rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - December 28. - Maintenance on my 2003 RX-1 Turbo Sled
Opened the seals on the Jackshaft and driveshaft bearings and added New grease.
Both bearings were still well lubed and in good shape.
Did some cleaning and installed the secondary clutch and clutch cover.
Pressed New grease into the front end spindles.
Checked the engine oil and Chain case oil. Both were ok, didn't have to add any.
Topped off the water/meth tank. Did a free air calibetion of my Innovate AFR meter sensor.
When done I hooked up the battery charger.
All it needs now is New fresh fuel and she's good to go.
I may go for a little test ride tomorrow
Opened the seals on the Jackshaft and driveshaft bearings and added New grease.
Both bearings were still well lubed and in good shape.
Did some cleaning and installed the secondary clutch and clutch cover.
Pressed New grease into the front end spindles.
Checked the engine oil and Chain case oil. Both were ok, didn't have to add any.
Topped off the water/meth tank. Did a free air calibetion of my Innovate AFR meter sensor.
When done I hooked up the battery charger.
All it needs now is New fresh fuel and she's good to go.
I may go for a little test ride tomorrow
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 3. - Installing MCX270 Turbo Kit - SR Viper
Got the sled in today.
Removed plastic covers.
Removed the seat.
Removed the tank covling, head light and lid.
It's very easy to remove the parts.
A few torx screws and all plastics and seat went off.
Great design work by Arctic Cat
It's an Arctic Cat after all
I hope to have the turbokit delivered in a few days time.
In the meantime I'll tear Down what's needed to continue the install.
I'll post pics later, gotta go.
More to come.
Got the sled in today.
Removed plastic covers.
Removed the seat.
Removed the tank covling, head light and lid.
It's very easy to remove the parts.
A few torx screws and all plastics and seat went off.
Great design work by Arctic Cat
It's an Arctic Cat after all
I hope to have the turbokit delivered in a few days time.
In the meantime I'll tear Down what's needed to continue the install.
I'll post pics later, gotta go.
More to come.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 7. - Installing MCX270 Turbo Kit - SR Viper
Got the turbo kit in this evening.
Here's a few pics of the kit.
I will post the Install manual when I get the time to scan it into my computer.
Got the turbo kit in this evening.
Here's a few pics of the kit.
I will post the Install manual when I get the time to scan it into my computer.
BADSLED
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2004
- Messages
- 1,355
- Location
- Syracuse, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Nytro MC Xpress 270
2011 Apex SE
2021 Sidewinder LTX SE - SOLD
Are they back to using the Green injectors? Hopefully they are Bosch brand..
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I'll have a look.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 8. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install Manual
Updates to the MCX Viper 270 Turbo Install Manual
READ THIS UPDATE CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU READ THE INSTALL MANUAL
TRANSLATION:
Viper Turbo Update
The Barometric Pressure Sensor mounted on top of the throttle bodies has to be pressurized from the InterCooler Plenum. This has to be done in order to prevent a lean condition riding at high elevation.
A nipple is mounted to the InterCooler Plenum, the threads are already made in the IC for this purpose.
The thin line enclosed With the kit Connects to the Baro sensor and the nipple.
I recommend removing the sensor from the throttle bodies for easy install.
Text to the Picture: Picture is from Viper 270 Turbo kit.
TRANSLATION:
The heat Shield fabric mounted to the Hood is preferably removed and mounted as a heat Shield between the engine and the exhaust muffler. Make a hole in the heat Shield fabric for the oil feed line.
The Original MCX Viper 270 Turbo Install Manual
Updates to the MCX Viper 270 Turbo Install Manual
READ THIS UPDATE CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU READ THE INSTALL MANUAL
TRANSLATION:
Viper Turbo Update
The Barometric Pressure Sensor mounted on top of the throttle bodies has to be pressurized from the InterCooler Plenum. This has to be done in order to prevent a lean condition riding at high elevation.
A nipple is mounted to the InterCooler Plenum, the threads are already made in the IC for this purpose.
The thin line enclosed With the kit Connects to the Baro sensor and the nipple.
I recommend removing the sensor from the throttle bodies for easy install.
Text to the Picture: Picture is from Viper 270 Turbo kit.
TRANSLATION:
The heat Shield fabric mounted to the Hood is preferably removed and mounted as a heat Shield between the engine and the exhaust muffler. Make a hole in the heat Shield fabric for the oil feed line.
The Original MCX Viper 270 Turbo Install Manual
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 8. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Tearing it apart.
Next is removing the gas tank.
Removing the frame over the tank.
Removed the muffler.
Next is removing the exhaust heat Shield.
Exhaust heat Shield removed. CAUTION the heat Shield is made from stamped aluminum parts, the edges are razor Sharp, how do I know, I cut myself hahahahaha taped up and back to work.
Next is removing the exaust pipe.
Exhaust pipe removed.
Removed the radiator and fan. While you're at it remove the aluminum coolant pipe going to the tunnel heat exchanger.
Dropped the coolant.
It helps open the coolant cap, drains faster
Removed the air Box.
Next is removing the crank vent Box.
Crank vent Box gone.
Disconnecting all electrics from the engine.
Disconnected the throttle cable. Full throttle, put a large flat screwdriver underneat the throttle lever, unhook the throttle wire from the lever.
Removed the secondary clutch and clutch Shield.
Removed the frame above and in front of the engine.
Removed the throttle bodies.
Zip-tied the steering post to the front end frame.
I have about 3 hours of work done so far. I'm in no hurry as it's the first time I take the SX Viper apart.
Next is removing the gas tank.
Removing the frame over the tank.
Removed the muffler.
Next is removing the exhaust heat Shield.
Exhaust heat Shield removed. CAUTION the heat Shield is made from stamped aluminum parts, the edges are razor Sharp, how do I know, I cut myself hahahahaha taped up and back to work.
Next is removing the exaust pipe.
Exhaust pipe removed.
Removed the radiator and fan. While you're at it remove the aluminum coolant pipe going to the tunnel heat exchanger.
Dropped the coolant.
It helps open the coolant cap, drains faster
Removed the air Box.
Next is removing the crank vent Box.
Crank vent Box gone.
Disconnecting all electrics from the engine.
Disconnected the throttle cable. Full throttle, put a large flat screwdriver underneat the throttle lever, unhook the throttle wire from the lever.
Removed the secondary clutch and clutch Shield.
Removed the frame above and in front of the engine.
Removed the throttle bodies.
Zip-tied the steering post to the front end frame.
I have about 3 hours of work done so far. I'm in no hurry as it's the first time I take the SX Viper apart.
Holy crap. And I was nervous adjusting the clutches. Will you be my friend?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
The engine is apart by now.
Will post more on the work in a few days time.
rxrider
Will post more on the work in a few days time.
rxrider
le700
Expert
Wow!! impressive as always.
I love Your work and the fact that you share, and keep this thread going strong.
I love Your work and the fact that you share, and keep this thread going strong.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
le700 - thank you
Tarzan
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2009
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- 861
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- 50
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- Norway
- Website
- www.youtube.com
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha Nytro and SideWinder BTX
Nice work and love that you take much pictures of the work!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 9. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Tearing it apart 2.
To be able to unhook all electrical wires, coolant and oil hoses from the engine I removed engine Mount bolts at the rear holding the engine to the frame. I left the front engine Mount bolts in and tilted the engine forward to get to the last few electrical Connections and hoses.
I used a strap and my Chain pulley to lift the engine out of the frame.
The engine on the workbench.
Before removing the engine I removed the frame piece on the right hands side of the engine.
I also partly removed the frame piece on the left hand side of the engine as seen in the pic below.
This has to be done to be able to lift the engine out of the chassis.
First turbo related work under way. The oil pressure sensor housing is removed from the engine.
A piece of the housing has to be cut off to make room for the oil pressure hose adaptor feeding oil to the turbo.
The piece cut of is missing in this pic, but it was cut off at the right hand side of the housing.
The housing and adaptor is back on the engine.
Remember to add loctite on the threads prior to installing the adaptor.
The aluminum pipe going from the tunnel heat exchanger to the radiator in the nose of the sled has to be replaced With a Silicon hose coming With the kit. The pipe has to go to make room for the intercooler.
The aluminum pipe removed.
The hose is Connected to the heat exchanger in the rear.
And lated it's going to be Connected to the radiator in the front of the sled.
Time to remove the cylinder head.
First, remove the cam Chain tensioner.
Remove the cams and bolts holding the head in Place. Remove the old head gasket.
Cylinderhead on the workbench. I have removed the cups and shims, going to adjust the valve clearance later.
I cleaned all surfaces on cylinder Block and head carefully and installed the head gasket shim coming With the kit.
Compression has to the reduced to be able to run 270 HP on Premium pump fuel.
Zip-tied the cam Chain to the engine to keep it from falling into the engine.
I also made an engine stand to make it easier to work on the Nytro/Viper engine. A few pieces of Wood can make Wonders
Time for a valve clearance check.
I have made a cylinder head stand to make it easier to work on the cylinder head, made of Wood of course
The MCX Install Manual Calls for two valve clearance checks.
One at the start of the install, when you first remove the cylinder head, and one after you have installed the head gasket shim and cams.
This is very important as engine damage will occur if one or more shims are out of position or the valve clearance is out of specifiations.
To be able to unhook all electrical wires, coolant and oil hoses from the engine I removed engine Mount bolts at the rear holding the engine to the frame. I left the front engine Mount bolts in and tilted the engine forward to get to the last few electrical Connections and hoses.
I used a strap and my Chain pulley to lift the engine out of the frame.
The engine on the workbench.
Before removing the engine I removed the frame piece on the right hands side of the engine.
I also partly removed the frame piece on the left hand side of the engine as seen in the pic below.
This has to be done to be able to lift the engine out of the chassis.
First turbo related work under way. The oil pressure sensor housing is removed from the engine.
A piece of the housing has to be cut off to make room for the oil pressure hose adaptor feeding oil to the turbo.
The piece cut of is missing in this pic, but it was cut off at the right hand side of the housing.
The housing and adaptor is back on the engine.
Remember to add loctite on the threads prior to installing the adaptor.
The aluminum pipe going from the tunnel heat exchanger to the radiator in the nose of the sled has to be replaced With a Silicon hose coming With the kit. The pipe has to go to make room for the intercooler.
The aluminum pipe removed.
The hose is Connected to the heat exchanger in the rear.
And lated it's going to be Connected to the radiator in the front of the sled.
Time to remove the cylinder head.
First, remove the cam Chain tensioner.
Remove the cams and bolts holding the head in Place. Remove the old head gasket.
Cylinderhead on the workbench. I have removed the cups and shims, going to adjust the valve clearance later.
I cleaned all surfaces on cylinder Block and head carefully and installed the head gasket shim coming With the kit.
Compression has to the reduced to be able to run 270 HP on Premium pump fuel.
Zip-tied the cam Chain to the engine to keep it from falling into the engine.
I also made an engine stand to make it easier to work on the Nytro/Viper engine. A few pieces of Wood can make Wonders
Time for a valve clearance check.
I have made a cylinder head stand to make it easier to work on the cylinder head, made of Wood of course
The MCX Install Manual Calls for two valve clearance checks.
One at the start of the install, when you first remove the cylinder head, and one after you have installed the head gasket shim and cams.
This is very important as engine damage will occur if one or more shims are out of position or the valve clearance is out of specifiations.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - January 12. - SR Viper MCX270 Turbo Kit Install - Checking valve clearance.
I have the cylinder head on the custom made wooden stand.
The valve shims, buckets and cams are back in.
It's way easier to rotate the cams without having to rotate the pistons to overcome the compression.
Took note of all shims before reinstalling them into the cylinder head.
Measured all clearances.
Intake was pretty good, no need to adjust.
Exhaust was a bit tight on two valves and a bit too tight on one of the valves.
Adjusted the clearance by replacing shims With thinner to get the proper clearance.
The cams went on again and another pass of measurements were done, and it was done all OK.
Cleaned the sufaces of the cylinder head.
Make sure you do not tilt the cylinder head above 60 degree or you may have a valve shim move out of position while cleaning the cylinder head.
Installed the cylinder head onto the engine Block, tightened to spec, 20Nm, then 40Nm and finally 60Nm.
Let the bolts sit for a while a few minutes will do. Recheck at 60Nm. Some of the bolts usually moves a bit more until 60Nm is reached. The small bolts on the outside is torked to 12Nm.
After the New headgasket and shim has been installed; the cams timing is off a bit.
On the Nytro/Viper Engine both cam gears have to come off and the bolt holes have to be ground oval to move the cam gears 0.85cm clockwise at the inner hole compared to the cam.
I used a Sharp carbide steel grind bit to make a mark going from the cam gear onto the cam. I have used blue marker to show you where the mark is made.
With the mark in Place I ground the bolt holes oval until the cams could be turned 0.85 cm clockwise.
Ready to start slotting the cam gears.
Here's what it looks like when the bolt holes have been slotted. The mark on the cam gear is now off-set from the mark on the cam by approx 0.85 cm.
With the cam gears slotted on both cams it's time to install the cams into the cylinder head.
Make sure the crank is on the flywheel mark With #1 cylinder (clutch side) on TDC.
Install the cams With the dots facing close to straight up. I use zip-ties to keep the Chain from jumping.
Install the cam caps and tighten to spec 10Nm.
Install the cam Chain tensioner With the Arrow pointing up.
You will have to press the two small springs together then at the same time press the bolt Down onto the spring and hook up the Lock mechanism.
With the cam Chain tensioner in place rotate the engines a few revolutions and set the fly Wheel at the mark once more.
Now comes the big question; does the marks on the cam shafts align With the Arrows on the cam caps?
They usually do not align the first time (well they do when you have done the cams 10 times LOL).... well but they did not line up, bummer.
By looking at the intake cam I figured that the intake came was off one tooth.
The exhaust cam was Perfect.
I took off the intake cam and moved the intake cam one tooth clockwise.
Reinstalled everything and rotated the engine a few more revs, put the flywheel on the mark and rechecked the alignment of the dots on the cams With the Arrows on the cam caps.... Yeeehaaaa they lined up perfectly.
Rotated the engine a few more times and it was still Perfect.
Now I rechecked the valve clearance on more time.
The MCX turbo install manual explicitely stress that this is done for the safety of the engine.
If one or more valve shim has moved out of position engine failure will occur on startup of the engine.
If valve clearance is out of spec engine damage may occur and engine performance will be off by a lot.
All checked up perfectly and I installed the cylinder head cover and torked the bolts to 9Nm.
I have the cylinder head on the custom made wooden stand.
The valve shims, buckets and cams are back in.
It's way easier to rotate the cams without having to rotate the pistons to overcome the compression.
Took note of all shims before reinstalling them into the cylinder head.
Measured all clearances.
Intake was pretty good, no need to adjust.
Exhaust was a bit tight on two valves and a bit too tight on one of the valves.
Adjusted the clearance by replacing shims With thinner to get the proper clearance.
The cams went on again and another pass of measurements were done, and it was done all OK.
Cleaned the sufaces of the cylinder head.
Make sure you do not tilt the cylinder head above 60 degree or you may have a valve shim move out of position while cleaning the cylinder head.
Installed the cylinder head onto the engine Block, tightened to spec, 20Nm, then 40Nm and finally 60Nm.
Let the bolts sit for a while a few minutes will do. Recheck at 60Nm. Some of the bolts usually moves a bit more until 60Nm is reached. The small bolts on the outside is torked to 12Nm.
After the New headgasket and shim has been installed; the cams timing is off a bit.
On the Nytro/Viper Engine both cam gears have to come off and the bolt holes have to be ground oval to move the cam gears 0.85cm clockwise at the inner hole compared to the cam.
I used a Sharp carbide steel grind bit to make a mark going from the cam gear onto the cam. I have used blue marker to show you where the mark is made.
With the mark in Place I ground the bolt holes oval until the cams could be turned 0.85 cm clockwise.
Ready to start slotting the cam gears.
Here's what it looks like when the bolt holes have been slotted. The mark on the cam gear is now off-set from the mark on the cam by approx 0.85 cm.
With the cam gears slotted on both cams it's time to install the cams into the cylinder head.
Make sure the crank is on the flywheel mark With #1 cylinder (clutch side) on TDC.
Install the cams With the dots facing close to straight up. I use zip-ties to keep the Chain from jumping.
Install the cam caps and tighten to spec 10Nm.
Install the cam Chain tensioner With the Arrow pointing up.
You will have to press the two small springs together then at the same time press the bolt Down onto the spring and hook up the Lock mechanism.
With the cam Chain tensioner in place rotate the engines a few revolutions and set the fly Wheel at the mark once more.
Now comes the big question; does the marks on the cam shafts align With the Arrows on the cam caps?
They usually do not align the first time (well they do when you have done the cams 10 times LOL).... well but they did not line up, bummer.
By looking at the intake cam I figured that the intake came was off one tooth.
The exhaust cam was Perfect.
I took off the intake cam and moved the intake cam one tooth clockwise.
Reinstalled everything and rotated the engine a few more revs, put the flywheel on the mark and rechecked the alignment of the dots on the cams With the Arrows on the cam caps.... Yeeehaaaa they lined up perfectly.
Rotated the engine a few more times and it was still Perfect.
Now I rechecked the valve clearance on more time.
The MCX turbo install manual explicitely stress that this is done for the safety of the engine.
If one or more valve shim has moved out of position engine failure will occur on startup of the engine.
If valve clearance is out of spec engine damage may occur and engine performance will be off by a lot.
All checked up perfectly and I installed the cylinder head cover and torked the bolts to 9Nm.
A.Granath
Veteran
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2013
- Messages
- 42
- Location
- Sundsvall, Sweden
- Country
- Sweden
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha Viper MTX 162" MCX Turbo 190
- LOCATION
- Sundsvall
Great thread mr.rxrider! It's interesting to have a glimpse inside of that viper
Why no oil pump on this kit? Do mcx use a turbo that doesn't require the same oil pressure?
Why no oil pump on this kit? Do mcx use a turbo that doesn't require the same oil pressure?
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