rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
They have figured that the Viper/Nytro engine creates enough vacuum to skip the trociod pump they used earlier. Many Nytro guys have already deleted the pump in their rear Mount Nytros.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
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- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 13. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Installing engine into the frame.
We hoisted the engine back in position and bolted it to the frame on the two front engine mounts.
Hooking up oil and coolant pipes.
This pipe at the rear of the engine is a bit tricky to get installed. Remove the hose at one end of the pipe and thread it in Place from the oil tank side.
I replaced the Stock ski-doo type clamps With real hose clamps.
I had to apply some pressure to the rear engine Mount, using a crowbar, to push the engine far enough forward to get the bolts in.
The engine is in and bolted to the frame.
The Stock aluminum coolant pipe has been replaced by a silicon hose to make room for the Intercooler.
The hose is rubbing against the engine and a Sharp edge on the frame. This is taken care of by adding a piece of hose, cut open, to the Silicon hose. To take care of the Sharp edge I add another piece of thin hose to the Sharp edge on the frame.
Checked the tork of the spark plugs and installed the coils.
Connected the coolant hose to the engine.
We hoisted the engine back in position and bolted it to the frame on the two front engine mounts.
Hooking up oil and coolant pipes.
This pipe at the rear of the engine is a bit tricky to get installed. Remove the hose at one end of the pipe and thread it in Place from the oil tank side.
I replaced the Stock ski-doo type clamps With real hose clamps.
I had to apply some pressure to the rear engine Mount, using a crowbar, to push the engine far enough forward to get the bolts in.
The engine is in and bolted to the frame.
The Stock aluminum coolant pipe has been replaced by a silicon hose to make room for the Intercooler.
The hose is rubbing against the engine and a Sharp edge on the frame. This is taken care of by adding a piece of hose, cut open, to the Silicon hose. To take care of the Sharp edge I add another piece of thin hose to the Sharp edge on the frame.
Checked the tork of the spark plugs and installed the coils.
Connected the coolant hose to the engine.
helmic
Expert
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- 2014 Apex SE STUDED,PC5,D&D Performance Exhaust,MAX-REV intakes,D&D BullsEyes,Ulmer clutch kit.Yurbo coming soon!!!
turbo
Man that is nice work!! Keep up the good work buddy, and again happy "B" Day..Don't work to hard.
Man that is nice work!! Keep up the good work buddy, and again happy "B" Day..Don't work to hard.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thanks Perry
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 14. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Installing vacuum lines to the fuel rail, coolant and oil lines, frame parts.
Now it's time to install the vacuum lines to the fuel rail, the lines will feed vacuum to the BOV and MCX EFI Box.
The vacuum lines are Connected like shown in the pic, but I prefer to install zip-ties all over to make sure they will never jump off.
Zip-ties cut Down and vacuum lines are installed to the fuel rail.
The fuel rail is installed to the cylinder head intake.
It's a good idea to install the throttle cable at this time, it's much harder later on.
How do I know, forgot to install it and now there's a Buch of wireing and stuff in the way LOL
Routing the wireing.... it's a mess. Luckily I have shot a lot of pics at the tear Down, the pics come in handy when trying to figure out where it all Connects.
I did a mistake installing the right hand side horizontal frame piece.
I forgot that the vertical frame support holding the twin spar goes behind the horizontal piece, bummer.
A New magneto cover cap comes With the kit. Probably because of the heat from the exhaust system running a turbo system.
Installed the twin spar frame parts.
As you can see the vertical aluminum frame piece goes behind the vertical one :-(
But now I know and I won't do that mistake again.
Now it's time to install the vacuum lines to the fuel rail, the lines will feed vacuum to the BOV and MCX EFI Box.
The vacuum lines are Connected like shown in the pic, but I prefer to install zip-ties all over to make sure they will never jump off.
Zip-ties cut Down and vacuum lines are installed to the fuel rail.
The fuel rail is installed to the cylinder head intake.
It's a good idea to install the throttle cable at this time, it's much harder later on.
How do I know, forgot to install it and now there's a Buch of wireing and stuff in the way LOL
Routing the wireing.... it's a mess. Luckily I have shot a lot of pics at the tear Down, the pics come in handy when trying to figure out where it all Connects.
I did a mistake installing the right hand side horizontal frame piece.
I forgot that the vertical frame support holding the twin spar goes behind the horizontal piece, bummer.
A New magneto cover cap comes With the kit. Probably because of the heat from the exhaust system running a turbo system.
Installed the twin spar frame parts.
As you can see the vertical aluminum frame piece goes behind the vertical one :-(
But now I know and I won't do that mistake again.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 15. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Installing frame parts and wireing.
Tighten up the frame parts.
Installed wireing, sort of, it's a mess still.
Connected the ignition wires to the coils. Should have Connected the throttle cable, but forgot about it.
Installed the crank vent air Box to the frame.
Connected all coolant and oil lines.
Tighten up the frame parts.
Installed wireing, sort of, it's a mess still.
Connected the ignition wires to the coils. Should have Connected the throttle cable, but forgot about it.
Installed the crank vent air Box to the frame.
Connected all coolant and oil lines.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 16. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Installing exhaust pipe, heat Shields, turbo, oil feed and Return lines.
Installed the Stock exhaust header.
Installed the heat Shield covering the exhaust header.
Removed the air temp sensor from the Stock air Box and zip-tied it to the wireing harness rear of the coolant tank, Connected it to the harness.
Installed the MCX EFI Controller, two rubber coated clamps is holding it to the frame.
Connected the MCX EFI Controller to the Stock wireing harness. It's going in-between the large Connector on the Stock wireing harness. The grey Connectors are on the Stock wireing harness, the black Connectors are on the MCX EFI Controller harness.
Connected the MCX EFI Controller ground wire to the frame. Close to where the Stock wireing harness ground is Connected.
Installing turbo to the mounting bracket coming With the kit. The monting bracket is using the same mounting Points as the Stock exhaust muffler used. I removed the Stock rubber pads from the Stock exhaust muffler and installed them on the MCX mounting bracket.
I was not able to install the nut, there was not enough Space to get the nut to enter the threads.
To remedy the problem I used a solid steel bar and a Heavy hammer and hit the tube Close to where the nut is positioned. A few rounds of hitting and the nut finally entered the threads, problem solved.
Here's a few pics of the turbo and bracket mounted together, shot from different angles to give a good view of the pieces.
Before installing the turbo and bracket to the exhaust header I had to make a temporary install of the turbo to the frame. I did not Connect the exhaust header at this time. With the turbo in Place I placed the exhaust muffler snug onto the turbo outlet, I did not install the the bolts at this time. I held the muffler in Place and checked whether the exhaust muffler outlet pipe was centered relative to the hole in the chassis.
This is how it should look like if mounted correctly.
I found that the easiest way was to tight up the M12 bolts holding the turbo to the only slightly but tight enough that the turbo is not moving on the Mount. With the turbo and bracket in Place I checked the positioning of the muffler outlet relative to the hole underneat. It was a bit off center. I turned the turbo, and it moved on the Mount, until the exhaust outlet piped was dead center. I carefully removed the turbo and placed it on my workbench, then tightened the M12 bolts to approx 60Nm. Reinstalled the turbo and checked the exhaust once more, done.
Installed the turbo to the exhaust header.
Removed the exhaust muffler, it's going in on later.
Connected the oil Return line to the turbo and the magneto cover. It goes where the small plastic cap where you check the timing mark one the flywheel and motor used to be.
Installed the oil feed line coming from the motor....NONONONONO - THIS IS WRONG
I did not read the install manual carefully enough.
The feed line will be too Close to the red hot turbo and exhaust parts.
Removed the oil feed line and rerouted it up between the turbo and the engine, and then installed it on top of the turbo.
Pic is shot from directly overhead standing on the right hand side of the sled.
Pic shot from the front of the sled.
So far so good, more to come.
Next is finishing off the exhaust muffler.....
Installed the Stock exhaust header.
Installed the heat Shield covering the exhaust header.
Removed the air temp sensor from the Stock air Box and zip-tied it to the wireing harness rear of the coolant tank, Connected it to the harness.
Installed the MCX EFI Controller, two rubber coated clamps is holding it to the frame.
Connected the MCX EFI Controller to the Stock wireing harness. It's going in-between the large Connector on the Stock wireing harness. The grey Connectors are on the Stock wireing harness, the black Connectors are on the MCX EFI Controller harness.
Connected the MCX EFI Controller ground wire to the frame. Close to where the Stock wireing harness ground is Connected.
Installing turbo to the mounting bracket coming With the kit. The monting bracket is using the same mounting Points as the Stock exhaust muffler used. I removed the Stock rubber pads from the Stock exhaust muffler and installed them on the MCX mounting bracket.
I was not able to install the nut, there was not enough Space to get the nut to enter the threads.
To remedy the problem I used a solid steel bar and a Heavy hammer and hit the tube Close to where the nut is positioned. A few rounds of hitting and the nut finally entered the threads, problem solved.
Here's a few pics of the turbo and bracket mounted together, shot from different angles to give a good view of the pieces.
Before installing the turbo and bracket to the exhaust header I had to make a temporary install of the turbo to the frame. I did not Connect the exhaust header at this time. With the turbo in Place I placed the exhaust muffler snug onto the turbo outlet, I did not install the the bolts at this time. I held the muffler in Place and checked whether the exhaust muffler outlet pipe was centered relative to the hole in the chassis.
This is how it should look like if mounted correctly.
I found that the easiest way was to tight up the M12 bolts holding the turbo to the only slightly but tight enough that the turbo is not moving on the Mount. With the turbo and bracket in Place I checked the positioning of the muffler outlet relative to the hole underneat. It was a bit off center. I turned the turbo, and it moved on the Mount, until the exhaust outlet piped was dead center. I carefully removed the turbo and placed it on my workbench, then tightened the M12 bolts to approx 60Nm. Reinstalled the turbo and checked the exhaust once more, done.
Installed the turbo to the exhaust header.
Removed the exhaust muffler, it's going in on later.
Connected the oil Return line to the turbo and the magneto cover. It goes where the small plastic cap where you check the timing mark one the flywheel and motor used to be.
Installed the oil feed line coming from the motor....NONONONONO - THIS IS WRONG
I did not read the install manual carefully enough.
The feed line will be too Close to the red hot turbo and exhaust parts.
Removed the oil feed line and rerouted it up between the turbo and the engine, and then installed it on top of the turbo.
Pic is shot from directly overhead standing on the right hand side of the sled.
Pic shot from the front of the sled.
So far so good, more to come.
Next is finishing off the exhaust muffler.....
le700
Expert
Looks good, but is that metal shavings inside the turbo?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Hahaha you spotted it too - LOL
Actually I saw that on here as well, went straight out in the garage and cleaned it up.
It has to be from the Production process as I have not drilled anything on this install, strange.
Glad I found it.
Thanks for the heads up.
Actually I saw that on here as well, went straight out in the garage and cleaned it up.
It has to be from the Production process as I have not drilled anything on this install, strange.
Glad I found it.
Thanks for the heads up.
le700
Expert
yeah, that is something you don't want in there.. not good.
btw: how did you connect the boost gauge on the blue one? I'm thinking about the electric wiring.
I tried looking on the electric spread sheet, and connected mine to the yellow and black on the headlight/meter wiring loom, but it only works when the high beam is on.. I was thinking that I have to move it and maybe tap into the 12v electric outlet socket, with a connector.. any thoughts?
btw: how did you connect the boost gauge on the blue one? I'm thinking about the electric wiring.
I tried looking on the electric spread sheet, and connected mine to the yellow and black on the headlight/meter wiring loom, but it only works when the high beam is on.. I was thinking that I have to move it and maybe tap into the 12v electric outlet socket, with a connector.. any thoughts?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Light for the meter, positive lead red/white to the ignition key switch will work.
le700
Expert
Thanks
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 16. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Installing more heat shields, coolant tubes and hoses.
Like said in an earlier post I went out and cleaned the turbo air intake.
Thanks le700 for the heads up
I used double sided tape and mounted heat shielding fabric coated With reflective aluminum layer.
This fabric will not burn no matter what. Used aluminum tape for extra Security to make sure the fabric will not come loose.
Mounted the Stock and MCXpress O2 sensors.
I made heat protection for the Stock sensor wireing out of the heat same Shield fabric using a stapling machine.
Finally I used aluminum tape for extra shielding. Will make the same heat Shield for the MCX sensor later.
EDIT:
DO NOT INSTALL THE O2 SENSORS AT THIS TIME. YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE EXHAUST MUFFLER TO INSTALL HEAT SHIELD BEHIND THE EXHAUST MUFFLER.
Connected the sensor to the Stock harness.
When installing the heat Shield over the exhaust header I forgot to Mount it With this screw.
This screw is supposed to hold both the exhaust heat Shield and the oil vent Box.
It was a pain to get the bolt holes both Shields and frame to line up, I had to loosen all screws holding the exhaust header heat shild to make the bolt holes line up. This is different from earlier Yamahas, Apex and Nytro where everything is perfectly desinged and easy to install.
Installed the heat Shield on the outside of the exhaust muffler.
EDIT:
DO NOT INSTALL THIS SHIELD AT THIS TIME.
YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE IT TO CHECK FOR OIL PRESSURE AT THE TURBO OIL OUTLET ON THE FIRST START-UP.
INSTALL IT WHEN ALL SYSTEMS ARE UP AND RUNNING, COOLANT IS CHECKED, OIL IS CHECKED.
The Stock vent pipe going from the oil vent Box is replaced With a New pipe coming With the kit.
It Connects to the air intake hose between turbo and air filter. Changed the Ski-Doo type hose clamp With a real hose clamp. I have chenged many but not all of them... should have.
Installed the vent line going from cylinder head to the nipple on the New oil vent Box.
Installing the intake air hose and rubber ring. The rubber ring is a support for the air filter and hose to keep them from bouncing around when riding.
Air filter and intake air hose clamped Down.
Installing throttle cable, adjusted free play at 2-3 mm at the throttle lever gap.
I have made a special tool for removal and mounting of the throttle cable from an old screwdriver. It also Works well as a spring puller.
Connected the vacuum/pressure line to the MCX EFI Box and the Blow-Off Valve.
And then I found a small plastic bag containing a small hose, a aluminum nipple and a piece of paper With some info on Upgrades done to the MCX Turbo Install Manual... the paper was not readable from the outside of the bag....BUMMER
Well here's the paper With modifications to the turbo install.
I will update the Install manual posted earlier.
The Translation is found in the MCX Viper 270 Turbo Install post posted earlier on page 70.
I had to remove the O2 sensors and the exhaust muffler to be able to add more heat shield insulation between the engine and exhaust muffler. I also rerouted the oil feed line and zip-tied in Place.
The heat Shield fabric on the Hood piece is removed and mounted to the horizontal aluminum frame piece.
Shown in the pic below.
Will update this NeXT. Changed my mind.
I kept the fabric in it's original Place, it's needed to protect the Hood.
In stead I made a New heat Shield from a similar type of non-flammable aluminum coated fabric.
I made the New piece doble for better heat shielding and placed it behind the exhaust muffler.
Like said in an earlier post I went out and cleaned the turbo air intake.
Thanks le700 for the heads up
I used double sided tape and mounted heat shielding fabric coated With reflective aluminum layer.
This fabric will not burn no matter what. Used aluminum tape for extra Security to make sure the fabric will not come loose.
Mounted the Stock and MCXpress O2 sensors.
I made heat protection for the Stock sensor wireing out of the heat same Shield fabric using a stapling machine.
Finally I used aluminum tape for extra shielding. Will make the same heat Shield for the MCX sensor later.
EDIT:
DO NOT INSTALL THE O2 SENSORS AT THIS TIME. YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE EXHAUST MUFFLER TO INSTALL HEAT SHIELD BEHIND THE EXHAUST MUFFLER.
Connected the sensor to the Stock harness.
When installing the heat Shield over the exhaust header I forgot to Mount it With this screw.
This screw is supposed to hold both the exhaust heat Shield and the oil vent Box.
It was a pain to get the bolt holes both Shields and frame to line up, I had to loosen all screws holding the exhaust header heat shild to make the bolt holes line up. This is different from earlier Yamahas, Apex and Nytro where everything is perfectly desinged and easy to install.
Installed the heat Shield on the outside of the exhaust muffler.
EDIT:
DO NOT INSTALL THIS SHIELD AT THIS TIME.
YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE IT TO CHECK FOR OIL PRESSURE AT THE TURBO OIL OUTLET ON THE FIRST START-UP.
INSTALL IT WHEN ALL SYSTEMS ARE UP AND RUNNING, COOLANT IS CHECKED, OIL IS CHECKED.
The Stock vent pipe going from the oil vent Box is replaced With a New pipe coming With the kit.
It Connects to the air intake hose between turbo and air filter. Changed the Ski-Doo type hose clamp With a real hose clamp. I have chenged many but not all of them... should have.
Installed the vent line going from cylinder head to the nipple on the New oil vent Box.
Installing the intake air hose and rubber ring. The rubber ring is a support for the air filter and hose to keep them from bouncing around when riding.
Air filter and intake air hose clamped Down.
Installing throttle cable, adjusted free play at 2-3 mm at the throttle lever gap.
I have made a special tool for removal and mounting of the throttle cable from an old screwdriver. It also Works well as a spring puller.
Connected the vacuum/pressure line to the MCX EFI Box and the Blow-Off Valve.
And then I found a small plastic bag containing a small hose, a aluminum nipple and a piece of paper With some info on Upgrades done to the MCX Turbo Install Manual... the paper was not readable from the outside of the bag....BUMMER
Well here's the paper With modifications to the turbo install.
I will update the Install manual posted earlier.
The Translation is found in the MCX Viper 270 Turbo Install post posted earlier on page 70.
I had to remove the O2 sensors and the exhaust muffler to be able to add more heat shield insulation between the engine and exhaust muffler. I also rerouted the oil feed line and zip-tied in Place.
The heat Shield fabric on the Hood piece is removed and mounted to the horizontal aluminum frame piece.
Shown in the pic below.
Will update this NeXT. Changed my mind.
I kept the fabric in it's original Place, it's needed to protect the Hood.
In stead I made a New heat Shield from a similar type of non-flammable aluminum coated fabric.
I made the New piece doble for better heat shielding and placed it behind the exhaust muffler.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 21. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Installing exhaust muffler, O2 sensors, Intercooler and Charge tube hose.
With the heat shielding material in Place behind the exhaust muffler I installed the exhaust muffler.
Forgot to shoot a pic before I installed the heat Shield, but you get the Picture.
Added insulation to both the Stock and MCX O2 sensor.
Now is the time to install the O2 sensors
EDIT:
DO NOT INSTALL THE HEAT SHEILD AT THIS TIME EITHER.....
YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE IT TO CHECK FOR OIL PRESSURE AT THE TURBO OIL OUTLET ON STARTUP.
Installed the InterCooler.
Had to re-route the harness behind the primary clutch to make room for the IC install.
I used Heavy duty zip ties (1/2" or 12 mm wide) to clamp Down the IC to prevent it from blowing off the throttle bodies.
After the IC install I found that the right hand side injector cable and Connector was touching the steering post, not good.
I fixed the problem using duct tape on the post itself. I also found a position where neither the injector Connector and electrical wire were not touching With room to spare Used duct tape to secure the wire and injector in Place.
Installed the Silicon charge tube to the IC. It's a pain to get it mounted, very little room Down there.... done.
Installed the charge tube to the turbo.
Of course the silicone charge tube was also touching the steering post.
Fixed this problem by using two of my Heavy duty zip-ties.
Installed the zip-ties Close together at the point where the charge tube touched the steering post and clamped them Down. It worked, not touching. The zip-ties is keeping the charge tube from ballooing when pressurized. At the same time it's the zip-ties that is touching the steering post, problem solved.
I Connected the red/black wire at the EFI Box to the red/black wire on the IC plenum injectors.
OBS! THIS IS WRONG.
The Orange/black wire is going to the IC plenum injectors.
The long black/red wire is going to the TCV.
WARNING - what's in this pic is wrong. The colors used on the wireing is misleading.
Found the fault described above when installing the wire to the TCV.... it was obviously too short LOL.
It's all in the NeXT post.
With the heat shielding material in Place behind the exhaust muffler I installed the exhaust muffler.
Forgot to shoot a pic before I installed the heat Shield, but you get the Picture.
Added insulation to both the Stock and MCX O2 sensor.
Now is the time to install the O2 sensors
EDIT:
DO NOT INSTALL THE HEAT SHEILD AT THIS TIME EITHER.....
YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE IT TO CHECK FOR OIL PRESSURE AT THE TURBO OIL OUTLET ON STARTUP.
Installed the InterCooler.
Had to re-route the harness behind the primary clutch to make room for the IC install.
I used Heavy duty zip ties (1/2" or 12 mm wide) to clamp Down the IC to prevent it from blowing off the throttle bodies.
After the IC install I found that the right hand side injector cable and Connector was touching the steering post, not good.
I fixed the problem using duct tape on the post itself. I also found a position where neither the injector Connector and electrical wire were not touching With room to spare Used duct tape to secure the wire and injector in Place.
Installed the Silicon charge tube to the IC. It's a pain to get it mounted, very little room Down there.... done.
Installed the charge tube to the turbo.
Of course the silicone charge tube was also touching the steering post.
Fixed this problem by using two of my Heavy duty zip-ties.
Installed the zip-ties Close together at the point where the charge tube touched the steering post and clamped them Down. It worked, not touching. The zip-ties is keeping the charge tube from ballooing when pressurized. At the same time it's the zip-ties that is touching the steering post, problem solved.
I Connected the red/black wire at the EFI Box to the red/black wire on the IC plenum injectors.
OBS! THIS IS WRONG.
The Orange/black wire is going to the IC plenum injectors.
The long black/red wire is going to the TCV.
WARNING - what's in this pic is wrong. The colors used on the wireing is misleading.
Found the fault described above when installing the wire to the TCV.... it was obviously too short LOL.
It's all in the NeXT post.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 22. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Installing radiator, fuel lines, fuel tank, battery and electrical wires.
Installed the radiator and Connected the coolant hoses and the wire to the fan.
Routed the O2 sensor wires on top of the oil pipe.
Installing the T on the Stock fuel line.
Cut the Stock fuel line like shown in the pic and install the T and New fuel line.
Connected the fuel line to the fuel rail and press the fuel filter in Place.
Installed the tank and connected the fuel line to the tank.
Installed the battery and connected the electrical wires to the battery and starter relay.
Secured all wires With zip-ties.
Hooked up the long Red/Black wire from the MCX EFI to the TCV.
Hooked up the short Orange/Black wire from the MCX EFI to the IC Plenum fuel injectors.
Secured the wires With zip-ties.
Routed the coolant overflow line Down rear of the radiator.
Next is adding coolant, oil and gasoline, preparing for startup.
Installed the radiator and Connected the coolant hoses and the wire to the fan.
Routed the O2 sensor wires on top of the oil pipe.
Installing the T on the Stock fuel line.
Cut the Stock fuel line like shown in the pic and install the T and New fuel line.
Connected the fuel line to the fuel rail and press the fuel filter in Place.
Installed the tank and connected the fuel line to the tank.
Installed the battery and connected the electrical wires to the battery and starter relay.
Secured all wires With zip-ties.
Hooked up the long Red/Black wire from the MCX EFI to the TCV.
Hooked up the short Orange/Black wire from the MCX EFI to the IC Plenum fuel injectors.
Secured the wires With zip-ties.
Routed the coolant overflow line Down rear of the radiator.
Next is adding coolant, oil and gasoline, preparing for startup.
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