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Removing exhaust


Often, I've seen customer sleds where the T50 exhaust bolts were tightened way too tight. I've seen customers really lean on a ratchet when putting them in. Official torque for these bolts is first 9 ft.lbs in criss-cross pattern, then final torque at 18 ft lbs.
 
Got them out. Alot of heat and patience. Got nickel antisieze comming. Want to replace bolts as dont trust now. Order factory or hardware store. Mixed reviews on here
 
3 years on stainless bolts and copper anti-seize with removal at least once a year with no problems....so far. I always use a thread cleaning chaser tap prior to reassembly to clean everything up, and torque to about 10 -12 ftlbs. I have to admit though, I don't put 1000's of miles on every year.
 
My father replaced the bolts with studs, but there still is a bit of issue on a couple of the studs and clearance, as well we had an exhaust gasket blow out because at least one of the brass nuts came loose. so 2 steps forward, and 2 steps back, the gasket isnt cheap.
 
Wtf yamaha. Was going to just order some new oem. Over 10 dollars a bolt. 60 dollars plus for 6 bolts. Thats insane. Was going to get new and nickel antisieze. Now its either hardware store or reuse. Old
 
I have gotten just plain hex head bolts from local hardware. no issues with our 4 winders. Quite inexpensive
 
I have gotten just plain hex head bolts from local hardware. no issues with our 4 winders. Quite inexpensive
Just replace with exhaust manifold hardware.

Example - Dorman 03413 (10.9/8mmx30mm) just cut 5mm off.... Easy peasy... Use nickle anti seize and torque accordingly.... Buy the kit and have enough for 2 turbo connectors.
Cheers
 
Factory threaded holes were the problem for me back when my 2017 was new!

Like many will attest to, it took a lot of patience and different techniques to get them out the first time! Even with heat mine needed to be screwed in and out a couple threads at a time!

Once I got them all out a thread chaser was needed to clean up the mess they created at the factory! I reused my original hardware except for two or three that needed replacement because of bending on their way out!

Once I cleaned up the holes and made sure to use Nickel anti seize! Copper did not work for me whereas it was my first anti-seize because it was easy to get locally unlike Nickel!

It’s been apart many times since without problems! Damn Yamacats are awesome but are also VERY high maintenance, unlike nothing I have ever owned!
 
Running atap through the threads is a must, but the housing is very hard, it's like 1/8 turn ahead and 1 turn back, repeat once more than blow out the hole. Probably took me 40 min to do all the holes, I really didn't want to snap a tap off
 
Running atap through the threads is a must, but the housing is very hard, it's like 1/8 turn ahead and 1 turn back, repeat once more than blow out the hole. Probably took me 40 min to do all the holes, I really didn't want to snap a tap off

I did just that last winter on my buddies zr 9000. Using a 4 flute tap. I spent 1 1/2 hrs. grinding out the tap with a dremel. 4 flute taps are a no no.
 
Running atap through the threads is a must, but the housing is very hard, it's like 1/8 turn ahead and 1 turn back, repeat once more than blow out the hole. Probably took me 40 min to do all the holes, I really didn't want to snap a tap off
Wow i would think just a thread cleanup would be easy on the tap. Probs should go beter than my hf tap set then.

Is tap a m8x1.25 i assume and or is a thread chaser a differnet tool?
 
I did just that last winter on my buddies zr 9000. Using a 4 flute tap. I spent 1 1/2 hrs. grinding out the tap with a dremel. 4 flute taps are a no no.
I used a spiral flute, being a machinist has its perks lol
 
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