Secondary clutch bushing failure

[74Nitro]

Why switch this bushing out? I've never had an issue with the stock one since they came out with this style clutch in 1995.

 

[KnappAttack]

Where would one find an oilite bushing for the driven clutch?

Just a warning to you if you like performance. Don't use oilite or bronze bushings in any of the clutches movables, drive or driven. They will hurt shifting performance vs the nice factory coated bushings every time no matter what. In absolutely no instance is a bronze or oilite bushing better in any sliding movable part of any brand of snowmobile clutch, no matter what anyone says, and yes I know there are companies touting long bushings, bronze bushings, olive bushings available separately, and in special fantastic clutch covers that will help this-that and the other bla, bla, bla. I have tried them all on the timers and they slow the shift-out down and stick more than any of the factory bushings. When I'd go back to the stock and narrow factory coated bushings the performance comes back every single time. Factory coated bushings, or fabric style bushings should be replaced with factory coated bushings. Do yourself a favor and stay away from these bronze and oilite bushings in any clutch!
These stock narrow and coated bushings can not be improved upon for performance.

 

[radianguy]

Why switch this bushing out? I've never had an issue with the stock one since they came out with this style clutch in 1995.

Having an issue with 2 sleds, doing the exact same thing.... down 200-300 RPM on top, after going through a lot of things, just ruling out things. My buddie hauled his driven clutch off 2 nights ago and the bushing is in rough shape. We are going to change just to rule it out.

 

[radianguy]

Just a warning to you if you like performance. Don't use oilite or bronze bushings in any of the clutches movables, drive or driven. They will hurt shifting performance vs the nice factory coated bushings every time no matter what. In absolutely no instance is a bronze or oilite bushing better in any sliding movable part of any brand of snowmobile clutch, no matter what anyone says, and yes I know there are companies touting long bushings, bronze bushings, olive bushings available separately, and in special fantastic clutch covers that will help this-that and the other bla, bla, bla. I have tried them all on the timers and they slow the shift-out down and stick more than any of the factory bushings. When I'd go back to the stock and narrow factory coated bushings the performance comes back every single time. Factory coated bushings, or fabric style bushings should be replaced with factory coated bushings. Do yourself a favor and stay away from these bronze and oilite bushings in any clutch!
These stock narrow and coated bushings can not be improved upon for performance.

Thanks for the reply, appreciate the advice! Will replace with OEM.

 

[KnappAttack]

I just read thru some of the earlier portions of this thread. If the bushing is coming out, its due to heat of the sheaves thru one way or the other, typically from a poor clutch recipe and slipping belts. It can happen on the primary as well as the secondary. Fix the belt and clutch temps and you'll fix the problem of bushings coming out.

Of course the bushings can wear and thats the one and only reason to change them out of course, but stick to OEM bushings only if you value performance. Going to wider bushings is a no-no. They create more stiction and will hurt performance and be more prone to coming out of their position. Same with Bronze or Oilite bushings, they also create much more stiction and hurt performance. These factory coated bushings are the best to use in snowmobile, ATV and SXS clutches.

Narrow bushings are better than wide bushings, coated bushings are better than non-coated. I can't emphasize this enough. Another reason to use factory bushings is they are sized properly for clearance. People may think tighter it better, Its not. The clearance is there because of clutch heat. Clutches are going to heat and expand, the tolerances on the bushings are there for a reason, they need room for the expansion so they dont stick on the shaft. Of course looser than normal is also not good either. It needs to be "just right" to be happy.

 

[radianguy]

I just read thru some of the earlier portions of this thread. If the bushing is coming out, its due to heat of the sheaves thru one way or the other, typically from a poor clutch recipe and slipping belts. It can happen on the primary as well as the secondary. Fix the belt and clutch temps and you'll fix the problem of bushings coming out.

Of course the bushings can wear and thats the one and only reason to change them out of course, but stick to OEM bushings only if you value performance. Going to wider bushings is a no-no. They create more stiction and will hurt performance and be more prone to coming out of their position. Same with Bronze or Oilite bushings, they also create much more stiction and hurt performance. These factory coated bushings are the best to use in snowmobile, ATV and SXS clutches.

Narrow bushings are better than wide bushings, coated bushings are better than non-coated. I can't emphasize this enough. Another reason to use factory bushings is they are sized properly for clearance. People may think tighter it better, Its not. The clearance is there because of clutch heat. Clutches are going to heat and expand, the tolerances on the bushings are there for a reason, they need room for the expansion so they dont stick on the shaft. Of course looser than normal is also not good either. It needs to be "just right" to be happy.

Yeah no issue of bushings coming out, we are just dealing with a couple hundred rpm loss, thinking maybe something binding and not allowing full shift in either of the clutches.

 

[radianguy]

Also just realized this is Sidewinder forum, we are dealing with issue on 2 Nytro's.