freelheeler
Pro
i'm new to the nos world and need a bit of assistance
-aftermarket engine studs? who uses them and are the stock ones crap?
-head gasket stock or aftermarket?
i'm talking with a dealer from 'cb performance' and they claim new studs and gasket are a must i'm only wanting to run 40-50 hp?
what works and what causes them to blow, how many miles do you have with nos??
thanks
-aftermarket engine studs? who uses them and are the stock ones crap?
-head gasket stock or aftermarket?
i'm talking with a dealer from 'cb performance' and they claim new studs and gasket are a must i'm only wanting to run 40-50 hp?
what works and what causes them to blow, how many miles do you have with nos??
thanks
kinger
VIP Member
Welcome to N2O not 'nos' that is a brand name unless your a fast and furious star.
CB runs a NX based kit and thier kit uses hp measured at the wheels of a car so on a snowmobile a 40hp shot would mean 40 hp to the wheels of a car with approx 17%-22% drivetrain loss so the actual shot of thier kit is around 47-55hp vs snowmobile specific kits that measure at the clutch.
That said running head studs is optional for the lowest hp shot on thier kit, but they were lifting the head (my head on my sled, I bought it from them) with a 80+ shot, others on here lifted the head on a 80+ shot and therefore would require new arp head studs and tq'ing down to 45 ft-lbs. With that said TQ'ing to 45 ft-lbs is about the max the block can withstand before you strip the head stud out and then your screwed!
Others including have run 40-60hp shots from the kit with stock studs and no issues. I had to rebuild my sled last year due to a different problem and I TQ'd mine down with stock studs and new gasket using Ted Jenatty's method. I plan to only run 40 hp shot this year.
The 80 is to insane and uses a lot of nitrous.
Summary 40hp is fine on CB's kit with stock everything. Bruce has a lot of experience in it though so dont think he is trying to sell you snake oil. He may just be thinking that you will upgrade to a 80 hp shot someday and want to have your engine prepped for that.
CB runs a NX based kit and thier kit uses hp measured at the wheels of a car so on a snowmobile a 40hp shot would mean 40 hp to the wheels of a car with approx 17%-22% drivetrain loss so the actual shot of thier kit is around 47-55hp vs snowmobile specific kits that measure at the clutch.
That said running head studs is optional for the lowest hp shot on thier kit, but they were lifting the head (my head on my sled, I bought it from them) with a 80+ shot, others on here lifted the head on a 80+ shot and therefore would require new arp head studs and tq'ing down to 45 ft-lbs. With that said TQ'ing to 45 ft-lbs is about the max the block can withstand before you strip the head stud out and then your screwed!
Others including have run 40-60hp shots from the kit with stock studs and no issues. I had to rebuild my sled last year due to a different problem and I TQ'd mine down with stock studs and new gasket using Ted Jenatty's method. I plan to only run 40 hp shot this year.
The 80 is to insane and uses a lot of nitrous.
Summary 40hp is fine on CB's kit with stock everything. Bruce has a lot of experience in it though so dont think he is trying to sell you snake oil. He may just be thinking that you will upgrade to a 80 hp shot someday and want to have your engine prepped for that.
But it isnt that much work to change the gasket and the studs
kinger
VIP Member
Uhhh your kidding right? Its basically a complete teardown, your 2 bolts away from removing the entire engine. Also you need to know how to set the cam timing, etc that comes with removing a head on a DOHC engine.
I have done a engine swap twice now and I could probaby get the engine out in around 4 hours, disassemble the head in about another 1-2, then re-do it and back in, probably 8-10 hours minimum and pray you dont strip out the block with the ARP studs tq'ed to 45 ft-lb which is right at the edge where others have stripped the threads.
I wouldn't say its not worth it for peace of mind but i would NOT say its 'EASY'
I have done a engine swap twice now and I could probaby get the engine out in around 4 hours, disassemble the head in about another 1-2, then re-do it and back in, probably 8-10 hours minimum and pray you dont strip out the block with the ARP studs tq'ed to 45 ft-lb which is right at the edge where others have stripped the threads.
I wouldn't say its not worth it for peace of mind but i would NOT say its 'EASY'
freelheeler
Pro
always thought nos sounded better than n20??
the stud replacement concerns me i work on my sled a good bit but recognize that replacing the studs is probably over my head. so it would need to go to the shop and bam i'm into a big bill.
my hope was to run the smaller shot say 30-40hp and be able to bolt on the kit. if it requires a complete tear down of the engine i'm probably going to hold off and pick a blower down the road??
however the idea of a virtual stock sled with a little button to get thru the tuff stuff is ideal. plus being able to run 87 fuel thru the main tank.
any other issues to be aware of?? thanks
the stud replacement concerns me i work on my sled a good bit but recognize that replacing the studs is probably over my head. so it would need to go to the shop and bam i'm into a big bill.
my hope was to run the smaller shot say 30-40hp and be able to bolt on the kit. if it requires a complete tear down of the engine i'm probably going to hold off and pick a blower down the road??
however the idea of a virtual stock sled with a little button to get thru the tuff stuff is ideal. plus being able to run 87 fuel thru the main tank.
any other issues to be aware of?? thanks
kinger
VIP Member
Noep great kit, dont worry about the 40 shot, if you look online there are vendors that offer other nozzles for the nx based kits that would allow possibly a 30-35shot. Most around here will say up to 60 with that kit on stock gear and your fine.
Trying to be ironic, but my english isnt so good.
I am also near to order a N2O system, and after reading Kinger's tread (http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=47795) I was conviced on what system to buy.
Just waitng for the money!!
I am also near to order a N2O system, and after reading Kinger's tread (http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=47795) I was conviced on what system to buy.
Just waitng for the money!!
so whats the best / simplest system?
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