mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
I'll have my hands on my nytro soon. Still playing with bikes a bit.
Photos will come.
Couple of thoughts.
Vents and modding the t-stat are a little bit cheaper than mtn. cooler.
If you have K&Ns and no air box in the way, the t-stat is easy to manipulate.
Anyone who put in the mtn. cooler kit is likely running temp. around 170 while fighting the heat soaked rad.
That's a guess to be confirmed by guys with that kit and a temp gauge.
Guys who go with HID's have opened up a larger area of direct air flow for the rad. Likely they'll not see the light come on anymore.
I used a Yamaha Viper t-stat but it didn't fit perfectly.
Had to put a thin o-ring around the edge then use a little sealant.
Here is a cheaper way to go... An old southern stock car and safety trick for bad t-stats in the day.
Take out the stock nytro t-stat and drill 2 or 3, 1/4" holes in the flange.
You'll get some rad flow all the time and then more when it reaches 160+.
Warm up til light goes out may take a tiny bit longer...
Cheers
Photos will come.
Couple of thoughts.
Vents and modding the t-stat are a little bit cheaper than mtn. cooler.
If you have K&Ns and no air box in the way, the t-stat is easy to manipulate.
Anyone who put in the mtn. cooler kit is likely running temp. around 170 while fighting the heat soaked rad.
That's a guess to be confirmed by guys with that kit and a temp gauge.
Guys who go with HID's have opened up a larger area of direct air flow for the rad. Likely they'll not see the light come on anymore.
I used a Yamaha Viper t-stat but it didn't fit perfectly.
Had to put a thin o-ring around the edge then use a little sealant.
Here is a cheaper way to go... An old southern stock car and safety trick for bad t-stats in the day.
Take out the stock nytro t-stat and drill 2 or 3, 1/4" holes in the flange.
You'll get some rad flow all the time and then more when it reaches 160+.
Warm up til light goes out may take a tiny bit longer...
Cheers