Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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So just to be sure, what does it do when you push the button?
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Back too what the original post said, the tread got a little side tracked. I've had the same issue on mine. Basically you start the sled up, RPMs are normal, push the button for reverse and nothing. There is no beep, the light stays on D. You think you missed the button so try it again and no nothing. If you turn the sled off then restart it goes into reverse like there was never a problem. My problem happened at the beginning of this year but has stopped for some reason. Last season not once.
Yammimodder
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- 1989 Sno Scoot
2007 Phaxer GT
2008 Vector XTX
2009 Nytro RTX
exactly the same issue that I am having. sometimes if you rock it back and forth and move ahead a little, the button actually works. other times it will never work no matter what you do. not sure why the tps makes a difference. RPMs are not too high and I can't see the chain being too tight as I have never tightened it since I bought the machine 1000kms ago. This to me does not seem like a mechanical issue as when you stop and start the engine, it usually works fine(holding throttle w/o until fuel pump cuts out). I have noticed that sometimes when I am driving on trail the green Drive light blinks for a few seconds and then stays solid. this is pretty rare though.
Cubby
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This is what happens to me - if I cycle the key a few times to prime the fuel pump before starting the engine, reverse may or may not work (push the reverse button - nothing - no flashing light - no beeping). If I just turn the key and start the engine (no cycling) the reverse works fine for the day. TPS maybe?
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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You are right. I think it's a different issue then the " put in reverse, sled beeps, rock the sled and it works" issue. That a gear box that isn't allowing two gear to mesh. This problem is an electrical issue.
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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This is what happens to me - if I cycle the key a few times to prime the fuel pump before starting the engine, reverse may or may not work (push the reverse button - nothing - no flashing light - no beeping). If I just turn the key and start the engine (no cycling) the reverse works fine for the day. TPS maybe?
If it is related to the TPS, why? Not sure why that would make a difference. Some here reported that adjusting the TPS has made a difference but it also leaned out the sled. My sled runs very well and really don't want to mess with the TPS. I have noticed myself as suggested by someone else if I pin the throttle then turn the key to the on position but don't start it, release the throttle the start the sled I don't seem to have the reverse issue.
Cubby
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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Yeah I'm not going to change anything. I just start the sled without cycling and life is good. I rarely use reverse anyway so its not a big deal.
I did try the trottle trick but it didn't work for me.
I did try the trottle trick but it didn't work for me.
Ruggybuggy
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It one of those little problems that really isn't worth spending a lot of time on. It's just an inconvenience that just pisses you off a touch.
Yammimodder
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when I restart with throttle wide open, the reverse works most times, but it doesn't stay working. ie, 2 miles into the woods when I need reverse, it again doesn't work. Most times when I press the button nothing happens. there is a rare occasion when it tries to shift and gets caught in between, light blinks, rev limiter takes over until the gear mesh is good, then it goes into reverse fine. This is a different issue that is probably chain tension or belt. I just don't understand why it will not even try to go into reverse each time you press the button. for me this is a big issue as we use reverse all the time. would really like to have a fix.
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Yeah sound like two different issues. The meshing issue can be made better by the updated belt, proper belt deflection and a slightly looser chain. These all help but you will sill need to jump up and down, rock back and forth like a wild monkey every once I awhile. The electrical issue has no solution that I know of.
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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'07 Phazer FX (gone)
'09 Phazer GT (gone)
'10 RS Venture GT (My current ride)
'10 Nytro FX (son's)
- LOCATION
- Greely, ON Canada
This has me thinking (which can be dangerous). I also have the blinking green F light occasionally. I wonder if it's something with the forward gear not properly registering on that switch? Maybe the ECU won't allow it to shift if it's not registering properly, not sure if it's in forward gear. There is a thick aluminum gasket washer on that switch. What if it was swapped with a thinner washer, possibly a copper one, so that it made better contact with the gear inside?
Ruggybuggy
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Hey Mooseman I know what your doing this weekend!
Yammimodder
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2008 Vector XTX
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not sure on what exactly the control sequence is on these switches. I know that when in F, the switch is a completed circuit and there is 0 volts to ground. the opposite when in R. do these switches just give the ecu a signal on which way the servo motor is supposed to move(ie, ahead or back) when the R button is pressed? guessing they are not just for the light on the pod. I adjusted my chain tension last night and it was not tight. I had to tighten it quite a bit to get it take up the slack so I don't think this was affecting the Reverse. I also put on a new belt to rule that out. I still think these mechanical adjustments are not the problem to the ecu not even trying to shift into R. I also adjusted the TPS a tiny bit from being all the way down. Ill see tonight if this makes any difference.
Yammimodder
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2007 Phaxer GT
2008 Vector XTX
2009 Nytro RTX
I think I will dig a little deeper and check at the servo to see if it is actually getting the 12v when I press the R button. I have a feeling that this is not happening. wondering now if there might be an intermittent problem with the relays for the gear motor? ie, just like the starter relay problem on the nytros. anyway, if the motor is not getting the signal, ill know that it is something before this connection. IE- relays or the ecu. doubt that the ecu is the issue. just wondering again what the forward and reverse switches have to do with how the servo motor works. Last resort will be bypass the relays all together and put two push buttons on my dash! one for R and one for F. lol.
Ronald Filion
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Interesting thread. I have an 07 MP with the same issues. Brought it to the dealer and he adjusted the TPS. Reverse worked fine but the sled won't start anymore, first in the cold, then even in the garage. Would the TPS adjustment affect cold start? At first I thought condensation issues but ruled them out when I could smell the Sea Foam coming out the back of the tail pipe. It seemed as though it was flooded. I had the battery hooked up to a booster so there was no shortage of power to the starter. Changed the plugs which were carbon fouled, now she starts but is giving me TORS and the fuel warning yellow light is flashing. So I've come to adjusting the TPS myself, with the diagnostic mode on. I can't get it within specs though. At idle, it should be between 15 and 18, which is easy to do, but then at FT it reads 101 or 102, but should be 95-100. I read that throttle cable stretch might be an issue so I'm going to tighten up the cable a little.had same issue with my 07 last year after I bought it second hand. I did adjust the TPS(had to drill a hole in bulkhead by clutch in order to get a torx screwdriver in to access the sensor) and it solved the problem of reverse but created what seemed to be a lean running engine at low rpm. I am thinking now that maybe the sensor and the actual throttle cable may be out of sync a little due to the cable stretching maybe? I haven't really dug into this much. I did notice that as I under adjusted the sensor, the engine would run fine at idle, but reverse wouldn't work. when I over adjusted, engine would run lean(hight idle), and reverse would work fine. I found a happy medium and it is ok now but would like to get it to where the engine doesn't want to race when just puttering around the yard. any suggestions?
For the flashing fuel warning, could that be just because I had the tank off?
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