Pilot 6.9 ski's installed

[Mighty]

Very nice write up Dan. The mods need to make this a sticky.........

 

[69redmach!]

What is the difference between 5.7s and 6.9's please. I am leaning towards Curves but this thread is turning my head a bit. I am frankly worried that there are so many other Pilots out there that the hunting and darting may be bothersome.

I installed the 5.7 with 6" Shapers in the middle and the stock 4" on the outside. I'm super happy, sled now rails through the corners and doesn't dart.

 

[krm]

I installed the 5.7 with 6" Shapers in the middle and the stock 4" on the outside. I'm super happy, sled now rails through the corners and doesn't dart.

Yes,but the 6.9s make the sw float in powder and still make the front end feel light .

 

[69redmach!]

Yes,but the 6.9s make the sw float in powder and still make the front end feel light .

I don't ride off trail so not an issue.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Thanks for the write up Dan... any idea if a pair of 5.7 pilots a worthwhile upgrade? I can get a set off a friend for next to nothing

I ran 5.7s on both my apex for 8 yrs and alsomy cat procross turbo for 2 seasons, they do offer the same light steering effort as the 6.9s.

The thing I like about the 6.9 being wider, is not only will they bring the front end up and make it playful in the deep snow, but the unique spacing between the carbides is much more rare on trail, then the ultra popular 5.7 that just about every RUT you will follow has. Tons of sleds out there run 5.7s , So that is important. Also the 6.9 has that small INNER lip that the 5.7 does not have at all.

On my 1200, when i changed from stock 5.7 to 6.9....we had some fresh snow overnight, so my lake was not packed down at all and it was about 15 inches of deep powder.....normally the 5.7 on a 4s heavier nosed sled would just plow through that snow, but with 6.9 it would literally just get right on top and i could hammer down and it feels like your sled is doing a wheelie the entire lakes length....that was when i knew the wider ski was very unique to what I had always been used to on a 4s. The wider ski can give the 4s a 2s like feel in the powder when speeds come up.

I realize there are lots of used 5.7s out there quite cheap, but for the cost NEW, the 6.9 is close to the 5.7 and typically HALF(if not cheaper) the cost of ANY aftermarket ski. I find them to be a bargain.

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Great write up. I added 6.9's to my viper last year and love them, although I cut the entire ridge off the bottom of the rubbers. I can definitely see why your way would be better I might have to order a new set of rubbers. Although do you think a set of doo rubbers would slap right on and work?

When I tried DOO rubbers on previous sleds, they were way thicker....I assume similar findings on the SW but did not try the DOO rubbers on this SW.

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

What is the difference between 5.7s and 6.9's please. I am leaning towards Curves but this thread is turning my head a bit. I am frankly worried that there are so many other Pilots out there that the hunting and darting may be bothersome.

The 6.9s measure 6 -3/4" wide in total. As I said, They have a unique spacing between carbides and differ from the ultra popular 5.7s .

IMO every curve setup Ive tried had a far heavier steering effort, not to mention the price.

Dan

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[ROCKERDAN]

I don't ride off trail so not an issue.

I dont either ... But I run lakes, and there is always a morning that there will be fresh snow....and wow does the 6.9 feel amazing when hitting 80+mph in deep pow....5.7 just plows thru and wont get on top.

Not to mention they dart less as they are unique to most all other ski patterns.

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I installed the 5.7 with 6" Shapers in the middle and the stock 4" on the outside. I'm super happy, sled now rails through the corners and doesn't dart.

Yes, any pilot will be huge improvement to the stock SW ski for sure.

Dan

 

[DMCTurbo]

How much does this set-up cost?

 

[**sj**]

Hey old Buddy!

Ahh yes....the time i now have on the SW LE has really been awesome. Now with the new skis and setup suspension, it really shines nicely. While this sled is no lightweight, the suspension is so well sprung(compared to my undersprung doo) that it just takes everything in stride nicely, and nothing seems to phase this front end. Im very impressed with the ZERO feedback through the handlebars(unlike the doo) in which you get ready for a hit and just dont feel it, really nice.

I dove into the setup and underhood after I got skis done...removal of all plastics WITHOUT TOOLS in about 30 seconds is truly amazing(compared to my 2012!) and pure pleasure, even compared to my doo break down with tools. Nice work there YAM engineers. Running her hard last time out on hi speed rail bed, to only feel barely mild clutches and belt was another huge bonus, man o man the 2012 procross is faint bad memory now, this is incredible to see 200+HP with cool clutching. BRP 1200 typically very HOT, albeit belt life has been perfect.

SUSPENSION:

Front: I removed ALL coil tension, down to nothing to get the A arms real close to level. Do this by raising the nose off ground, and loosening the lock and collar, until you start to feel the coil lay loosely in its seat. Make sure its snug enough so it does not pop out of the seat when your skis catch flight. I Set Rebound clicker to middle, and compression clicker to #1. ......It was at #3!

Center: I was not shocked to see the center coil(main and tender) to be at close to MIN, with only about 5 threads showing from softest. Pic below. I increased the center main/tender coil combo to a total length of 7-5/8". I tried 7-3/8" and it was rather harsh on some jigglers with too much feedback thru the seat(still to firm BTW IMO). After a few tests I am guessing the center can even go abit softer, since the pilot skis are so nice and light on effort, so that can be dailed in. I always measure the total length of the COIL SPRING ITSELF, be it one main spring or a main/tender combo, this will give accurate setups from person to person, and leave nothing in question. Talking about threads or other ways of measuring IMO can become too confusing. I also left the center on #1 clicker.

REAR: I left the rear torsions on #1 setting, for me this is still rather firm and shows little transfer, but Tom is bigger then me so he may need to up this. I left the clicker also on #1. I then removed the transfer rod and removed the blocks altogether, then reinstalled the rod. We are working on a custom rod, and I see my dealer(DGs) is also doing same. The SW 137 just needs more transfer period. IMO the straps are too tight and need loosening, I did not do anything here but would be doing this on my own sled, the straps do not look to have alot more length to add however, so would need to look closer at this.

After this, along with the pilots, the sled simply rides great....it feels much lighter riding it then trying to move it around my shop..LOL, just goes to show what good shocks can do for a heavier sled. My 2012 cat rode downright horrible, much of that must have been the seat and the floats, this softer seat is better(but really needs to be softer like an X seat) and the fox Qs3r shocks are so fantastic I just cant say enough about them.

This is one solid feeling high speed monster, and out of the box by far the fastest, quietest most stable sled i think ive rode. Being able to work on one, and ride one....and very soon be radaring it along with power mods(since tom is wanting more!) it is gonna be a fun winter, and will go a long way in helping me decide if I want to dive back into the turbo world, I sure miss the big power.

Dan

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hey Dan,

Did you let the limiter out that last hole thats hidden?

also, did you play with the main shocks rebound?

remove all...then add racewerx block on max transfer..

NOTE: for those who are considering removing the rod...it you have the J T big wheel kit ....with it removed, there is a good chance you will hit and do damage..

 

[WINDER1987]

From getting everything on eBay it doesn't really seem to be cheaper than buying the curves if anything I think curves would be cheaper it looks like it would be $405 for everything plus the cost of the hardware needed. How much easier do these steer I wonder...

 

[Trussman]

RDAY, I've noticed the same thing. You can but a set of curve's for $300, plus another $40 for the mount kit, which you may or may not need.

 

[Cfpdscott]

That's with curves crappy set of carbides. I added 6.9's with shaper 6 inch bars and it cost me $300.00. Then turned around and sold my tuners for $100.00 so in the end it was a $200.00 mod

RDAY, I've noticed the same thing. You can but a set of curve's for $300, plus another $40 for the mount kit, which you may or may not need.

 

[Trussman]

I agree on the crappy bars. The bars specd by Dan will set you back $130, hence the higher price on the 6.9s