RTX (CK skid) front inner idler removal...updated with pics

[garserio]

This was my process:

1. Raise back machine
2. Release torsion tension and remove outer idler blocks/torsion sliders
3. Release center spring tension
4. Remove idler shaft bolts
5. Pull idler shaft forward and up
6. Remove collar setscrews and slide off the idler/collar assy's

I did this numerous times with much success, so this is another option for you.

Word of caution, save yourself so time and go with the wider RX1/Viper idler wheels. Search for my posts from last year on this solution as it lasted over 3k miles with no more warping, delam, etc... and I run studs whose head run over the wheels. I still have a few custom collar kits left if you decide against making your own. My posts provide complete instructions on the job and fabrication of the new collars to accomodate the bigger wheels.

 

[ReX]

One bit of advice. Use red loctite on all of the permanent cross shaft bolts (shafts that you don't see yourself removing to do future work) and use blue loctite on every other bolt. I also make sure there is no grease on any of the bolt or shaft threads by cleaning them with brake cleaner and compressed air.

Do this with any bolt that you even loosen off just a little bit.

Suspension bolts almost always loosen off on me if I don't loctite everything. Actually I don't loctite the limiter strap bolts - everything else though, including the hyfax screws (but here I use purple loctite if I plan to remove them again in the not so distant future). I also use purple loctite on the set screws (front idler sleeves and driveshaft bearing).

 

[ReX]

Word of caution, save yourself so time and go with the wider RX1/Viper idler wheels. Search for my posts from last year on this solution as it lasted over 3k miles with no more warping, delam, etc... and I run studs whose head run over the wheels. I still have a few custom collar kits left if you decide against making your own. My posts provide complete instructions on the job and fabrication of the new collars to accomodate the bigger wheels.

One thing I was disappointed to discover today is Yamaha has discontinued the plain black 130mm idler wheels with 6205 bearings that were used on all 1998-2004 Yamaha sleds (shown in your pictures with the 4 inner idler locations). If we want plain black idlers we now have to use the lightweight, weaker wheels with 6005 bearings.

I even tried Kimpex and found that PPG has stopped making them for Kimpex also.

Color wheels are still available (but I like the plain solid black wheels...).

135mm plain black wheels are still available from Skidoo, but I consider them too large for the inner idler locations because the slide rails are too weak to begin with here.

 

[garserio]

One thing I was disappointed to discover today is Yamaha has discontinued the plain black 130mm idler wheels with 6205 bearings that were used on all 1998-2004 Yamaha sleds (shown in your pictures with the 4 inner idler locations). If we want plain black idlers we now have to use the lightweight, weaker wheels with 6005 bearings.

I even tried Kimpex and found that PPG has stopped making them for Kimpex also.

Color wheels are still available (but I like the plain solid black wheels...).

135mm plain black wheels are still available from Skidoo, but I consider them too large for the inner idler locations because the slide rails are too weak to begin with here.

Are you kidding me? That is rediculous! That is the only wheel that ever lasted like it should. I assume that the colored ones that are still available are the ones with the ninja star pattern like one the stock rear idlers?

What is Yamaha thinking? They must have burnt bridges with that supplier who is PPD.

 

[Kevin Garceau]

Well...issues, I got the new wheel from my dealer and its the bigger PPD wheel.

Of course we are getting dumped on with 8 inches of fresh snow and I don thave the correct parts. I wouldnt mind the better wheel if I had the correct spacers for them....

uggh...not one thing its another.

 

[ReX]

Are you kidding me? That is rediculous! That is the only wheel that ever lasted like it should. I assume that the colored ones that are still available are the ones with the ninja star pattern like one the stock rear idlers?

What is Yamaha thinking? They must have burnt bridges with that supplier who is PPD.

I'm not kidding. As a high mileage rider I too have found that to be the best wheel for surviving huge miles without issues (6000 miles typically).

The part number for the discontinued wheel is:

8CR-47310-10-00

I've tried 3 different dealers, trying to find a superseded number and although this is still the wheel listed for all 98-04 Yamaha sleds (in the fiche), it is now a discontinued number without a replacement part.

PPD is (I believe) the largest plastic snowmobile wheel manufacturer out there. They make the wheels for most OEMs as well as Kimpex and Gamma.

http://www.ppdgroup.com/

I did manage to pick up two of these wheels today through a Gamma part number (043-3200). To my surprise, the wheels actually are the Yamaha wheels and include "Yamaha" written on the side. My understanding is since the manufacturer isn't making any more, once Gamma is out of stock, that is it.

 

[garserio]

Rex:

My part sources here in the states give the following superceded number:

BOGEY WHEEL W SPACER for Yamaha, 8CR-4731A-00-00

I wonder what this is? Sounds like the thinner wheel with a spacer to make up the 3mm width difference.

Nice move Yammie... keep up the good work! Some buyer at the Yamaha parts division probably got a promotion for some "cost savings" program for this one...

 

[ahicks]

Pro X suspension in, was able to install it at original height. More about it as it gets a few miles on it. Total to date with suspension, rebuilt Ryde FX clickers front and rear, extroverts, and new Cobra track under $1100.

 

[donkickit]

Question with process

I was reading thru your process for inner idler wheel replacement.
My question: What's the easiest way to release center spring tension?
I assume you did not undue the rear skid?


This was my process:

1. Raise back machine
2. Release torsion tension and remove outer idler blocks/torsion sliders
3. Release center spring tension
4. Remove idler shaft bolts
5. Pull idler shaft forward and up
6. Remove collar setscrews and slide off the idler/collar assy's

I did this numerous times with much success, so this is another option for you.