Sidewinder Ski suggestions again

[ROCKERDAN]

Unfortunately the transfer thing has all been tried last season on the 137s....One reason you are seeing more people buying the 129 now. I sure hope I can get the 129 to transfer as the 137 was non-existent no matter what I did.

 

[Offroadin]

save up your money and buy curves with 6" shaper bars and 4" leading edge. no darting, no pushing,and easy steering. this set up rails corners without a doubt

What specifically did you buy?
Did a quick shopping list on the Curve website...:

XS Ski
XS Loop
XS Loop Hardware-- Material: Zinc-coated
[URL='https://www.curveindustries.com/products/curve-industries-snowmobile-ski-carbides?variant=30764699730']Curve Carbides -- Size: 6" Shaper - Studboy
Leading Edge -- Size: 4" Leading Edge
Leading Edge Installation Template
XS Loop Hardware-- Material: Zinc-coated[/URL]

This sound about right as to what you installed on your SW?

 

[**sj**]

Unfortunately the transfer thing has all been tried last season on the 137s....One reason you are seeing more people buying the 129 now. I sure hope I can get the 129 to transfer as the 137 was non-existent no matter what I did.

The 129 will transfer the way you like for sure.... I've determined why out will and the 137 really doesn't.... the upper wheel mounting location...

Dan... did you ever get to try that last hidden hole in the strap? Dial all the rebound out of the rear shock?

 

[jonlafon1]

Back to Cat skis. They MUST BE SHIMMED correctly. And yes slim jims all day. If you have to wrestle with them and swear a little when putting ski back on after shimming -- they are shimmed correctly. Damn near 1/4 inch shim under rubber towards rear of ski. When you put your ride on a lift the skis will NOT be level to ground -- they should be angles UP. Also after 2 hundred miles or so. LOOK at wear on carbides they should be perfectly worn the same the Entire length of carbide

 

[**sj**]

Back to Cat skis. They MUST BE SHIMMED correctly. And yes slim jims all day. If you have to wrestle with them and swear a little when putting ski back on after shimming -- they are shimmed correctly. Damn near 1/4 inch shim under rubber towards rear of ski. When you put your ride on a lift the skis will NOT be level to ground -- they should be angles UP. Also after 2 hundred miles or so. LOOK at wear on carbides they should be perfectly worn the same the Entire length of carbide

the shim is added to the rearmost part of the rubber and nothing removed first right? that much shim eh? doesn't it make the bars pull back to center? (the tail of the ski trails hard) how did it handle on ice covered roads? wonder if there's a way to have a blue handle?

 

[DranttelSS]

the shim is added to the rearmost part of the rubber and nothing removed first right? that much shim eh? doesn't it make the bars pull back to center? (the tail of the ski trails hard) how did it handle on ice covered roads? wonder if there's a way to have a blue handle?

2014 Vipers had those skis with blue handles

 

[**sj**]

2014 Vipers had those skis with blue handles

cool thanks....was that year a cat ski? which model?

 

[DranttelSS]

cool thanks....was that year a cat ski? which model?

As far as I know thats a "Cat ski" uses a different carbide # than any other Yamaha.

Any blue 2014, RTX, LTX, XTX

 

[VX1R]

Lots of great info on this thread regarding improving the handling of the LT-X 137" skid SW using either the stock Tuner skis with aggressive runners or going the aftermarket ski route. Thanks to ROCKERDAN'S great write up last year the Ski Doo Pilot skis have garnered quite a few happy SW users, and the Curve skis also seem to have a lot of satisfied SW riders out there along with the OEM Arctic Cat skis.

There hasn't been much noise yet in this thread regarding the SLP MoHawk skis so I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in.

I've been running them on my '17 SW L-TX LE with awesome results. They have a much more of an aggressive keel design than the stock Tuner skis and handle great in all snow conditions I have found. As with any aggressive aftermarket skis they do require a little fine tuning of the rear suspension, but once you're dialed in your sled will go wherever you point it with minimal steering effort.

In the current issue of Snow Goer magazine they have some great comments on the SLP MoHawk skis that they installed on a '18 SW L-TX LE in their crossover sled shoot out. There is also my review of the MoHawk skis in the current issue of Snow Tech magazine in the SW custom build article.

One significant way to improve the weight transfer and to decrease the steering effort on the 137" L-TX models that I found last season was to replace the rear skid torsion springs with lighter rate torsion springs from HyGear Suspensions along with running the front limiter strap in the fully extended position. I could barely get the sled to squat down at all even when I jumped up and down on the running boards with the stock torsion springs installed. After I installed the lighter rate torsion springs I was able to get the correct amount of rear sag along with greatly improved weight transfer that also lightened up the steering effort considerably. A true win-win in my book.

 

[jonlafon1]

the shim is added to the rearmost part of the rubber and nothing removed first right? that much shim eh? doesn't it make the bars pull back to center? (the tail of the ski trails hard) how did it handle on ice covered roads? wonder if there's a way to have a blue handle?

Totally changes the ski. Without shims it average at best. Handles very good SJ. I buy a lot of aftermarket #*$&@, but honestly shimmed with slim jims it's damn good.

 

[cannondale27]

Totally changes the ski. Without shims it average at best. Handles very good SJ. I buy a lot of aftermarket #*$&@, but honestly shimmed with slim jims it's damn good.

Boy do I get crap at TA over that all the time. But it works! Even the old single keel Yamaha skis weren’t all that bad if shimmed right. Is one thing nice using the pilots. The cat rubbers which were in my 14 Viper are good and tight and no shimming needed.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

The 129 will transfer the way you like for sure.... I've determined why out will and the 137 really doesn't.... the upper wheel mounting location...

Dan... did you ever get to try that last hidden hole in the strap? Dial all the rebound out of the rear shock?

I did yes....I had it to max possible, and removed blocks too!...Very odd skid. It might just need softer springs out back? dunno.

Fingers cross on 129.....my old 12 procross 129 was good!

 

[race24x]

I havent seen anyone that has tried the SnoTrackers. I was able to get ahold of them directly and they are creating an aggressive version for the SW this year and they are on sale. However to be safe I think I am leaning towards the 6.9 Pilot skis with Shaper bars in the middle and something regular on the outside. What do you think?

 

[**sj**]

Lots of great info on this thread regarding improving the handling of the SW using either the stock Tuner skis with aggressive runners or going the aftermarket ski route. Thanks to ROCKERDAN'S great write up last year the Ski Doo Pilot skis have garnered quite a few happy SW users, and the Curve skis also seem to have a lot of satisfied SW riders out there along with the OEM Arctic Cat skis.

There hasn't been much noise yet in this thread regarding the SLP MoHawk skis so I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in.

I've been running them on my '17 SW L-TX LE with awesome results. They have a much more of an aggressive keel design than the stock Tuner skis and handle great in all snow conditions I have found. As with any aggressive aftermarket skis they do require a little fine tuning of the rear suspension, but once you're dialed in your sled will go wherever you point it with minimal steering effort.

In the current issue of Snow Goer magazine they have some great comments on the SLP MoHawk skis that they installed on a '18 SW L-TX LE in their crossover sled shoot out. There is also my review of the MoHawk skis in the current issue of Snow Tech magazine in the SW custom build article.

One significant way to improve the weight transfer and to decrease the steering effort on the 137" L-TX models that I found last season was to replace the rear skid torsion springs with lighter rate torsion springs from HyGear Suspensions along with running the front limiter strap in the fully extended position. I could barely get the sled to squat down at all even when I jumped up and down on the running boards with the stock torsion springs installed. After I installed the lighter rate torsion springs I was able to get the correct amount of rear sag along with greatly improved weight transfer that also lightened up the steering effort considerably. A true win-win in my book.

Ive got the Mohawks to try now ...whats your rider weight???

 

[VX1R]

Ive got the Mohawks to try now ...whats your rider weight???

I go about a buck and a half.

**sj**,,,,,,,,,,don't hesitate to contact me if you've got any set up questions with your new skis.

I just got another set of Mohawks to put on my wife's new SW.