GoFast4me
Veteran
So for all you owners of Sidewinders....
Given that there appears to be some questionable difficulties with Sidewinder clutches I am curious about two things
Will you, have you or are you considering replacing the stock clutch?
If not considering replacing the clutch would be interested to hear your reasoning.
Given that there appears to be some questionable difficulties with Sidewinder clutches I am curious about two things
Will you, have you or are you considering replacing the stock clutch?
If not considering replacing the clutch would be interested to hear your reasoning.
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
Which clutch? There are 2
What would you replace it with?
What would you replace it with?
GoFast4me
Veteran
I am referring to replacing the clutch on a 2020 Sidewinder SRX. Did not know there were two different clutches. Did they change by model year or by model?
I do not like the idea of being stranded by a failure let alone if the driver were to be injured.
I do not plan on modifying the sled with a tune at this point but it appeared there were problems with rollers and such which people changed out etc.
This question is in part aimed at deciding on which version of the 4 stroke to purchase and to properly value the worth of the SW vs. Tcat.
If the clutch is questionable or weak on the SW then that eliminates one difference as some people felt the Tcat Secondary as well as the ratio warranted replacement anyway.
If the SW clutch is sound and reliable then one more positive favoring the SW.
I do not like the idea of being stranded by a failure let alone if the driver were to be injured.
I do not plan on modifying the sled with a tune at this point but it appeared there were problems with rollers and such which people changed out etc.
This question is in part aimed at deciding on which version of the 4 stroke to purchase and to properly value the worth of the SW vs. Tcat.
If the clutch is questionable or weak on the SW then that eliminates one difference as some people felt the Tcat Secondary as well as the ratio warranted replacement anyway.
If the SW clutch is sound and reliable then one more positive favoring the SW.
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
There is a primary and secondary clutch. If you are concerned about safety, i am assuming you mean the primary clutch. Both clutches need your attention when it comes to preventative maintenance. In the primary, You need to ensure the rollers are in good condition and not flat spotting and the bushings are not walking out. Running stock, i doubt you would have any issue but you any piece of performance equipment needs to be properly maintained. Both models have their flaws and quirks that need upgrading. I wouldn't let clutching sway you one way or the other. You can spend thousands upgrading the clutches if you want, but that is not necessary in your case IMO
GoFast4me
Veteran
If I did I was budgeting $900 to $1,200 to do it.
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
If I did I was budgeting $900 to $1,200 to do it.
Like i said, not necessary
JayM
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2018
- Messages
- 476
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Pickering, ON
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder R-TX SE
Personally, as I did with my sled there's a few things I would do to the clutches at minimum even if staying stock tune. I would for sure replace the rollers in the primary and secondary clutches with aftermarket rollers and I would run the Ultimax XS825 belt.
I usually clutch all my machines as well so for me adding different primary/secondary spring/helix I would do too even if stock.
I've got 2600 miles on my setup this season all tuned and still on the original XS825.
I usually clutch all my machines as well so for me adding different primary/secondary spring/helix I would do too even if stock.
I've got 2600 miles on my setup this season all tuned and still on the original XS825.
GoFast4me
Veteran
Personally, as I did with my sled there's a few things I would do to the clutches at minimum even if staying stock tune. I would for sure replace the rollers in the primary and secondary clutches with aftermarket rollers and I would run the Ultimax XS825 belt.
I usually clutch all my machines as well so for me adding different primary/secondary spring/helix I would do too even if stock.
I've got 2600 miles on my setup this season all tuned and still on the original XS825.
What does replacing the rollers achieve?
Same question for spring/helix?
74Nitro
VIP Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2013
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- 5,265
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- 52
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- Dublin Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2019 Sidewinder LTX
Aside from being noisy, there is nothing wrong with the clutch.(Unless you are planning on running over 300hp all the time)So for all you owners of Sidewinders....
Given that there appears to be some questionable difficulties with Sidewinder clutches I am curious about two things
Will you, have you or are you considering replacing the stock clutch?
If not considering replacing the clutch would be interested to hear your reasoning.
You've spent too much time reading hyperbolic posts on this site.
Dr. FeeLGooD
VIP Member
I am stock but find little information here on what to change it to, mostly because I do not truly understand clutching. I think both springs are too weak and maybe not heavy enough weights. I have a set up ordered used from a member here. Wish me luck.Personally, as I did with my sled there's a few things I would do to the clutches at minimum even if staying stock tune. I would for sure replace the rollers in the primary and secondary clutches with aftermarket rollers and I would run the Ultimax XS825 belt.
I usually clutch all my machines as well so for me adding different primary/secondary spring/helix I would do too even if stock.
I've got 2600 miles on my setup this season all tuned and still on the original XS825.
JayM
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2018
- Messages
- 476
- Age
- 44
- Location
- Pickering, ON
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder R-TX SE
What does replacing the rollers achieve?
Same question for spring/helix?
I'm no expert but rollers are a known problem, Secondary ones get flat spots and primary ones the bushing walks from the roller. Both of these could result in improper operation of the clutches which could lead to failure/blown belt. Not sure if the 2020 ones are better but for the ~$100 I thought it best to replace with aftermarket.
Springs/Helix just make the clutch engage at different RPM's and perform better. Typically I lean on a expert, call them up tell them my setup and then go with their recommendations.
One thing I do not like about the Yam clutch is the noise, I went from a Super Quiet Muffler back to stock midway through this season and the noise reduction I got from stock muffler was almost voided by the now increased clutch noise (didn't hear it as bad with the SQ muffler) So +1 to the Cat clutch for that. If I were to buy a Tcat I would do the Torsional Upgrade from Ron Ward on the Secondary Clutch.
DMCTurbo
VIP Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2005
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- 2,759
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- 51
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- Val Caron, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder XTX LE 137
Do regular maintenance and you’ll be fine. I have 10000 km on my primary, I clean it every weekend, take it apart and check everything over monthly. I’m still running the stock primary rollers. The bushings don’t show any wear. Not sure why mine seem to be lasting. I’ve been tuned for 8500 kms.
SAB1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2011
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- 545
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- Tuftonboro NH
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder LTX SE
2010 Vector GT
2006 Apex
What 74Nitro said. Run it stock and doubt you will have trouble.
Crossfire12
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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Plain as the sun is shining, anything more than stock, their Junk very weak for HP, you can change 6000 springs and settings, don’t matter. 270 hp up need TAPP,pro 4 etc, secondary to much spring bind ,pro4/stm
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- Oct 8, 2005
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- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
Stock HP stock clutching is just fine. Be it a YAM or Cat.
One problem with forums is that a newbie will come here and see a zillion clutch threads. You gotta remember 90% of every Winder out there is tuned up and over 250hp.
I recommend anyone to buy the 998, ride it 500 miles bone stock to be sure its all good. Then if you add more then 250hp tune, it would be smart to dive into the lowered offset w/less float. Secondary clutch rollers should be fine now since they had been updated already by YAM. Primary clutch rollers are fine stock and many do ok for several thousand miles with a tune, so watch them.
Talking about adding a TAPP or Pro4 Primary clutch before even knowing which tune is premature IMO.
I realize you want to try to figure in the cost ahead of time, but IMO you should first add up the several important items to work on/modify before calling these sleds reliable.....If you add a tune, you will then need to do a few more things beyond this basic list.
Important LIST:
-Apply nickel anti-seize to muffler bolts
-Tack weld the chain tensioner roller screws
-Apply green bearing(loctite) to the drive-axle bearing under brake rotor(between axle & race)
-Add a belly pan belt guard
-Belt adjuster makes for easier belt changes(BOP makes a nice one)
-Skis & Carbides
-RR cross shaft
-ROV delete mod
-Coolant hose protectors(BOP)
Click on my build thread below in Signature, I have done many of these things and alot more, so anyone can easily follow my pics to work on yourself.
Dan
One problem with forums is that a newbie will come here and see a zillion clutch threads. You gotta remember 90% of every Winder out there is tuned up and over 250hp.
I recommend anyone to buy the 998, ride it 500 miles bone stock to be sure its all good. Then if you add more then 250hp tune, it would be smart to dive into the lowered offset w/less float. Secondary clutch rollers should be fine now since they had been updated already by YAM. Primary clutch rollers are fine stock and many do ok for several thousand miles with a tune, so watch them.
Talking about adding a TAPP or Pro4 Primary clutch before even knowing which tune is premature IMO.
I realize you want to try to figure in the cost ahead of time, but IMO you should first add up the several important items to work on/modify before calling these sleds reliable.....If you add a tune, you will then need to do a few more things beyond this basic list.
Important LIST:
-Apply nickel anti-seize to muffler bolts
-Tack weld the chain tensioner roller screws
-Apply green bearing(loctite) to the drive-axle bearing under brake rotor(between axle & race)
-Add a belly pan belt guard
-Belt adjuster makes for easier belt changes(BOP makes a nice one)
-Skis & Carbides
-RR cross shaft
-ROV delete mod
-Coolant hose protectors(BOP)
Click on my build thread below in Signature, I have done many of these things and alot more, so anyone can easily follow my pics to work on yourself.
Dan
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