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Pilot 6.9 ski's installed

Dan how many miles you got on the 5.7's on the sidewinder? Variety of conditions? Soft snow, groomed trail? Off trail?

Can you offer a direct comparison to the cat ski with the dual offset runners they ship with? In my testing the 5.7 was not as good as the cat ski with dual offset runners. What does your testing indicate here?

How many miles do you have on the sidewinder now to offer setup advice ?
 

1100saber said:
Thanks for the write up Dan... any idea if a pair of 5.7 pilots a worthwhile upgrade? I can get a set off a friend for next to nothing
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If I had my sled running,i could help with that question,as my 5.7 were on my procross turbo and I love them,so I can only think once I get this sled back togeather I will install them on mine,so if you can get them real cheap.just do it,but I do think the 6.9 may be better.
 
I have a brand new set of black Curves (130kms) for sale with 7.5" shapers as well as brand new Tuners if anyone is interested in saving $$?
 
today I bought pilot 5.7s. excellent price at $304.00 CDN includes skags, hoops and all hardware and ski rubbers.

Rocker Dan- during your installation of the 6.9s, is there any reason you couldn't machine the spacers on the existing ski to obtain the 2 7/8" required?...instead of relocating the ski bushing to the outside.

I am planning to install only the center runner, to reduce steering effort. any advantage to install the 2nd runner or will this increase steering effort.

should I install the skidoo rubbers, or do you feel the Yamaha's are better?

I value your opinion as you have much experience with these skis.

Thanks
 
**sj** said:
hey Dan,

Did you let the limiter out that last hole thats hidden?

also, did you play with the main shocks rebound?

remove all...then add racewerx block on max transfer..

NOTE: for those who are considering removing the rod...it you have the J T big wheel kit ....with it removed, there is a good chance you will hit and do damage..
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I did look at the straps just for a second, and saw there was maybe one hole left, but not much to play with, they really run them much tighter then my doo.

Already removed the blocks

Sled is back with owner now, im dealing with my 1200 now trying to make more mph....grrrrr

Dan
 
Moodeyblue said:
today I bought pilot 5.7s. excellent price at $304.00 CDN includes skags, hoops and all hardware and ski rubbers.

Rocker Dan- during your installation of the 6.9s, is there any reason you couldn't machine the spacers on the existing ski to obtain the 2 7/8" required?...instead of relocating the ski bushing to the outside.

I am planning to install only the center runner, to reduce steering effort. any advantage to install the 2nd runner or will this increase steering effort.

should I install the skidoo rubbers, or do you feel the Yamaha's are better?

I value your opinion as you have much experience with these skis.

Thanks
Click to expand...
The outside runner on the doo skis is more to save the ski from wearing out on the outsides .You won't even notice the outside runners with reguards to steering effort .Use the sw rubbers ,the doo ones will be too much work to make then fit .Just install the bushing on the outside ,no need to machine them .
 
Moodeyblue said:
today I bought pilot 5.7s. excellent price at $304.00 CDN includes skags, hoops and all hardware and ski rubbers.

Rocker Dan- during your installation of the 6.9s, is there any reason you couldn't machine the spacers on the existing ski to obtain the 2 7/8" required?...instead of relocating the ski bushing to the outside.

I am planning to install only the center runner, to reduce steering effort. any advantage to install the 2nd runner or will this increase steering effort.

should I install the skidoo rubbers, or do you feel the Yamaha's are better?

I value your opinion as you have much experience with these skis.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Sure you can machine away, or install it many ways....I found the way I did it, and have been doing them onto apex and cat is simple and straightforward and requires no machining or time, and completely reversible.

As I said in the write up several times, running any pilot ski without the outer carbide is asking for trouble, your skis will wear out on that outside edge within a season, then you need new skis. There is only one reason to add the cheapo carbide to the outside, and that is to save the edge from wear. The outer carbide when using small cheap size, adds NOTHING to effort.

Skidoo rubber dont work....You really should read my post, I go into much detail about that.

Dan
 
ROCKERDAN said:
SW main ski Bolt and washers:

Now that we have the OUTER bushing reinserted, we can change the washer setup on the ski bolt install....

We need to do this cause the spacing after the bushing change, still is not exact and additionally, now that we have changed the outer bushing, we want a shoulder INSIDE that outer ski plastic, between the SW spindle and the plastic ski(since the bushing shoulder is now outside) so it does not wear on the plastic.

From outside to inside: Bolt, Bushing, Ski, Washer, SW spindle, Bushing, Ski, Washer, Nut, cotter pin.

Dan

............

View attachment 125290View attachment 125289View attachment 125280 View attachment 125281 View attachment 125282 View attachment 125283
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Really great write up and info here. Well done! I weigh about 200lbs with all my gear on... I have a 137 LTX-DX and I put Curve skis on it and 144 studs, she pushes in the corners and the steering is so heavy my shoulders and neck muscles kill me all weekend. We did 170 miles last weekend and I could not wait to get off the sled! I just ordered some Burgstrom triple 8" carbides and the ski savers/ shim kit. If I don't get good results, I will switch out to my Pilots which I kept from my Apex to your proven results!
 
synaptic3e said:
Really great write up and info here. Well done! I weigh about 200lbs with all my gear on... I have a 137 LTX-DX and I put Curve skis on it and 144 studs, she pushes in the corners and the steering is so heavy my shoulders and neck muscles kill me all weekend. We did 170 miles last weekend and I could not wait to get off the sled! I just ordered some Burgstrom triple 8" carbides and the ski savers/ shim kit. If I don't get good results, I will switch out to my Pilots which I kept from my Apex to your proven results!
Click to expand...
Synaptic, do like rocker dan has posted with suspension setup. Tighten spring, compression on it at #2 remove blocks, put rear torsion springs on softest setting, rear shock spring compression on #2, f'ront suspension is still on stock settiings until I get more seat time. Also, what carbide are you running? Yes, I have the so called junk curve 6" carbide on but sled transfers enough for me and rails around corners now. I have used shaper bars for years now but believe with the weight of the four strokes a round host bar is much better. By the way, AWESOME right up ROCKERDAN!
 
SideHogger said:
Synaptic, do like rocker dan has posted with suspension setup. Tighten spring, compression on it at #2 remove blocks, put rear torsion springs on softest setting, rear shock spring compression on #2, f'ront suspension is still on stock settiings until I get more seat time. Also, what carbide are you running? Yes, I have the so called junk curve 6" carbide on but sled transfers enough for me and rails around corners now. I have used shaper bars for years now but believe with the weight of the four strokes a round host bar is much better. By the way, AWESOME right up ROCKERDAN!
Click to expand...

Hogger,
I have my torsion on soft already, blocks on soft, limit straps all the way out... I have a 137-DX which has no adjustment for compression/rebound. I'm running the Curve 4" carbide as suggested by Cody at Curve...
 
synaptic3e said:
Hogger,
I have my torsion on soft already, blocks on soft, limit straps all the way out... I have a 137-DX which has no adjustment for compression/rebound. I'm running the Curve 4" carbide as suggested by Cody at Curve...
Click to expand...
Take blocks out leave just rod in, turn up front of rear suspension shock spring a lot. I would go extremely tight and see how that works. Cody recommended 6 inch for me. Working great.
 
Just did mine as per Dan's instructions. Was easy and quick to do. Made a huge difference for sure, especially in the powder. To say its like EPS is a reach but it is a huge improvement. Only tooled around in the back have not gone for a proper ride. I do not have my center shock cranked as much as Dan did as it makes it to rough I find. I am half way between Dan's setting and stock. I let me limiter out to the last hole (stock was second from last).
 
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