Removing exhaust

[DMCTurbo]

The stock bolt that was removed/installed several times snapped on this one...grrr

spent the day monday drilling out the hardened bolt, and finally got an easy out on it and it came....pain in #*$&@!

I now chase threads each time before new install, and use hi temp anti-seize and will be trying SS bolts this next time, and do not torque them too tight, and use a lockwasher. Also will only install NEW bolts each time, never using bolts more then once anymore. Also use 20mm not 25mm length.

Dan

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I agree with all you just said, I still have one broke off with a drill bit snapped off inside but there is no exhaust leak so I'm not going to worry about it till spring. I have the four corner bolts in with the super quiet so I'm sure it's all good.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I agree with all you just said, I still have one broke off with a drill bit snapped off inside but there is no exhaust leak so I'm not going to worry about it till spring. I have the four corner bolts in with the super quiet so I'm sure it's all good.

With the SQ you can only use 5 anyway..lol We have never used the left/middle.

I agree, the 4 corners are fine....No leaks.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Figured I'd bump this up for the new owners to give them a heads up.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

This thread should be stuck.....Lots good info here about bolts.

On my new sled,when it arrives....I will change out stock bolts to SS m8x20mm and be CERTAIN to apply liberally nickel anti-Seize. Then when it comes time to tighten chain they wont break off. Only use the bolts ONCE.

Dan

 

[blake]

I was told there was new bolts on the 2018 anyone else hear this or comfirm?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I was told there was new bolts on the 2018 anyone else hear this or comfirm?

I dont think anyone knows for sure if/what changes were done. Something like bolts will be hard to tell unless they change the look entirely, maybe go to hex?

What needs to be understood is....no matter WHAT bolts come on new sled, its smart to Remove them before riding sled(heat cycles) and apply liberally nickel anti-seize.

Until some muffler guru designs a V band removal connection to separate muffler from turbo outlet pipe, most all mufflers will need to be unbolted from turbo for simple chain tightening.

Maybe some sort of access hole from below to adjust chain? Will be looking at my sled closely, sure would be nice not to have to remove the muffler over and over.

Dan

 

[Derek Turnbull]

Thanks for the bump on this one. Crazy all the issues with the bolts on the exhaust and turbo.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Thanks for the bump on this one. Crazy all the issues with the bolts on the exhaust and turbo.

After researching bolts....I came across this issue quite often on car forums....Anything that gets red hot then cools over and over is a tough spot for fasteners. Its something that would be best if left alone, and so that is why the design should be improved upon IMO. Since we need to get behind the muffler for chain. On the cat 1100 the turbo was out front and there was a turbo outlet pipe, then the muffler....its not as hot when you get further away so that muffler was easier to remove, and the connection was bolts with nuts on the 1100...and aftermarket incorporated Vband clamps for even faster removal.

Problem here is using studs or Vband is very tough due to room....with studs its tricky to get muffler up/down over the studs, and Vband design would be similar as it would be hard to lift the muffler up and out with Vband clamp. Maybe if the lower side panel was removable easily then the muffler with either studs or Vband could be removed outward then.

Im surprised the exhaust gurus have not come up with something so far. The more we get guys changing chain oil and tightening chains, the more we will hear about broke muffler bolts and many times it will be the dealers having to drill out those hardened bolts..grrrr....dont ask me how I know!

Dan

 

[XP123]

The factory bolts came out hard on mine. I went with regular hex head bolts and used high temp never seize and after 1400 miles they came out very easy. Even if one of them breaks they will be very easy to drill out and remove. The factory bolts or SS bolts will suck to drill out and be a big job to remove. I now consider it a non issue.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

The factory bolts came out hard on mine. I went with regular hex head bolts and used high temp never seize and after 1400 miles they came out very easy. Even if one of them breaks they will be very easy to drill out and remove. The factory bolts or SS bolts will suck to drill out and be a big job to remove. I now consider it a non issue.

Joe....I dropped my 1200 in to Don this week....just waiting now!

Agree with Anti-Seize. Must use Nickel(highest temp) as 2500 degrees is needed here. After using the anti-seize and lockwashers with just about any bolt, they then removed easily anytime. But I still dont use bolts more then ONCE as I did remove them often and I believe with more miles and heat, the bolts will become tougher over time, even with anti seize, so buy a box of bolts cheap and toss out old ones each time.

Stock bolts are a hardened bolt(ask me how I know GRRR) and take quite some time to drill out. Same as these ARP Bolts, I did alot of research on them and heard some horror stories too.

Stainless does well with heat(see below) and is softer.(the A-286SS is nice but very pricey) It wont corrode but when trying to loosen it will tend to be more forgiving, where as a hardened bolt material will SNAP off the head as it has no give. Sorta like tempered glass treatment. But lets face it, ALL bolts will snap no matter what you use, once they GALL into the threads from the constant red hot heat and cool over and over.....SS is at least gonna be easier to drill out.

I have worked with SS alot, its super easy to drill out as it soft...one drill bit will do it. While I went thru about 6 bits drilling out stock bolt....and half a day..lol

Im gonna just buy a box of 50 SS bolts M8 x 20mm most likely. But the key is, do it from day one when sled is new with anti-seize(nickel)

Dan

 

[XP123]

I hear you Dan that's why I went with cheap hex bolts. So far they come out real easy and like I said before if one breaks they are very easy to drill out and remove. I thought the factory bolts were very hard to remove even with the high temp anti seize on them. I could see the factory bolts breaking and being a real pain to drill and remove. Do you really think the SS bolts will drill out easy? I've had some real issues with stainless bolts in the past. They snap easy and drill tough.

 

[DranttelSS]

I think you guys are over thinking this. I have yet to see one that wont come out with a little heat from a propane torch.

Just be careful not to burn yourself when taking the bolts out. Also don't put heat to it if you have used some sort of penetrating oil. (fire hazard)

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

Ceramic Never Seez works the best

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I hear you Dan that's why I went with cheap hex bolts. So far they come out real easy and like I said before if one breaks they are very easy to drill out and remove. I thought the factory bolts were very hard to remove even with the high temp anti seize on them. I could see the factory bolts breaking and being a real pain to drill and remove. Do you really think the SS bolts will drill out easy? I've had some real issues with stainless bolts in the past. They snap easy and drill tough.

SS is quite soft material...I used it a ton on the Harley Mods...I designed and hand built a ton of custom drag handlebars, all SS....quite soft for sure. Drill very easy.

I ended up just sticking regular steel(zinc coated) Hex bolts in Toms sled last season finally, all we could grab from Depot, and with the nickel anti seize they are fine. But remember the basic steel hex bolts will end up rusting so after some time will be a pain in #*$&@ to remove too, so SS IMO is best at this time, unless we come up with something new! haha

Tom had the dealer install some nice looking Hex bolts after his first chain tightening....dealer used the 10.9 grade which are hardened.....after 1 heat cycle I went to remove and snapped head off the 10.9. So I think those hardened bolts dont like that mass red hot turbo much. Then I broke stocker later, and it was a bugger. Neither of those had anti seize though, as we did not use it initially. But I do worry about longer period of time, even the anti seize burning off ect....I mean that thing is red hot over an over.lol

Need a new design!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I think you guys are over thinking this. I have yet to see one that wont come out with a little heat from a propane torch.

Just be careful not to burn yourself when taking the bolts out.

Once they Gall up, no heat gonna take em out....I feel like its just a matter of time til one snaps. But many have their dealer do their chains, so it will be more a dealer issue i think.