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Sidewinder Oil and break-in

First i'm going to put earth magnets on drain plugs & filter. Then beat the living' piss out of it on trails (that's on off throttle all day) for the first day. Then i'll replace & "flush" both oils with synthetic Amsoil 'cuz a store 1 mile away sells it, adjust chain & ride again. At 500 miles or so i'll do it again. When i say "flush" i mean drain, add cheap oil, run on stand, drain again & add good oil. I flush because my new fj-09, that's a new Yamaha 3 cylinder, had ALOT of metal filings on drain plug when i first changed oil. It looked like a chia pet! Filings are gone now & she pops the rev limiter in a wheelie about 11,500 rpm with delight. My OCD when it comes to riding always costs me more, but i HATE metal shavings in motor!

Might as well......http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
 

I want to relive my 2 stroke days, at my first oil change I'm gonna remove the engine, completely disassemble it to remove all the metal filings!
 
I want to relive my 2 stroke days, at my first oil change I'm gonna remove the engine, completely disassemble it to remove all the metal filings!

LOL......I do that every oil change!!
 
This is why i flush oil. That was 400 miles with an earth magnet on drain plug. I just use regular oil for the flush. I just drain it all & change filter. Teaspoon of regular oil won't effect anything.
 

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I'd be curious to see a test between Yama lube , amsoil, and mobile synthetics too
I've seen hundreds of "tests" and they all are dependent on who's doing it. Stick to a full synthetic brand name cuz they're all good . Mobil, Amsoil, Yamalube...all good
 
just read in a mag that if you us Yamalube they will cover the engine for 20 years or 100,000 miles an it covers snowmobiles now. this good new for the you guys with sidewinders.
 
Someone needs to remove the spark plugs on a brand new never run SW engine and measure the amount of torque it
takes to rotate it. Now break it in and do the test again.
 
Someone needs to remove the spark plugs on a brand new never run SW engine and measure the amount of torque it
takes to rotate it. Now break it in and do the test again.
Chris Reid could probly get this info with one text! And I'm sure he could answer many more questions that we all have!
 
As per my dealer....the factory fill is full synthetic 0w30 Arctic cat oil.
 
First i'm going to put earth magnets on drain plugs & filter. Then beat the living' piss out of it on trails (that's on off throttle all day) for the first day. Then i'll replace & "flush" both oils with synthetic Amsoil 'cuz a store 1 mile away sells it, adjust chain & ride again. At 500 miles or so i'll do it again. When i say "flush" i mean drain, add cheap oil, run on stand, drain again & add good oil. I flush because my new fj-09, that's a new Yamaha 3 cylinder, had ALOT of metal filings on drain plug when i first changed oil. It looked like a chia pet! Filings are gone now & she pops the rev limiter in a wheelie about 11,500 rpm with delight. My OCD when it comes to riding always costs me more, but i HATE metal shavings in motor!
I have a brand new Fj 09 and had nothing in the oil after breaking it in per manual instruction.....? Did not ride it like I stole it or did I baby it. Just rode it sensibly. I believe in letting the oil they put in at factory do the job at break-in then changing to a good synthetic of your choice. I trust what the factory puts in and they recommend for break-in.
 
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Someone needs to remove the spark plugs on a brand new never run SW engine and measure the amount of torque it
takes to rotate it. Now break it in and do the test again.
It would not be measurable difference in this day and age. I hope.
 


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