Radiator vs Rear Heat Exchanger on 136" Attak

Thanks. I would have been interested if I still had the sled all apart, but I'm not ripping it all apart again just to install the Yamaha kit.
 
Made some good progress on getting the hx protectors made. A lot more work than I thought it would be. Given that the recommended protection thickness for 1.325" studs is 1.5" of protection, I had to go a bit thicker given my 1.45" studs. I just added a minimum 1/8" which is the difference between the stud sizes. My minimum thickness of the protectors I made is 1.65, slightly more. Plus since the protectors sit off the cooler a bit, it's actually a bit more.

I read a bunch of posts on it and looked at a bunch of designs. I opted for one design I saw that seemed easy to make and serviceable if needed. I'm not great at fabricating, but it came out pretty good.

I'm using 1/4" aluminum bar as the support structure, with 1x1" tubing, and then 1/8" flat bar with .65" old hyfax. The 1/8" flat bar and hyfax are screwed in from the bottom, so I can remove them if they end up getting chewed up, so I can replace them without taking the whole thing out. And given the direction of track travel , and the contact points in the event it does touch the protectors, I don't envision there being any issues with the track catching anything as the stepped edge is on the front side, with the track rolling across the step from rear to front. All my studs are up the middle too, which is down the middle of the protectors, so they won't catch on anything.

Here's some pics as I was making them. Just need to mount them now. I'll rivet just behind the upper idler axle and then use U brackets at the back, hanging the supports from the tunnel extension just behind the cooler. The protectors will be set off the cooler about 1/4", and not actually resting/pressing on it.

I may have to drop the rear of the skid to get the air rivet head in there. If I do, will I have to loosen the track? I'm thinking I will, or I won't be able to get it reinstalled and loose enough to get it out. Not a big deal I guess if I have to, but I have it perfect and would love not to.

If you see something with the design you don't like, don't tell me unless you think it's going to be horrible. LOL. I'm pretty tired (in general) and looking forward to wrapping this up. This sled has been a lot of work. :D

hx1.jpeg hx2.jpeg hx3.jpeg hx4.jpeg
 
I loosened the track and took out the upper wheels only so I could bolt my protectors up in that area.
 
I didn't think of just pulled that upper axle vs the whole back. That would probably give me enough room to work the riveter in there. If I take the rear bolt off the transfer rod and disconnect the limiter strap, I wonder if I don't have to loosen the track to get the axle back in...hmmm...
 
It's the tension that makes it hard to put back the upper wheels. Not sure if the transfer will help. Easy to loosen the track.. keep track of the turns to loosen you take so you get the adjustment back fast.
I must say with all the work you did you should have a "like new" machine there. Pretty reliable for sure. And any other stuff needing doing you should be well learned now on it's design making it much easier to get thru. Can't beat it..

I've got to trade parts from my old 07 Attak to the new low mileage 07 Attak so I can sell the old one. I have a Inguinal hernia operation coming Tuesday the 14th so that screws me up. I could wait a year and just use the new one or the old one as they both are A1 shape but the value will drop that much more over the year.
 
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Thanks guys.

Northernsledder, thanks, but if it means moving the cooler, changing the tunnel, etc., that's a show stopper. I'm done! LOL I have it installed, and built the 1-5/8" protectors. I have a 1.25" track, and stock suspension, so given all I read, I think I'll be ok. I was at first worried about the loss of travel, but given so many factors, I think I'm good. I really only trail ride too, very rarely do I really venture off trail.
 
steveg_nh said:
Thanks guys.

Northernsledder, thanks, but if it means moving the cooler, changing the tunnel, etc., that's a show stopper. I'm done! LOL I have it installed, and built the 1-5/8" protectors. I have a 1.25" track, and stock suspension, so given all I read, I think I'll be ok. I was at first worried about the loss of travel, but given so many factors, I think I'm good. I really only trail ride too, very rarely do I really venture off trail.
Click to expand...
You only encounter the loss of travel when landing nose high on the back wheels from big bumps. Does not happen often for me but when it does the breaking action of the track hitting the protectors quickly brings the skis down. Sometimes too quick.
 
I've got 18k miles on Attaks with 1 1/2 in protection and never noticed travel issues,marking on any parts. But with my size I can't get the sled off the ground to save me. Ha.
 
CaptCaper, you rock! Great idea to just remove the upper shaft. Worked like a charm! I removed the rear control rod bolt, and that took the preload off the suspension (thanks for the advice Richard (apexallday!)), and then I was able to remove the idler wheel shaft with ease. Plenty of room to get the rivet gun in there now. Some careful measurements to use the existing holes in the original protectors, and they are in!

Such a huge relief, as the measuring needed to be precise to get the rivet holes in the flat bar of the protectors I made to line up. Everything is all bolted back up tight. Sa-weet! Now just need to fabricate some rear mounting brackets (need to decide if I want rivets on top of tunnel, rear near snow flap mounting holes, or hidden behind the snow flap...leaning that way!

I'm not the best fabricator, but I'm pleased with how these came out...

I literally just need to get the rear mounting brackets figured out, figure out how to secure my scratchers mounted on skis when not in use, and put it in the trailer...DO THE DANCE!

hxinstall1.jpeg hxinstall2.jpeg hxinstall3.jpeg
 
I see you got the older cooler model..? Newer ones have the groove for the protection to run in on the fins. Any way they both work.. I don't think the rear gets much pressure or push from the track because I used brackets made from the 1 1/2 " tubing and they held up fine on all the machines. Also the cooler would take the hit as well. Which I can't see any damage over the years on any of the machines. And I have hit hard alot being this size. I don't go air bound I end up digging a hole or knocking a rock free. :)
 
Might be an older cooler, but doesn't matter to me. The 1/4" difference in height won't matter. This cooler was used and mint, so I'm happy with that. I'm probably just going to bang out some U brackets out of 1/8" aluminum flat bar, and rivet from the top of the tunnel extension, just behind the row of 4 rivets for the cooler...4 more rivets won't matter (2 each bracket to spread the load). :)
 
You can see why you need soo much protection in this pic. The little fingers on the Ripsaw break off when they come in contact with the tunnel protectors making it a 3/4 deep track along this area. Combine that with studs and the exchanger, rear bulkhead crossover and exhaust take a beating.
hxinstall1.jpeg.jpg


I do have concerns about those screw heads sticking past the sliders tho.
 
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