Seized Brake Rotor

[Big Pussy]

Trying to get to the lower bearing but the brake rotor hub is seized tight to the splines. Won't move.
Tried prying, penetrating oil, heat. Letting it soak in now.

What have you all done that was successful without destroying everything?

BP

 

[idontknowjack]

Air hammer close to spline and then a 3-jaw puller.

 

[15viperturbo]

lots of heat and a air hammer as mentioned above has always worked for me.

 

[Big Pussy]

No success. Big three jaw puller putting on lots of force. Heated the hub with the acetylene torch. Hit it with the air hammer just outside the hub all the way around. Even on the side of the hub behind the rotor. If it moved at all, I can't get a feeler gauge between the hub and the bearing.

This is not looking good. I have probably wrecked the rotor already. It may wobble now. May have to cut it off somehow.

BP

 

[OneFast600]

I can guarantee the shaft is junk now too. My rotor came off in pieces with a three jaw puller and heat. The shaft mushroomed a bit from the pulling force. I believe that a lip is created on the inside of the rotor hub when the shaft spins inside the bearing. That’s why the rotor doesn’t come off. I ordered a BDX shaft and rotor from Hurricane Performance.

 

[Big Pussy]

Well, I am happy to report that the brake rotor is OFF this afternoon. The rotor is destroyed though, mainly from peening with the air hammer and melting with the acetylene torch. I need to source a new one. I used a big 3-jaw puller and heated one place on the rotor hub until it started melting while cooling the shaft with a water hose nozzle so I would not wreck it. I would beat the brake surface of the rotor between the puller jaws and keep tightening. I took over an hour but started moving. I had to beat until it was half off the shaft until the puller alone would move it.

The driveshaft is absolutely fine. When the sled was brand new, I had a plug machined and TIG welded in the ID of the shaft. An M10 threaded hole in the center holds an aluminum machined cap to press the rotor tight against the bearing, I used the threaded hole to hold an M10 socket head cap screw to pilot the puller bolt. Works great.

I had a tab TIG welded on the hub of the rotor at a low spline and then file fitted to engage a 1/8" wide notch that I ground in the inner race of the bearing. Before putting it all together, I center punch peened the shaft surface very lightly in three spots every 5 degrees around the shaft. When the bearing went on, I had to beat it on aligned with a low spline on the shaft. When the rotor goes on and engages the notch, there is no way in hell the bearing can spin, and it didn't. The new rotor needs a file fit tab welded on again.

The rotor seized because I did not coat the splines with enough anti-seize last summer. Lesson learned. Won't make that mistake again.

Thanks for the ideas.

BP

 

[OneFast600]

Well, I am happy to report that the brake rotor is OFF this afternoon. The rotor is destroyed though, mainly from peening with the air hammer and melting with the acetylene torch. I need to source a new one. I used a big 3-jaw puller and heated one place on the rotor hub until it started melting while cooling the shaft with a water hose nozzle so I would not wreck it. I would beat the brake surface of the rotor between the puller jaws and keep tightening. I took over an hour but started moving. I had to beat until it was half off the shaft until the puller alone would move it.

The driveshaft is absolutely fine. When the sled was brand new, I had a plug machined and TIG welded in the ID of the shaft. An M10 threaded hole in the center holds an aluminum machined cap to press the rotor tight against the bearing, I used the threaded hole to hold an M10 socket head cap screw to pilot the puller bolt. Works great.

I had a tab TIG welded on the hub of the rotor at a low spline and then file fitted to engage a 1/8" wide notch that I ground in the inner race of the bearing. Before putting it all together, I center punch peened the shaft surface very lightly in three spots every 5 degrees around the shaft. When the bearing went on, I had to beat it on aligned with a low spline on the shaft. When the rotor goes on and engages the notch, there is no way in hell the bearing can spin, and it didn't. The new rotor needs a file fit tab welded on again.

The rotor seized because I did not coat the splines with enough anti-seize last summer. Lesson learned. Won't make that mistake again.

Thanks for the ideas.

BP

The rotor I suggested to you from Hurricane Performance is apparently back ordered. I paid $168 for it on January 2/2023. It’s now $268. I see you’re from Woodstock, ON. There is a 2017 Thundercat being parted out in Lisle, ON. The rotor I have is pictured in the ad. The ad is on kijiji. Give him a call or email maybe?

Thundercat/ sidewinder | Snowmobiles | Barrie | Kijiji

Parting out 2017 thundercat. All parts available. Front fox shocks $600 sold Rear skid shocks 400pr Skid 137 $600 Track 650 near new Primary powerbloc 80$650near new Secondary 250 Chain case complete 500 Reverse motor 100 Chains and gears 180 Headlight led 350 Side panels 250 pair Hood 250...

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