Sidewinder Oil and break-in

[**sj**]

He's attempting to use dino to seat his rings...in the past..I've run 0-30 vs the spec'd 0-40 with exactly the same protection seal...but I might be scared with this $led at least until after break in....we will see what the manual says

 

[cannondale27]

Some production methods and surely cylinder and ring materials have changed since article was written. I personally like the method but run the oil that's in there for 500mi. Then do engine and chain case with oem recommended oil.

 

[Sasquatch]

I would rethink that. These are not 1970's chevy engines with a flat tappet cam that you can measure internal tolerances with a
tape measure. I have done ASTM oil testing when the synthetics first came out. Take your 5w-30 dyno oil down to zero degrees
and see how close to grease it is. Now factor in internal engine clearances so close that conventional oil won't even flow between the parts
specifically cam to head. You would be essentially running it dry. Stick to the factory oil.

I agree to a point. I'll stick to synthetic oil don't see a need to stick to factory oil. In 03 when the first four strokes appeared on the snow however they came with dyno oil as factory oil. My 05 came with dyno oil from the factory. I run amsoil synthetic in it and in my Apex.

 

[fatchance]

Been using Mobile 1 for many years in everything. Don't know how many of you have seen this before , but it's worth a look.

 

[mplourde]

OMG..... [emoji33][emoji33][emoji33][emoji33] NO WORD...

 

[WINDER1987]

I feel like it depends on who is making the video

 

[Sasquatch]

Been using Mobile 1 for many years in everything. Don't know how many of you have seen this before , but it's worth a look.

Good test comparison of conventional verses synthetic. I use Mobil 5-30 in my truck! Amsoil 0-40 in my sleds. Both Amsoil and Mobile use good base stock, some other so called synthetics do not! If I did use Mobile1 it would probably be the 0-40 european formula instead of the 5-30!

 

[WINDER1987]

I would use amsoil cause I have a buddy who is a dealer who gives it to me at his price but usually it's easier to get the yamalube kit that comes with the filter gaskets and everything I need in one package

 

[MrSled]

Split thread and move this info to its own thread. Please try to keep the threads on topic.

 

[**sj**]

sorry mr.sled...mostly was and still is mobil one for me....

 

[Rich Kay]

Would not even think about running anything but what comes in the sled to break it in...... Then run what the manual shows for weight in a quality oil..

 

[stevewithOCD]

First i'm going to put earth magnets on drain plugs & filter. Then beat the living' piss out of it on trails (that's on off throttle all day) for the first day. Then i'll replace & "flush" both oils with synthetic Amsoil 'cuz a store 1 mile away sells it, adjust chain & ride again. At 500 miles or so i'll do it again. When i say "flush" i mean drain, add cheap oil, run on stand, drain again & add good oil. I flush because my new fj-09, that's a new Yamaha 3 cylinder, had ALOT of metal filings on drain plug when i first changed oil. It looked like a chia pet! Filings are gone now & she pops the rev limiter in a wheelie about 11,500 rpm with delight. My OCD when it comes to riding always costs me more, but i HATE metal shavings in motor!

 

[WINDER1987]

What oil do you use for the flush do you still use synthetic or just the cheapest stuff you can find ?

 

[fatchance]

What oil do you use for the flush do you still use synthetic or just the cheapest stuff you can find ?

It's not about saving money. It's about doing it right. Use the oil you're going to use in the sled to "flush it out".

 

[Shagnos]

Been using Mobile 1 for many years in everything. Don't know how many of you have seen this before , but it's worth a look.

Where is the Yamalube?