RxThunder
Expert
Had to take the carbs off and apart to replace a screw holding the throttle cable bracket. Took the bowls off to check for dirt, cleaned them, replaced the carbs and now it seems as though i'm not getting fuel to 2 cylinders 
any ideas?
any ideas?fuel problem
First thing to do is determine if both cylinders are supplied by the same fuel pump. If they aren't then its carbs. If they are then remove the fuel line and see if the pump is at fault. Start it and direct the line into a can or a bottle to avoid a fire. If the pump is not working then it must be replaced as there are no rebuilds for it. If its working then squirt a litlle fuel into the carbs of the dead cylinders to see if they will fire. They will only run for a few seconds this way but its important to try. If they don't fire it could be a couple of bad plugs. Change plugs and try again because it may solve the problem and its simple. If this doesn't work then its in the carbs. I assume you put them back together right. It could be one of two things. The needle valves could be stuck in the seats. I have had this happen to me after I filled my sled with fuel containing ethanol and let it sit for only a couple of weeks. Remove and clean. These carbs have a tiny metal screen above the needle and seat right below the inlet. I removed this after I was advised by another member here. You have to remove the brass seat to get at this. Its best to completely remove the rack of carbs from the machine to do this. I tried it without removing the cables and twisting the carbs upside down. It went OK for 3 carbs but I dropped the needle of the 4th and ended up spending a couple of hours seaching for it in the belly pan. It was between the chaincase and the bulkhead. Good Luck.
First thing to do is determine if both cylinders are supplied by the same fuel pump. If they aren't then its carbs. If they are then remove the fuel line and see if the pump is at fault. Start it and direct the line into a can or a bottle to avoid a fire. If the pump is not working then it must be replaced as there are no rebuilds for it. If its working then squirt a litlle fuel into the carbs of the dead cylinders to see if they will fire. They will only run for a few seconds this way but its important to try. If they don't fire it could be a couple of bad plugs. Change plugs and try again because it may solve the problem and its simple. If this doesn't work then its in the carbs. I assume you put them back together right. It could be one of two things. The needle valves could be stuck in the seats. I have had this happen to me after I filled my sled with fuel containing ethanol and let it sit for only a couple of weeks. Remove and clean. These carbs have a tiny metal screen above the needle and seat right below the inlet. I removed this after I was advised by another member here. You have to remove the brass seat to get at this. Its best to completely remove the rack of carbs from the machine to do this. I tried it without removing the cables and twisting the carbs upside down. It went OK for 3 carbs but I dropped the needle of the 4th and ended up spending a couple of hours seaching for it in the belly pan. It was between the chaincase and the bulkhead. Good Luck.
fuel problem
I forgot the first and easiest thing to try. Its easiest with the airbox off but not essential. With the engine running on 2 cylinders place your hand over the mouth of the carbs of the nonfiring cylinders for a few seconds one at a time. Look inthe carb and you should see gas that has been sucked into the venturi in front of the slide. With the intake blocked this way a lot of fuel will be siphoned thru the needle jet and it will be very easy to see. If you see lots of fuel then start by changing plugs.
I forgot the first and easiest thing to try. Its easiest with the airbox off but not essential. With the engine running on 2 cylinders place your hand over the mouth of the carbs of the nonfiring cylinders for a few seconds one at a time. Look inthe carb and you should see gas that has been sucked into the venturi in front of the slide. With the intake blocked this way a lot of fuel will be siphoned thru the needle jet and it will be very easy to see. If you see lots of fuel then start by changing plugs.
RxThunder
Expert
Im positive I reassembled the inside of the carbs correctly. The two non firing carbs are both supplied by the same fuel pump. (facing forward its the left 2 carbs) Also the sled was firing on all 4 before I took the carbs off, I had to remove them due to a screw that fell out of the throttle bracket so i figured I would clean them while I was at it. I did the hand over the carb trick and the two right cylinders both suck hard and the engine starts to stall when I do it. The left two carbs very slightly suck but with no change at all to the way the engine is running. I was planning on changing plugs after I had it running again.
Tomorrow I plan on changing plugs, checking for fuel flow from the pump and trying the hand over the carb trick again on the two non firing carbs. I'm almost positive its a fuel issue. If the pump is good and the plugs don't change anything I'm going to be doing a lot of head scratching..help, ideas, and tips are GREATLY appreciated.
Tomorrow I plan on changing plugs, checking for fuel flow from the pump and trying the hand over the carb trick again on the two non firing carbs. I'm almost positive its a fuel issue. If the pump is good and the plugs don't change anything I'm going to be doing a lot of head scratching..help, ideas, and tips are GREATLY appreciated.
RxThunder
Expert
So this morning I covered the inlet for all 4 carbs one at a time. They all have fuel sucking through them onto my hand when I covered them up. So I went and changed the spark plugs and still no difference, it'll fire right up but is not running right at all. Also tried disconnecting the tors system to eliminate that concern and still no change. I guess I should pull the carbs again and look for a mistake on my part?
livinlife
Extreme
Try swapping the coils around and see if dead cyl. change positions? maybe coils need cleaning. maybe condensation causing coils to short out????
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
when you disconnect the tors wires, plug the 2 from the harness into each other, male and female, to complete the circut and bypass it. the 2 wires on the carb dont matter. verify that you have fuel pumping from both pumps. if you only removed the bowls and not the jets then i doubt the carbs are the problem. if you removed jets, verify they are not reversed, (starter and main). check clear vent lines are not blocked or kinked.
RxThunder
Expert
I just removed the bowls to make sure I reassembled it correctly. I did have the jets out but I only removed them one at a time and cleaned them and put the back in how they were. I am getting fuel from both pumps and to each of the carbs. I have the tors wires from the harness plugged into each other to complete the circuit also. And the clear vent lines are disconnected so its just the black elbow sticking up. I put the carb rack back on and back together and fired it up, this time it sounds like its hitting on all four but when you give it any throttle it makes a wah wah wah wah sound almost like it is being restricted and then it backfires with a bang and shoots flames out the exhaust. Like I said it was running okay before I had to take the carb rack off, I keep thinking its something I did but I have triple checked everything and cant find a problem.
livinlife
Extreme
My rx did the same thing to me once. found it to be the coils arcing and shorting. cleaned em good with brake cleaner and seald them with dielectric grease. ran like a champ. problem happened like yours did, did something totally unrelated to the coils and all of a sudden i had a prob. don't know if this is your problem but it was my experiace. hope it helps and you figure it out. can be very frustrating and agravating.
RxThunder
Expert
I'll try the coils out of my other RX in it to see if it changes anything. And yes it can be very frustrating. Im sitting here trying to figure it out in my head and watching snocross on tv lol
RxThunder
Expert
I tried the coils from my other sled, didn't change it at all. Now it seems to be close to normal at idle, but when I give it some throttle it revs up and gets to a certain rpm and start sputtering and dying out. Is it possible that the carbs are out of sync and causing this?
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
it is not uncommon to need to clean carbs twice. 1st time will break something loose. and the 2nd most common is the TORS, wires crossed?
RxThunder
Expert
I think the carbs may just be way out of sync, adjusting the crews by ear I can get it to run better but around 4000-5000 rpm it still cuts out and sputters. Could it be possible that the carbs are that out of sync? If so how should I go about syncing them?
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
You would need to purchase a manometer (think that is what it is called) to set them. I've always had it done on the TY rides for free. It always makes mine idle smoother, and start easier, but is all it would do for my sled.
RxThunder
Expert
I think I have narrowed it down to the carbs being way out of synce from when I had to seperate the carbs from each other. I'm going to see if I can come up with something to measure the gap tomorrow and sync them that way. Hopefully I can come up with something cheap and easy to do it.
