Radiator vs Rear Heat Exchanger on 136" Attak

[steveg_nh]

Well, as is usual for me, I don't sleep well at night unless I take care of everything I can, to the best of my ability. I was able to get a sweet rear heat exchanger out of an attak that was never picked, so it is in great shape. This is the larger exchanger designed for the sled. No worries about overheating now I would imagine once I get it in. So now, after getting the cooling system all set, I'm going to need to break into it again, hopefully not losing a ton of coolant. I figure jack rear end high so it's the highest point, leave cap on radiator to try to maintain vaccuum, and go from there. Now to figure out the best and easiest way to protect it by extending my tunnel protectors. I should get it later this week...plenty of time to plan.

 

[steiner]

Check this thread where I installed the exchanger on my Attak.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/rear-heat-exchanger-updated.108028/
Needed too have over an inch of protection with 1.325 studs in a Ripsaw. The Ripsaw fingers fold over when hitting the protectors and allow the studs to reach deeper than expected.
Raising then tunnel ext does help for track clearance.

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks. I'll read up on that. I'm not sure what the correct way to refer to the length of my studs are, but the overall length is 1.450. I believe you measure them differently though vs overall length. Track lug height is 1.25".

 

[CaptCaper]

At least 1 1/2 inches on that machine over the cooler..And with the 1.425s I don't know..I always used Woodys recommened 1.325.. This is a known fact for both Vector LtX's and Attaks. You taper the added protectors down as they approach the upper wheels. I use 1.325 Woodys on my 4 Attaks with success. Lot's of posts on this..including one in the Vector Stickys. This is one of my installs. Every one I did different but basically had the same end result. 1 1/2 in of protection. You will hit the cooler with out that much I guarantee that.

In the close up photo of one of my machines you can see were you have to cut the OEM Attak tunnel protector to allow the cooler to be installed. Don't know what you have there now. My wifes Vector LTX came with a cooler in 2010 and I only had to use a piece of old HYfax with Aluminum strapping to get the 1 1/2 when I added studs. Which shows in the pict of the soda can on the track. I was installing stud's for her.
You can get the Aluminum tubing ..strapping at HomeDepot if needed.

On one of my 3 cooler installs on Attaks I've owned ( I own 2 still now) the bleen valve on the cooler would not bleed so lifting the front higher then the cooler with the radiator cap off and running would get the air out. Same if the bleed valve works..raise the back up higher and run the machine. I filled my cooler first as I installed it and they made it easier to bleed out. No matter it's a simple thing to do. On a side note the over flow jug never holds what the line on it shows ..it pees it out.. but that's the Attak's way.

And you will over heat even with the cooler.. as most machines can. This is where a good install of scratchers saves the day.

 

[steveg_nh]

This track was studded as is with the 1.45s. I would imagine that's what they are given that's the overall length. I don't think I would do that again when I replace the track though. Anyway, your pics help, and the solution looks simple enough. Someone else recommended used hyfax mounted to alum tubing, so that's the solution I'll go for. I'll have to look under there again too, as I don't recall the exact situation, but all that is there now is the crossover tube, so I know that needs to come out. I think you're saying my existing tunnel protectors will be a bit too long, so I'll have to shorten then, then extend. Did you rivet the two 1x1 tubes together? I'm talking abut the regular tunnel protector, and then the tapered end of the hx protector tube. Since that is hollow tubing, I assume there you tapered it, it's open....

 

[steveg_nh]

So I read a bunch last night about the rear hx, and some talked about reduced suspension travel as it hangs down a bit under the tunnel. I saw a few cut out an opening on the top of the extension and installed from the top. Is this reduced clearance/suspension travel a concern/worry if you install the rear hx as designed, tucked up underneath, mounted from the bottom?

 

[CaptCaper]

No worrys at all. I was 260 lbs bare #*$&@ and never had issues on the hx. Track never showed wear from hitting etc. Some guys are animals and beat the hell out of the machine. I mounted them up from below. With ss bolts not the rivets. I used a combo of bolts,screws to mount the protection. Each time I did it different so I'm sure you can come up with something as well. Easy to do. I have a band saw that cut the tubing tapered etc.

The tube has to come out. And the side tunnel cut towards the front just a little so the hx elbow can go thru . There are pics here some were here on the forum of the spot that needs to be cut out. But it is obvious were cause it's one layer of aluminum surrounded by another. Cut from existing cross over tube hole to the front some. If you look under the tunnel at the side were the cross over tube goes thru you'll see the oblong shaped area of one layer. And or if you hold the hx up there after the cross over tube is out you can see where you need to cut to allow the hx to get up and mount there. Yami must of pre planned this for a hx but never did it until 09. Thin aluminum there so it's easy with a dremel or whatever you might have.

Don't install it at the top it's hoaky and not needed. Do it like OEM and we have done it. Your not far from me so you can look at all three machines I have here that I did protectiona and cooler installs on. With a proven working fine record.


Search the forum for this and you'll find many pictures. Here is some pictures of other installs done here I saved for reference's when doing mine etc. See the pict with the scratches on the cooler? he didn't have 1 1/2 in.. it was OEM protection on a LTX.
I would measure the difference between the 1.325 and 1.425 and try to see if there is a huge difference.

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks a million! I found a bunch of pics like you said, and some that you showed. How is the hollow square tube fastened to the rear plate, just behind the hx? It's hollow, so you can't rivet into it from the other side of anything. I circled what I'm talking about. I assume they aren't floating. I see some with brackets on the hx too, I like that.



Also too, since I just replaced both my footwell heat exchangers, I've already flushed the antifreeze, refilled and bled the system. No issues. When I pull the hoses off the cross tube, as long as the tail end is higher than the AF tank, will I not lose that much AF? I'm hoping the whole system won't gush out. I don't think so. I figure I'll leave hoses on the tunnel hxs so the exit point would be even higher (the end of the hose). Then bleeding shouldn't be too bad as the only real air should be in the new rear hx itself.

 

[CaptCaper]

Thanks a million! I found a bunch of pics like you said, and some that you showed. How is the hollow square tube fastened to the rear plate, just behind the hx? It's hollow, so you can't rivet into it from the other side of anything. I circled what I'm talking about. I assume they aren't floating. I see some with brackets on the hx too, I like that.

View attachment 131672

Also too, since I just replaced both my footwell heat exchangers, I've already flushed the antifreeze, refilled and bled the system. No issues. When I pull the hoses off the cross tube, as long as the tail end is higher than the AF tank, will I not lose that much AF? I'm hoping the whole system won't gush out. I don't think so. I figure I'll leave hoses on the tunnel hxs so the exit point would be even higher (the end of the hose). Then bleeding shouldn't be too bad as the only real air should be in the new rear hx itself.

Just make a bracket out of the tubing or something else.. they don't float of course..don't forget to use Stainless steel bolts and screws with Aluminum. Never use anything else if you can avoid.
As you saw evey one does it a different way. I did mine different each time.. last one was the best of course.. I tied into the very end with a piece of tube that I cut down the middle to make a long right angle bracket.

I just remembered I bolted the front of the taper one or two spots just behind the wheels to the frame above. I had to take the seat out for that. The back part of the protector is held by the angle bracket. The OEM protector is cut just after the OEM support bolt or rivet for that.. so the OEM is good all the way up to the front of course.

 

[CaptCaper]

You might want to sort thru this Sticky from RSVector forum the 2010 LTX is the same as the attak basically.

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/anyone-who-studded-a-2010-vector-ltx-read.88497/

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks. I’ll go through it to see if I get any other ideas on stud protection. I got the heat exchanger installed today and I’m pretty sure this is my best piece of work yet! Came out really nice. No problems at all after reading so many tips and from all the advice you guys gave. It went on like a glove and I got all 7 rivets drilled in tunnel extension to make sure it’s solid. Made a template out of paper before I mounted it so I knew where to drill the rivet holes I couldn’t see from below. And the horror! I spilled antifreeze all over the garage floor (see last pic - LOL).

Anyway all done and bled the air out. It really transfers heat to the tunnel extension too which should also help with heat transfer. All in all I’m thrilled and glad I did it. Now just the stud protection.

 

[CaptCaper]

Nice.. I used the rubber grommets that came with my exchanger at the point of were the elbow goes thru the side tunnel. So the tunnel won't dig into the Aluminum elbow.

And I'm telling you will have to have 1 1/2 in at least and with those 1.425's probably a bit more ... Search and find the ones who chewed up their Attaks or LTX's. Short tracks are a different beast as the other models like Viper,etc. so your warned.

Thanks. I’ll go through it to see if I get any other ideas on stud protection. I got the heat exchanger installed today and I’m pretty sure this is my best piece of work yet! Came out really nice. No problems at all after reading so many tips and from all the advice you guys gave. It went on like a glove and I got all 7 rivets drilled in tunnel extension to make sure it’s solid. Made a template out of paper before I mounted it so I knew where to drill the rivet holes I couldn’t see from below. And the horror! I spilled antifreeze all over the garage floor (see last pic - LOL).

Anyway all done and bled the air out. It really transfers heat to the tunnel extension too which should also help with heat transfer. All in all I’m thrilled and glad I did it. Now just the stud protection.

View attachment 132179 View attachment 132180 View attachment 132181 View attachment 132182 View attachment 132183 View attachment 132184

 

[steveg_nh]

Oh yeah, I absolutely plan to build stud protection. I mentioned that above. I was just happy to the exchanger installed so smooth. I bought mine used too, so it didn't have the rubber grommets on the ends, but I did notice the pass through, and there is about 1/8" of a space between the tube and the tunnel frame. It won't touch. That hx isn't moving. 7 rivets and two bolts.

When it comes to building the protectors, since my studs are 1.45s, I know I need more than 1.5" of protection. So I thought I would go with 1x1.5" tubing, and a 3/8" flat bar. The flat bar can be easily formed to shape and the alum tube would mount to it, and then rest against the cooler. Basically, I'm making this style of protector (I found the example on this site), just using 1.5" stock. Will this be too tall? Total height would be 1 7/8 plus any space between the protector and tube, so maybe more. Should I go with thinner flat bar? Maybe 1/8" I don't want to remove too much suspension travel space.

 

[darv]

if need i have tunnel portector kit for LTX 136 that i do not need. if anyone needs it

 

[steveg_nh]

if need i have tunnel portector kit for LTX 136 that i do not need. if anyone needs it

Is this the Yamaha kit that requires you to remove the existing ones (pulling seat and tank and all to get them out), or something you made up?