Radiator vs Rear Heat Exchanger on 136" Attak

Steiner, where the screw heads are, are only the rubber track lugs, no picks. My picks all run up the middle of the track, between the protectors. I figured the rubber lugs would run right over the screw heads. Easy to change if I need to, so let's discuss! I could remove and counter sink a bit too. :) That duct tape was only there too, as a third hand. It held the custom protector tight against the stock one while I get the rivets in.

On the track depth, yes, I agree, those lugs are pretty soft too and flex, so what I did was take a measurement of the pick height all the way to the base of the track. I then transferred that to the protectors I made to make sure the protectors and distance to the cooler was slightly more, so they definitely cannot hit the cooler.
 
On the track depth, yes, I agree, those lugs are pretty soft too and flex, so what I did was take a measurement of the pick height all the way to the base of the track. I then transferred that to the protectors I made to make sure the protectors and distance to the cooler was slightly more, so they definitely cannot hit the cooler.

Exactly. ;)!
 
Those screw heads will catch on the track and tear more of the track off. Been ther dun that.
 
Ok, so I can find a flatter head screw, countersink, or rivet. I prefer not to rivet, as I like the idea of being able to easily remove them and replace if needed.

Originally, when I fixed the stock protectors (where you can see the hole drilled in the rear cooler protector to allow it to sit flush), the consensus was the the screw head was not an issue...

What about a screw like this, that would be a bit countersink and pretty flat along the slider?

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Picked up some flat head screws like the ones above at lunch. I'll countersink and install tonight. Done! :)
 
Ok how are we feeling about this now with flush screws? Looks good to me.

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Mounting brackets for the back tonight, and cross this one off the list and move this bad boy into the trailer where it can nap for a few weeks till the snow is flying and the trails are open!
 
So you have not ridden this sled yet Correct ?? You better give us a ride report and what you think of the 4 stroke power....
 
LOL, nope I have not, unless you count from the trailer up to the top of the driveway. :) My buddy had the same model sled though, so I have ridden his before, and was blown away by it. Can't wait to ride this one though.
 
Stick a fork in this project. Rear brackets made and mounted. Done.

Here’s the brackets mounted and the two additional top side rivets. The furthest back rivets near the flap on top.

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Perfect.. . Done for now..ha.. You might have to tweak it a bit once it's running but your good to go for many miles.
A few tips.. in really cold temps when starting first thing hold key in starting mode until she catches good. Backing off too soon and motor stalling might flood it out on next try. Always hold the key over before cranking until the pump is primed etc. this may flood it. Let it warm up real good so the snow can melt off the heat exchangers down onto the hyfax when you get going. These are known for destroying hyfax very fast with the mid wheel kits,etc. some say adjusting the track like the manual (too tight) says gives the worse wear. Adjusting it so about 3/4 " natural sag while off the ground is the trick. Make sure the Hyfax does not wear down past the line on them. Using the scratchers a lot will help that.
The machine will shut down if it idles too long and reaches a certain temp but not while moving. Again your antifreeze will probably piss out of the overflow jug and never stay at the cold line but if you remove the main camp next to it the antifreeze when cold will always be at the top.
It might use oil when running hard and fast. All of mine did with no issues. Check the oil level when warm. Your going to love the smoothness of a 4 cylinder fuel injected. When running thru wet slush water,etc don't shut it down soon as you stop.. let it idle for a few seconds first. The computer can get confused on restarting and flood out.. It happened to me.. I do that all the time now in all conditions of riding. That's the worse thing with fuel injection is it chokes and alters fuel based on barometric,temps,etc. it can get confused when starting half #*$&@ etc. I always leave it idling when stopped for a minute to check a map etc. when riding in harsh conditions. Worried it will get confused and keeps the cooler hot for lube the hand grips hot since they suck. Yama heater is a necessity with this machine.
If you hear clunking at low speeds on a bumpy trail this is normal. It's the transfer rod ..some put a rubber bushing there..I never bothered. If you have the OEM ski's I've found the Woody's duallys Original work awesome.. I use 8" ones due to Picks. Tried Pilots and found them horrible.. I got about 14 or 15 mpg mostly. So you may find you get about 125 miles before it get's really low and warning lights. Holds 10 gallons but can't get all of it. I'm 6'2" and 250lbs with gear so mileage may vary.
 
Thanks for all the tips. Temperamental machine! LOL. I have C&A skis with dual runners, supposedly better than stock, but not as good as a set of Simmons.

Pretty excited to ride this thing after doing so much work on it.
 


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