dutchie
Pro
and yes Bill,
a small bottle will do for sure
a small bottle will do for sure
Mtnviper
Vendor
dutchie said:
It will be interesting to see if it quiets the sled down during low speed tree riding as well!
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Glad to hear dutchie! May your ears be in peace.
MOUNTAIN VMAX4
Pro
Sleeve Retainer
I just did this earlier today I did not loosen the bolts marked with yellow on the first page and the stub shaft came out pretty easy, I used Permatex sleeve retainer looked like a similar product with about 3000 psi shear strength. Going to try out on Sunday. I forgot to push the seal back towards the bearing on the stub shaft it looks as if when you install it will automatically push the seal out that direction. I read the instrutcions once or twice and then went and did it but did not have the instructions right there. I reinstalled with a little black rtv to prevent water as there was a bit of rust where shown on first page.
I have my fingers crossed!!!!
I just did this earlier today I did not loosen the bolts marked with yellow on the first page and the stub shaft came out pretty easy, I used Permatex sleeve retainer looked like a similar product with about 3000 psi shear strength. Going to try out on Sunday. I forgot to push the seal back towards the bearing on the stub shaft it looks as if when you install it will automatically push the seal out that direction. I read the instrutcions once or twice and then went and did it but did not have the instructions right there. I reinstalled with a little black rtv to prevent water as there was a bit of rust where shown on first page.
I have my fingers crossed!!!!
MOUNTAIN VMAX4
Pro
Started it
I started it with the covers off in the shop and I could not even hear a rattle at all now very happy, I need to get a test ride now to make sure it is gone for good!!! Thanks to all who did the research on this mod, now I can hear my sled sit and purr at idle. And Permatex Sleeve Retainer works!!
I started it with the covers off in the shop and I could not even hear a rattle at all now very happy, I need to get a test ride now to make sure it is gone for good!!! Thanks to all who did the research on this mod, now I can hear my sled sit and purr at idle. And Permatex Sleeve Retainer works!!
rough rider
Expert
rattle
Now that everyone who did the clutch mod has some riding time in are the clutches still quite???
Now that everyone who did the clutch mod has some riding time in are the clutches still quite???
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I am also interested to hear how some people made out..
An update with me. My bottle of 680 was also bad and never fully cured (just like the 640 I originally used). I threw them both in the garbage. Thus I cannot confirm whether 640 or 680 will work with a new non-expired bottle.
But I ordered a new loctite bottle of 648 from McMaster-Carr. The small 15ml one was more than enough and only 15 bucks.
I installed it and let it cure for a full week (we had no snow) in a heated shop.
I put on 300km last weekend and the clutch is still quite as a mouse. I love it, it is so quiet all I can hear now is the cams/lifters in the engine.
So I can confirm that 648 cured for a week will work. I put a generous amount on the splines also (much more than in my pic like I said).
In theory, 640, 680 or 648 should all work, their properties are all very similar, just different cure times. If you let it cure for 3+ days your fine.
This would be a good summer project for a lot of folks who don't have heat, and will give them a full 3+ days for curing...or 6 months
An update with me. My bottle of 680 was also bad and never fully cured (just like the 640 I originally used). I threw them both in the garbage. Thus I cannot confirm whether 640 or 680 will work with a new non-expired bottle.
But I ordered a new loctite bottle of 648 from McMaster-Carr. The small 15ml one was more than enough and only 15 bucks.
I installed it and let it cure for a full week (we had no snow) in a heated shop.
I put on 300km last weekend and the clutch is still quite as a mouse.
I love it, it is so quiet all I can hear now is the cams/lifters in the engine. So I can confirm that 648 cured for a week will work. I put a generous amount on the splines also (much more than in my pic like I said).
In theory, 640, 680 or 648 should all work, their properties are all very similar, just different cure times. If you let it cure for 3+ days your fine.
This would be a good summer project for a lot of folks who don't have heat, and will give them a full 3+ days for curing...or 6 months
I also used Loctite 648 and let it cure a day before starting. And quiet it was!
After that the sled stood still for a couple of weeks until we got enough snow to drive.
I have only driven about 200 km, but it's still quiet. This is with a mcx240 kit.
Big thanks to Beenba and the Norwegians
After that the sled stood still for a couple of weeks until we got enough snow to drive.
I have only driven about 200 km, but it's still quiet. This is with a mcx240 kit.
Big thanks to Beenba and the Norwegians
Mtnviper
Vendor
Mine has started to rattle again and after checking it the Loctite 680 lost it's adhesion. It did cure ok but after about 50 miles it broke free. I could actually tell when it broke free as the sled was quieter while riding a slower speeds/tree boondocking also.
I did clean it really well with brake cleaner and acetone (spelling), then let it cure in a heated shop for about 4 days with a wrench and weight on the clutch bolt to hold it in the "thrust" position.
One thing I noticed about my sled is that it seems to have a fair amount of back lash in the PTO splines. I've been meaning to put a dial indicator on it to measure the back lash. Its possible that the clearance in splines exceeds the specifications for which the 680 was designed for, which could explain why the 680 lost its adhesion.
One thing for sure though, the source of the rattle is due to the back lash/clearence in the PTO/crank splines as the noise was 100% gone while the 680 was still holding.
I did clean it really well with brake cleaner and acetone (spelling), then let it cure in a heated shop for about 4 days with a wrench and weight on the clutch bolt to hold it in the "thrust" position.
One thing I noticed about my sled is that it seems to have a fair amount of back lash in the PTO splines. I've been meaning to put a dial indicator on it to measure the back lash. Its possible that the clearance in splines exceeds the specifications for which the 680 was designed for, which could explain why the 680 lost its adhesion.
One thing for sure though, the source of the rattle is due to the back lash/clearence in the PTO/crank splines as the noise was 100% gone while the 680 was still holding.
fxnytroxtx
Guest
Well guys mine is back to rattling again 
, but it sure was nice while it lasted don't know what to do. Prolly gonna try locktite
, but it sure was nice while it lasted don't know what to do. Prolly gonna try locktite
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
@Mtnviper. That is what my 680 did also. Only lasted a couple laps around my shop on the grass. I figured my bottle was bad (i did a bench test and it didn't cure properly also). I think you are correct the play could just be too large in some cases and the 680 cant deal with that big of a gap.
@fxnytroxtx. What did u use?
I guess we are safe to assume the 680 doesn't work. That's 2 cases it failed. Not sure about the 640, maybe some other guys have used it and can chime in.
The only saving grace is Adde (200km) and mine (300km) 648 is holding up well. My sled is stock and his has the 240 kit so that sounds pretty promising.
648 does have a slightly higher shear strength..maybe its just high enough to do the trick.
Or maybe you need to give it a full week or more to let it cure fully. Since we dont know the exact play in the splines, I could only estimate how long it would take to cure.
I have a 1200km sled trip planned near the end of Feburary and I will definitely report back.
@fxnytroxtx. What did u use?
I guess we are safe to assume the 680 doesn't work. That's 2 cases it failed. Not sure about the 640, maybe some other guys have used it and can chime in.
The only saving grace is Adde (200km) and mine (300km) 648 is holding up well. My sled is stock and his has the 240 kit so that sounds pretty promising.
648 does have a slightly higher shear strength..maybe its just high enough to do the trick.
Or maybe you need to give it a full week or more to let it cure fully. Since we dont know the exact play in the splines, I could only estimate how long it would take to cure.
I have a 1200km sled trip planned near the end of Feburary and I will definitely report back.
fxnytroxtx
Guest
I used wurth bearing retainer high strength and it failed. I guess all try 648 locktite.
SwedishManiac
Veteran
Maybe general Epoxy glue works? u know the 2 in 1 tubes.
My father uses that stuff on most trucks with worn splines on the rear axle flange and it seems to work great, started doing that for 7 or 8 years ago and none has loosened since then.
If it can handle this it might work on sleds to i guess?
(A direct Translation of the name on these would be ''Thunder Construction'')
My father uses that stuff on most trucks with worn splines on the rear axle flange and it seems to work great, started doing that for 7 or 8 years ago and none has loosened since then.
If it can handle this it might work on sleds to i guess?
(A direct Translation of the name on these would be ''Thunder Construction'')
1975FA
Expert
Has anyone tried JB weld?
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
If the 648 failed, I was actually going to think about JB weld or another 2 part epoxy. The benefit of using a 2 part epoxy is it will cure with or without the presence of oxygen. Would fill the splines very well and wouldn't run that bad either.
This is one of the reasons I let my loctite cure for so long - they say it cures in the absence of oxygen, but if the splines are so loose it may not cure 100% (or take a long time to cure) because of the big gap with lots of air/oxygen around it. You wont have this problem with JB Weld
I would say JB weld should work well, my only concern being disassembly. I think that stuff needs up to 600degF to crack it free....although the loctite is around 400 so not to big of a difference!
This is one of the reasons I let my loctite cure for so long - they say it cures in the absence of oxygen, but if the splines are so loose it may not cure 100% (or take a long time to cure) because of the big gap with lots of air/oxygen around it. You wont have this problem with JB Weld
I would say JB weld should work well, my only concern being disassembly. I think that stuff needs up to 600degF to crack it free....although the loctite is around 400 so not to big of a difference!
