5valve
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- Nytro, IQR, Redline’s, trailing-arm Polaris’s
I have a Factory service manual and this relay is not pictured in it. Anybody know what it’s called. It was causing and no-start & stalling condition. The screen on the dash pod also flickered. I tapped on it and disconnected the relay a couple times...now everything is fine. Any guesses ?
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- Schofield, WI
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- www.totallyamaha.com
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- 2020 Sidewinder SRX
I have a Factory service manual and this relay is not pictured in it. Anybody know what it’s called. It was causing and no-start & stalling condition. The screen on the dash pod also flickered. I tapped on it and disconnected the relay a couple times...now everything is fine. Any guesses ?
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I have never seen that before located in that area. All the relays are on the nose on the Nytros. What year is your sled? Did you buy it new or used? Any mods?
5valve
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- Nytro, IQR, Redline’s, trailing-arm Polaris’s
I have never seen that before located in that area. All the relays are on the nose on the Nytros. What year is your sled? Did you buy it new or used? Any mods?
It’s a 2013 Factory Yamaha hillclimb racer. Bought it used. Many mods....it’s #789...ridden by Greg Dana.
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It’s a 2013 Factory Yamaha hillclimb racer. Bought it used. Many mods....it’s #789...ridden by Greg Dana.
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When it is working can u feel it click when u turn the key? Or as u here the fuel pump?
Last edited:
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
5valve
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It is clicking now that it’s running. When I was experiencing the no-start condition ( the dash cluster won’t turn on & the fuel pump doesn’t run), there was no clicking coming from that relay. The sled fixed itself when I tapped on the relay with a screwdriver. I heard it click, the dash cluster turned on & the fuel pump ran. I’m wondering if it’s a roll-over device relay. I’ll admit I haven’t traced the wires yet. It just started running Sunday night.....
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- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 21,538
- Age
- 54
- Location
- Schofield, WI
- Website
- www.totallyamaha.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2020 Sidewinder SRX
It is clicking now that it’s running. When I was experiencing the no-start condition ( the dash cluster won’t turn on & the fuel pump doesn’t run), there was no clicking coming from that relay. The sled fixed itself when I tapped on the relay with a screwdriver. I heard it click, the dash cluster turned on & the fuel pump ran. I’m wondering if it’s a roll-over device relay. I’ll admit I haven’t traced the wires yet. It just started running Sunday night.....
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I would guess thats the relay the work in conjunction with the starter relay by the battery.
Mtnviper
Vendor
It is clicking now that it’s running. When I was experiencing the no-start condition ( the dash cluster won’t turn on & the fuel pump doesn’t run), there was no clicking coming from that relay. The sled fixed itself when I tapped on the relay with a screwdriver. I heard it click, the dash cluster turned on & the fuel pump ran. I’m wondering if it’s a roll-over device relay. I’ll admit I haven’t traced the wires yet. It just started running Sunday night.....
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I believe that is a roll over valve relay. Judging by your pic, it looks like the sled has a Yamaha accessory ROV kit that was made by MPI several years ago.
It's different from the ROV kits that I make, but if you suspect that relay is bad it can be replaced with a Bosch unit from any auto parts store. You'll want to use a lower amperage relay such as a 20/25 amp instead of the 40/60 amp unit shown though.
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I believe that is a roll over valve relay. Judging by your pic, it looks like the sled has a Yamaha accessory ROV kit that was made by MPI several years ago.
It's different from the ROV kits that I make, but if you suspect that relay is bad it can be replaced with a Bosch unit from any auto parts store. You'll want to use a lower amperage relay such as a 20/25 amp instead of the 40/60 amp unit shown though.
Thank you for that insight. I was not aware of those bring installed.. thought maybe they relocated one of the other relays.. thank you for clarity.
5valve
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I believe that is a roll over valve relay. Judging by your pic, it looks like the sled has a Yamaha accessory ROV kit that was made by MPI several years ago.
It's different from the ROV kits that I make, but if you suspect that relay is bad it can be replaced with a Bosch unit from any auto parts store. You'll want to use a lower amperage relay such as a 20/25 amp instead of the 40/60 amp unit shown though.
That comment about the amp rating is interesting. I do wanna replace it. When I saw the high amp rating on it, I thought it odd. The wires aren’t capable of that kinda draw (too small), making me think it was aftermarket in some way...or it’s already been replaced once before, and that’s all that was available?
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5valve
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Darn good info on this sight! Thanks for chiming in guys. I’ll trace the wires tonight and try to verify the set up and share what I find.
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5valve
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Here’s a couple of pics showing the wiring harness. Looks like the sled has a roll-over system. And that relay is part of it. A harness runs from the relay and over to the tether switch...
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5valve
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Mtnviper
Vendor
Yes, they came with the 40/60 amp relay. The system doesn't draw anywhere near that though, so I usually will recommend a lower amp one.That comment about the amp rating is interesting. I do wanna replace it. When I saw the high amp rating on it, I thought it odd. The wires aren’t capable of that kinda draw (too small), making me think it was aftermarket in some way...or it’s already been replaced once before, and that’s all that was available?
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Higher amp relays require a higher current draw to "burn the contacts" clean. If a lower current draw is fed through a high amp relay contact, there is not enough of an arc to clean the oxidation from the relay contact surface. Then over time, the oxidation will build up on the contact surface area and create high resistance within the relay.
5valve
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- Snowmobile
- Nytro, IQR, Redline’s, trailing-arm Polaris’s
Yes, they came with the 40/60 amp relay. The system doesn't draw anywhere near that though, so I usually will recommend a lower amp one.
Higher amp relays require a higher current draw to "burn the contacts" clean. If a lower current draw is fed through a high amp relay contact, there is not enough of an arc to clean the oxidation from the relay contact surface. Then over time, the oxidation will build up on the contact surface area and create high resistance within the relay.
I’ll bet that’s why I’m having the issue with the sled...
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