Sidewinder Barn of Parts Mech. Power Steering Review

[Mills]

I purchased the Barn of Parts Mechanical Power Steering kit for my '21 Sidewinder SRX and rode Wed - Sun of last week putting on over 600 miles. I rode with two others that have electric power steering on their '23 and '25 SRX's to compare the BOP kit against. I would hands-down buy a Sidewinder without EPS and add the BOP MPS in a heart beat. Not only does the BOP MPS kit give you steering that is as easy as the factory EPS, it gives you much better feedback through the handlebars. The three of us traded off and all came to the same conclusion that the BOP MPS kit is equal to or better than the factory EPS in effort, feedback, weight and cost. My sled has a 240 HP tune/clutching and a Camso Ice Arrowhead 130 track.

 

[KnappAttack]

Glad you like it, but I have to say I disagree completely, I ran with the BOP mechanical arms for many years, I was in-fact the guy that found that the V1 arms also had severe bump steer built in and killed the handling with all that bump steer, I hated them for aggressive riding and & took them off. BOP saw my dissatisfaction and re-designed them based on what I found, they offered me a chance at the V2 version with reduced bump steer so I tried them. The bump steer was greatly reduced, not eliminated completely, but far better than it was, it was livable anyway. I ran the V2 arms for many years, and although I never felt it steered hard at any point or that I needed EPS by any means, but once I got a ride on my friends EPS equipped Winder, I knew I had to have the EPS machine after that ride and orders a new machine just to get the EPS, it steered easier than the BOP arms and was just plan better all around in the steering, handling and confidence department. I really liked the BOP steering arms, but much prefer the EPS machine and wouldn't ever want to go away from it. EPS absolutely steers easier at slower speeds where it's really needed, and it also offers the ability to cushion the impacts from ruts, dirt chunks ect. Another plus is the turning radius is not reduced like the BOP arms have to deal with, not that thats a big thing to me, but its there none the less.

There is one thing that irritates me on the EPS sleds. I do not like the fact that EPS does't always fire up however and come to life when starting the sled every time. If the battery is cold or down in voltage, the EPS does not activate some times. It happens both on my machine and my buds EPS sleds too, I've also read about this issue here and other forums. It's a easy fix as its obvious it's not working when it happens, you have to switch off and stop the engine and re-start it down the trail after its run a bit to charge or warm the battery up. Not sure why this happens, but it's quite common and happens more often when using a Lithium battery that is cold, thats the only thing that aggravates me about the EPS. Otherwise it steers and handles easier than the 600's. I would never say the arms are better at anything over the EPS except saving weight and cost, sorry but there no way the arms steer easier than EPS sled, thats just silly.

If you have an older machine the BOP arms are a nice option for easier steering, but no way no how is it better than EPS in any way IMO. I'd spend the money on the EPS every single time.

 

[STAIN]

There is one thing that irritates me on the EPS sleds. I do not like the fact that EPS does't always fire up however and come to life when starting the sled every time. If the battery is cold or down in voltage, the EPS does not activate some times. It happens both on my machine and my buds EPS sleds too, I've also read about this issue here and other forums. It's a easy fix as its obvious it's not working when it happens, you have to switch off and stop the engine and re-start it down the trail after its run a bit to charge or warm the battery up. Not sure why this happens, but it's quite common and happens more often when using a Lithium battery that is cold,

I have never had this occur in 5000 miles, but my sled is almost always in a heated garage every night, unless I am at camp.
I did have it happen once on my old Apex in very cold weather. I just kept driving and it quickly came back.
Do you all have lithium batteries? Is it when the sled is outside overnight in very cold weather? I am just trying to understand how and why this occurs.

 

[Mills]

Glad you like it, but I have to say I disagree completely, I ran with the BOP mechanical arms for many years, I was in-fact the guy that found that the V1 arms also had severe bump steer built in and killed the handling with all that bump steer, I hated them for aggressive riding and & took them off. BOP saw my dissatisfaction and re-designed them based on what I found, they offered me a chance at the V2 version with reduced bump steer so I tried them. The bump steer was greatly reduced, not eliminated completely, but far better than it was, it was livable anyway. I ran the V2 arms for many years, and although I never felt it steered hard at any point or that I needed EPS by any means, but once I got a ride on my friends EPS equipped Winder, I knew I had to have the EPS machine after that ride and orders a new machine just to get the EPS, it steered easier than the BOP arms and was just plan better all around in the steering, handling and confidence department. I really liked the BOP steering arms, but much prefer the EPS machine and wouldn't ever want to go away from it. EPS absolutely steers easier at slower speeds where it's really needed, and it also offers the ability to cushion the impacts from ruts, dirt chunks ect. Another plus is the turning radius is not reduced like the BOP arms have to deal with, not that thats a big thing to me, but its there none the less.

There is one thing that irritates me on the EPS sleds. I do not like the fact that EPS does't always fire up however and come to life when starting the sled every time. If the battery is cold or down in voltage, the EPS does not activate some times. It happens both on my machine and my buds EPS sleds too, I've also read about this issue here and other forums. It's a easy fix as its obvious it's not working when it happens, you have to switch off and stop the engine and re-start it down the trail after its run a bit to charge or warm the battery up. Not sure why this happens, but it's quite common and happens more often when using a Lithium battery that is cold, thats the only thing that aggravates me about the EPS. Otherwise it steers and handles easier than the 600's. I would never say the arms are better at anything over the EPS except saving weight and cost, sorry but there no way the arms steer easier than EPS sled, thats just silly.

If you have an older machine the BOP arms are a nice option for easier steering, but no way no how is it better than EPS in any way IMO. I'd spend the money on the EPS every single time.

I used the V2 version of the MPS and did not notice any bump steer. I have my sled set up with zero toe out/in and am using 9" Stud Boy Dually carbides. The V2 system does definitely reduce your overall turning radius but, know that it does I plan for it when in parking lots or areas where I know I need to turn around.

 

[KnappAttack]

I have never had this occur in 5000 miles, but my sled is almost always in a heated garage every night, unless I am at camp.
I did have it happen once on my old Apex in very cold weather. I just kept driving and it quickly came back.
Do you all have lithium batteries? Is it when the sled is outside overnight in very cold weather? I am just trying to understand how and why this occurs.

Coming out of a warm shop they typically don’t act up. It’s when they sit outside in the cold the EPS doesn’t like to fire right up when turning on the key. I have a lithium. Buddies don’t. Either way they don’t sometimes fire up the EPS. Sled still works as a non EPS machine, you just need to let it run a while to charge and warm the battery up, then shut it down and restart it and the EPS will fire up and work. Annoying for sure, especially if you are data logging and charging your phone on the dash as it will need restarted for logging also.

Happens with AGM and lead acid batteries as well if the voltage isn’t there when you turn the key on in the cold. We noticed it on my buds sled years ago. Then noticed it was happening with others machines, we found out if the battery wasn’t at a certain level on voltage or amperage or something, this is what it did when turning on the key. Wished I knew more about the electrical part it and the how and why this happens. Not sure why it can be fixed.

 

[MrSled]

Coming out of a warm shop they typically don’t act up. It’s when they sit outside in the cold the EPS doesn’t like to fire right up when turning on the key. I have a lithium. Buddies don’t. Either way they don’t sometimes fire up the EPS. Sled still works as a non EPS machine, you just need to let it run a while to charge and warm the battery up, then shut it down and restart it and the EPS will fire up and work. Annoying for sure, especially if you are data logging and charging your phone on the dash as it will need restarted for logging also.

Happens with AGM and lead acid batteries as well if the voltage isn’t there when you turn the key on in the cold. We noticed it on my buds sled years ago. Then noticed it was happening with others machines, we found out if the battery wasn’t at a certain level on voltage or amperage or something, this is what it did when turning on the key. Wished I knew more about the electrical part it and the how and why this happens. Not sure why it can be fixed.

I have also noticed in on EPS. I wonder if a delayed relay for the trigger wire would fix this.

 

[KnappAttack]

I have also noticed in on EPS. I wonder if a delayed relay for the trigger wire would fix this.

I would be indebted to the guy who could figure out how to make EPS work 100% of the time thats for sure. All I know is what I was told about the batter voltage or amperage or something. When it comes to electrical I'm lost. Someone mention something about CanBuss or something activating or something from low voltage. Maybe I have it wrong, all I know is if they sit outside and the battery is cold or down in charge volts, they don't want to fire up the EPS which is really aggravating. Some smart electrical guy ought to be able to figure out a fix you'd think.

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

I would be indebted to the guy who could figure out how to make EPS work 100% of the time thats for sure. All I know is what I was told about the batter voltage or amperage or something. When it comes to electrical I'm lost. Someone mention something about CanBuss or something activating or something from low voltage. Maybe I have it wrong, all I know is if they sit outside and the battery is cold or down in charge volts, they don't want to fire up the EPS which is really aggravating. Some smart electrical guy ought to be able to figure out a fix you'd think.

Good argument for the mechanical power steering haha. ALWAYS works.

 

[journeyman]

I didn't know they were using Can Bus with their EPS. Can Bus (Controller Area Network) was developed in the 1980's by Bosch. It is a 2 wire system that doesn't need the use of a central computer, it's used to communicate with various components. (High Can, Low Can). It's also known that Can Bus can experience issues with cold weather performance. It is used on several of our machines at my work that come from Europe and I'm not a big fan of it. I deal with Can Bus errors quite a bit and we are in a controlled environment. Makes me wonder what they used on the Apex sleds or the Grizzley 4 wheelers?

 

[beanie]

I have also noticed in on EPS. I wonder if a delayed relay for the trigger wire would fix this.

Sounds like a job for Roc .

 

[Fleecer]

What is the cost of BOP Power steering?

 

[sideshowBob]

What is the cost of BOP Power steering?

@ $340.00 I think.

 

[sideshowBob]

I have looked at the BOP MPS as well but I have not pulled the trigger as I am concerned with loss of turning radius. I installed an easy steer kit on my 1996 Vmax 4 back in the day and was very disappointed in the turning radius reduction to the point of removing it....although the Vmax 4 never had reverse for tight spots like my SW.

What have people found with the BOP MPS and turning radius?

 

[RobX-1]

I can only speak on behalf of the delta box BOP MPS and what I found was that just moving to the 1st hole helped reduce steering effort where the decrease in turning radius was very minimal; hardly noticeable. However, as you moved to the 2nd and 3rd holes is where you really start to notice the decrease in turning radius. I ultimately went back to the 1st hole as I found that was the happy medium between decreased steering effort and decreased turning radius.

 

[Turboflash]

I run BOP MPS on second hole with stock arms. I got used to the decrease in turning radius and now after 3 years I don't really notice it. Occasionally, I do have to back up but not often.
For my situation with my shoulders, I'm pleased with it.