grinder and grinded a groove in both the crank and hub, together making a hole.
This hole was perfect to pressfit a splint. Had to press the hub back on the crank.
This is now a solution only consisting on metal parts, so i hope it will last!
Now it purrs like a kitten!

How did you fix held up?

 

[jre1960]

Hi,
I think it is quite "individually" for each machine, some have no or very little rattle from the primary clutch and some machines sound like you have a diesel engine under the hood so I'm pretty sure it depends on the tolerances in the splince between the crankshaft and the cluth hub.

I have a Nytro 2010 xtx and a RS Venture 2016 TF. The Nytro rattles at idle, but becomes "silent" at higher revs, while my Venture rattles more or less all the time (I have chosen not to fix it "yet") ...

But this is what I did for my RS Venture 2006 to get it "quiet".
I tested everything suggested, but nothing helped, at least not for any longer time so I chose to go the "hard" way.

I removed the hub from the crankshaft and added small weld spots on the side that NOT takes the load on the splince on the hub, very important that it is not on the side that absorbs the power.
After approx. four hours filing(maybe because I used a MIG, recommend a TIG) with a hand file to make the hub fit to the crankshaft with a very, very small play, remember that metal expands when it gets hotter, I assembled everything, started up the engine and the engine span like a cat, with the clutch on .

I didn't keep that machine, but I drove approx. 1000 km after this "fix" and it was still "spinning like a cat" on idle when I sold it.

 

[Hooray!]

I did the SB silent clutch kit on my Nytro, night and day at idle. Sounds tight, no diesel rattle and has been good last two seasons. It was tight getting the plastic washers in place but great inexpensive solution. Sound great now!

 

[North Bay Ned 691]

I did the SB silent clutch kit on my Nytro, night and day at idle. Sounds tight, no diesel rattle and has been good last two seasons. It was tight getting the plastic washers in place but great inexpensive solution. Sound great now!

 

[North Bay Ned 691]

What is their contact info? Will they ship to Ontario, Canada?

 

[Mooseman]

Just emailed them. For a Comfort Clutch kit which includes the Quiet Clutch Kit, it's $32USD. It's probably less for just the Quiet Clutch Kit. I need this. The clutch is both too grabby and sounds like a diesel. I'll try this before doing anything drastic to the stub shaft but it has visible slop. But I have a possible blown head gasket I have to deal with first.
http://www.schmidtbrosmotorsports.com

They don't list a kit for the VK though but I would imagine it's the same kit.

 

[74Nitro]

I had a Nytro in and owner said clutch was noisy. I put new cam sliders on the 0-ring side along with new o-rings. Also was able to fit the .003 Yamaha spider shims in also. Owner sent a text and said it was much quieter.

 

[Hooray!]

What is their contact info? Will they ship to Ontario, Canada?

Sorry for delay, next thread down has URL... All the SB products I have are awesome, fair priced, yes perhaps stock parts somewhere if you knew the SKUs but Chris puts in the time to make Nytro kits! I would rather support people like that. I did the quiet clutch kit and the primary clutch kit with new smaller diameter rollers and lighter spring for the lower rpm engagement, work great. I also did his spindle bolts (tighter), steering shim, block off plate for tunnel, air box breathers, rear suspension shims and collars, all detailed in my front end + thread as I rebuilt my Nytro.

 

[Michael Lloyd]

Had read so much about the SB product, I ordered the Comfort Kit last week. Can't wait to install it on my Nytro.

 

[gkvidera]

Instead of removing the stub shaft with a slide hammer type of action (this can damage the balls in the bearings), I made a puller out of a piece of half inch thick steel plate that is about 7" long and about 3" wide. I drilled a hole in the center big enough for the clutch bolt to pass through. So once you have the 4x 10mm bearing retainer bolts out and the 2x 12mm case bolts on either side of the bearing retainer loosened, I screwed the bolt with the plate onto the stub shaft, then cut a couple pieces of wood about 5 5/8" long (equal lengths) and placed them under either side of the bearing retainer against the flat spots on crankcase where the halves join. I then simply started to screw in the clutch bolt which pulled the stub shaft with bearing retainer straight out of the case. I also found that the bearing was a little rough. This would be a good time to replace the 6307RU bearing or regrease it (don't use too much grease though as it will cause the bearing to heat up and fail)

How did you ensure the shaft assembly was timed correctly with the balancer gear?

 

[Sevey]

the splines on the shaft have a certain pattern that can only go on one way. Thus ensuring crank shaft sensor (I think) is aligned.
As you mate the stub shaft to crank shaft, you slowly rotate it till they mesh and slide on to one another.

MS

 

[gkvidera]

Instead of removing the stub shaft with a slide hammer type of action (this can damage the balls in the bearings), I made a puller out of a piece of half inch thick steel plate that is about 7" long and about 3" wide. I drilled a hole in the center big enough for the clutch bolt to pass through. So once you have the 4x 10mm bearing retainer bolts out and the 2x 12mm case bolts on either side of the bearing retainer loosened, I screwed the bolt with the plate onto the stub shaft, then cut a couple pieces of wood about 5 5/8" long (equal lengths) and placed them under either side of the bearing retainer against the flat spots on crankcase where the halves join. I then simply started to screw in the clutch bolt which pulled the stub shaft with bearing retainer straight out of the case. I also found that the bearing was a little rough. This would be a good time to replace the 6307RU bearing or regrease it (don't use too much grease though as it will cause the bearing to heat up and fail)

Did you loctite the shaft and if so di the noise go away?