Prav
Pro
I am going to top off the chain oil and check the air box before we ride tomorrow. I'm hoping if it's the oil pipe and gromets that I can make it an offseason job and make it through the rest of the year just topping off the chain oil every now and again. It's been an issue all season (450 miles) and there is still about a 1/4" of oil showing on the tip of the dipstick. It must be a pretty small leak where ever it is. I will keep an eye on both the chain oil and the air box while I ride the next 4 days. Thanks for the help guys.
Prav
Pro
The oil drip continued to get worse after the trip. I had a drip stain on the floor about a foot in diameter. The job wasn't too bad. You need to remove the battery and brake assembly to pull the chain case cover. Once the cover is pulled and the gears are removed... the oil pipe and grommets are pretty easy. You remove one bolt with two seals around it and pull the oil pipe and grommet out. The new oil pipe is much more sturdy and it's about 1/4" longer. I'm assuming it's longer so the oil runs farther away from the problem area between the frame and reverse assembly. This reverse setup is very strange. There's a gap between the reverse housing and the frame which makes no sense. Anyway... all new parts have been installed. I hope this takes care of the oil leaking down by the heat exchanger on the inside of the frame and tunnel.


karl
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Nice to know it can be changed from inside the chain case, rather than having to get in between the casting and the reverse housing. 



Nice job.Thanks for follow up.
Thanks for that detaild description, I just found a oilspil under mine to at the same place you discribe.
But then I dont have to wory to much, that I have to disassamble so much to fix the problem .
But then I dont have to wory to much, that I have to disassamble so much to fix the problem .

Prav
Pro
I got home today and noticed a few new drips under the sled (it hasn't been run since the oil pipe replacement). I'm hoping this is just some leftover oil running down the back of the heat exchanger. If not, it will be a bit more work to get to the reverse assembly.
What were the parts you replaced?
Was it that in the previous post mentioned, no 72 73 74?
My snowmobile has begun to leak more and more, so I must do something about the problem.
Was it that in the previous post mentioned, no 72 73 74?
My snowmobile has begun to leak more and more, so I must do something about the problem.
phaze5
TY 4 Stroke Guru
is it possible to drain all your fluid out by it leaking this way??????????
granted my frame has a ding but the seal was in good shape, but i seen the other day it was leaking so after reading this i can assume orhope this is what it is , thanks for the heads up op
granted my frame has a ding but the seal was in good shape, but i seen the other day it was leaking so after reading this i can assume orhope this is what it is , thanks for the heads up op
xt_gt
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
i ran mine leaking (not knowing) all last season. till the snow melted, i noticed the oil where the sled is kept. checked the dipstick & had 3/8" showing still. very little drained out & luckily the gears didn't show any heat (blueing).
it's not the chaincase cover seal it's the grommets & oil tube that cross through the subframe into the reverse housing. correct me if i'm wrong Prav. dealer did all my work.
it's not the chaincase cover seal it's the grommets & oil tube that cross through the subframe into the reverse housing. correct me if i'm wrong Prav. dealer did all my work.
Prav
Pro
You can run your sled with this issue as it's a slow leak. I would suggest checking your chain oil before each ride though if you're going to make it a summer project. Mine went from full to barely touching the dipstick in one day (200 miles). The leak is exactly as explained above. The reverse housing can be mounted off center and if the sled frame and the reverse housing don't line up the gromet will either tear or a gap will be created where the oil leaks down the inside of the frame down by the heat exchanger. I ordered the two gaskets that go around the oil screw (basically just two washers), a new oil screw, new oil pipe and new gromet. The updated oil pipe is built sturdier and is about 1/4" longer to push the oil farther into the reverse housing. The gromet actually looks to be a bit shorter than the old one.. why? I don't know! The key is to make sure the reverse housing and the frame line up PERFECTLY. I just eyeballed mine and it looked pretty good. I still have a very small oil leak. I'm probably going to pull it back apart and loosen the reverse assembly and line it up perfectly. Don't make that mistake.....
phaze5
TY 4 Stroke Guru
i looked at mine and it appears to be leaking from the back of the tunnel and a little farther forward on the chaincase, not where i cracked my frame, so i guess thta good news,
now to make ya wonder, is it possible to drain out and wreck your gear drive,
i guess it was easy to point to a scratch and say this is what did it instead of the actual culprit,and once again thanks yamaha
now to make ya wonder, is it possible to drain out and wreck your gear drive,
i guess it was easy to point to a scratch and say this is what did it instead of the actual culprit,and once again thanks yamaha
yam177
TY 4 Stroke Master
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Yes I ran the oil out of the Phazer Mod at this last race due to a bad seal. Chewed up the chain and gears
Prav
Pro
If it's the oil pipe leaking... it won't run dry by just sitting. If you check your oil before each ride you should be ok. It's the transfer from the main chain housing to the reverse housing that causes the leak. The oil is slung from the chain and caught by the oil pipe only when the sled's in motion.
phaze5
TY 4 Stroke Guru
i hear ya now, i basically spent 600 bucks that yammi should of payed for, lol
i have a good idea of whats happening i actually went and looked at it, i do appereciate you guys info.
i have a good idea of whats happening i actually went and looked at it, i do appereciate you guys info.
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