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Pilot 6.9 ski's installed

Dan,

Thanks for the advice on the TP's.

I've been riding for 25 years, but, never did much myself to my sleds myself. Your posts and the time that you take to do them have really changed my whole outlook. I can follow directions and your's are perfect.

Keep on posting.!

PS Love the new thread on your 2018 50th build. I've got the same sled but am just beginning. I was thinking that a new air intake (the stock filter is junk) and loosening/reinstalling the muffler bolts would be great. Hope to meet you one day on the lakes in Ontario.

Fred
 

UPDATE!

After running with a 1/4" shim for 300 miles, i have already lost the first 1" section of carbide on my brand new bar!! Not nearly as bad as my last set that pretty much burned right through the front where the wear pad is... so we are on the right track! I am going to try 3/8" shims now and see how that works. having 2000 miles with these skis now, the rubbers have really sacked out. will try the 3/8 shim and report back next week.




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Update: when removing my skis, this is what the 1/4” looked like. Sacked out just like the ski rubber. Traced my 1/4” shims onto 3/8” material. Hoping the extra rigidity helps shim the skis higher. Going for a big rip tomorrow. Will update with results. Hoping this does the trick. Otherwise I’ll have to look at modding the actual pilot rubber saddle to fit with the winder.
 

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That is odd.....can you take much more pics close up? I have done many 5.7s and they all look same as 6.9s pocket.

Where did you get those, and do you have a part number? I can try to look them up.

We are heading out soon here, so I wont be back in here today much maybe very late tonight, or Monday latest.

Dan
Dan, I installed skis don't have ability to get better pic. Also dealer gave me a visa receipt and not typical invoice. So all I have is the label off the one ski.
I will have to call dealer and get that info.

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Update: when removing my skis, this is what the 1/4” looked like. Sacked out just like the ski rubber. Traced my 1/4” shims onto 3/8” material. Hoping the extra rigidity helps shim the skis higher. Going for a big rip tomorrow. Will update with results. Hoping this does the trick. Otherwise I’ll have to look at modding the actual pilot rubber saddle to fit with the winder.
The old rev.tunnel protectors also work .The ones that came on them ,then you needed to put taller ones on when studding .
 
I shimmed mine tonight with aluminum, 1”x 2”x 1/4” I went to put it back on and it went on easy so I took it back apart and put another piece of aluminum 3/4” x 3” x 1/8 and stacked it on top of the other shim. It should stay in place and I can visually check it to see if it stays in place. I’m hoping the wider bottom and 1/8” step in back will hold up better than one square. I might make a wedge style or make a ski doo rubber work if this doesn’t last. I’m glad I keep up on this thread cause I have 450 miles on the new skis in pretty good conditions and it’s eating away the front of the carbide fast and felt the steering getting heavier and darty but didn’t know if it was just me.
 
Update: when removing my skis, this is what the 1/4” looked like. Sacked out just like the ski rubber. Traced my 1/4” shims onto 3/8” material. Hoping the extra rigidity helps shim the skis higher. Going for a big rip tomorrow. Will update with results. Hoping this does the trick. Otherwise I’ll have to look at modding the actual pilot rubber saddle to fit with the winder.
Brent.....the shim should sit quite flat at 2" width. It touches the two outer edges, and the bottom center. I know over time the shim can bend a tad but it should not that much as it should touch 3 spots. Check your width to be sure its 2".

Just to be sure, check that 2" spec Ive given.....to be sure it works for your ski, as it does mine. I just assume all pilots are same pocket width, but heck you never know.

I took the spec for shim size direct from my Bergstrom shims....and I know Scott has been using/selling them for many yrs. These are just thicker now.

Dan
 
Just an update on my 3/8 shim.

Now remember, I have started the season with OLD 2500++ mile 5" BRP carbides(1/2 round bar) I always start early season with last seasons worn bars, no sense to take the nice sharpe edge of new carbides early season. I actually really like the 5" BRP carbides.

OK....I checked them last night, and now with 550 miles on the winder....I notice the 3/8 shim has my carbides wearing how I like, more toward back for sure but I like that. I still believe 1/4 should work for a more level wear, as mine are wearing more at back. I will be adding the new 8" executive carbides this week , and will post pics of how the old ones are wearing.

Dan
 
Mine came without ski loops and no evidence there ever was a ski loop mounted. In speaking with SkiDoo the parts ship from the closest dealer that has the part in stock.
 
Skidoo sells ski only. Unless you buy the replacement ski package. I think only available in 5.7? Not % sure.
 
I would agree 100% with you however, I am a dealer for oem parts and have been on the phone with parts and distribution regarding this issue. They sent me another ski and it was identical (gray ski loop and bushings). Also note on the pics that the loop where it attached to the ski has the aluminum river is recessed vs the ski only that is next to it. They do offer ski’s with loops attached however it is not very prevalent.
 
Ok, give me the part number for a 5.7 ski w/white loop. Right & left. I will order them right now.

I'm being a smart***? But believe my words.
 
Anyone have a suggestion on drilling the precise hole location for the outer carbide mounting holes ?
 
Ok, give me the part number for a 5.7 ski w/white loop. Right & left. I will order them right now.

I'm being a smart***? But believe my words.

Haha. I believe you but I also have order multiple skis with loops installed from SD over the years. Just trying to give people a heads up that something is going on there. The numbers that rockerdan provided are legit but some, in my opinion, older 6.9’s are being tagged as bare but in reality they aren’t.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Anyone have a suggestion on drilling the precise hole location for the outer carbide mounting holes ?

I like to use a prick punch, then pilot, then the big dog.

You can use lines to find center.

IMG_20180108_154420-640x380.jpg
 

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