Ski toe out and shims

[cannondale27]

This is one of those things that everytime a guy messes with a tape measure and 2x4 you say dang I need to do this better next time and then you dont till you need to do it again! Frozen Tows you have a great setup that really every snowmobiler should have since it would work on all sleds forever. Now I need to get off my butt and copy it! Thank You!

 

[grizztracks]

It always amazes me how precise some people try to be when aligning there sleds. Usually these machines have excessive play in the steering and also have tracks that tend to wander so making precise measurements can be difficult if not impossible. I measure off the top of the skis near the ends of the carbides to set the toe to an "approximate" value (no straps, boards or straight edges). Usually 1/4 to 1/2" out for single keel/single carbide skis and if setting dual keel skis or dual carbides then 1/8 to 1/4" out is usually adequate. This is just a starting point and toe can vary with overall setup and personal preference.

Shimming the ski rubbers will increase rear ski pressure which helps reduce darting but it also adds steering effort. I run Curve skis and single carbides with the rubbers shimmed and have minimal to no darting in most conditions but I do notice the increased steering effort. Adding preload to the center shock or running a stiffer spring can help with steering effort although there is a fine line there. To much spring pressure can disrupt the front to back balance and diminish overall handling on the trails.

 

[74Nitro]

Good thread, very interesting!
It is true that a track can be out of line, so that should be done first. I always use a metal straight edge so by definition, the skis alignment is referenced by the chassis 'center' so-to-speak.
I have never seen straps used before, but nothing wrong with that! I just sit on the machine first and set the handlebars to the straight ahead position.
Also like the rigid measuring bar idea with the stud, except I don't measure from ski-to-ski. I measure from the bar to each ski.

 

[FrozenTows4]

Always a skeptic that has never tried.
If the ProCross chassis has excessive slop, there's issues that need correcting.
Mine, with 7500 miles of not so gentle use, had ever so slight a-arm play. Corrected that with MainWay bushings.
Tie rods still factory tight.

Or maybe we're referring to SkiDoo's? The busiest sled on the trail.
If that's personal preference, then 1/2" toe out will produce that SkiDoo feeling.

Comments that I receive when swapping sleds with others...
"I could ride this sled all day long!"
"I actually feel like I was in control"
"Now I see how you can ride with one hand"
My only thoughts are, give me my sled back!

 

[Yamajon1]

I have always measured off of the front and rear carbide studs and used the track edge after first aligning the track itself. I set the bars straight bye eye but do not strap them. I am going to try the ski shimming next season. I like the bolt extender and drilled measure.

 

[Carla 123]

Good thread, very interesting!
It is true that a track can be out of line, so that should be done first. I always use a metal straight edge so by definition, the skis alignment is referenced by the chassis 'center' so-to-speak.
I have never seen straps used before, but nothing wrong with that! I just sit on the machine first and set the handlebars to the straight ahead position.
Also like the rigid measuring bar idea with the stud, except I don't measure from ski-to-ski. I measure from the bar to each ski.

Cannot line the track up on my viper.gave up after 2 years of trying.i just drive it.

 

[ViperTurboPete]

I have always used 1/4 inch toe out on every sled (which has been quite a few) I have owned. I always used a straight edge along the track, otherwise it is difficult to reference consistently. My Nytro feels like I have power steering...super light yet still can corner, but the Viper, not so much. It is the hardest steering effort I have ever experienced on a snowmachine….probably rivals my 1971 15 hp. Olympic when I was little. I am looking into correcting that.

 

[Termite]

Something that I learned off of this forum is theres a handle bar alignment hole which locks your steering perfectly straight. Remove the lower front plastic piece under the radiator and grab a fat phillips head screwdriver like a P3 and jam it thru the holes in the frame and steering to find the alignment hole. No more straps to the handle bars and perfectly straight skis every time. Makes everything even just a bit easier.

 

[swampcat]

Something that I learned off of this forum is theres a handle bar alignment hole which locks your steering perfectly straight. Remove the lower front plastic piece under the radiator and grab a fat phillips head screwdriver like a P3 and jam it thru the holes in the frame and steering to find the alignment hole. No more straps to the handle bars and perfectly straight skis every time. Makes everything even just a bit easier.

How bout a picture of said hole ? Thanks.

 

[Termite]

Image shows alignment hole. That's the best I can do a the moment.. I used the image from ebay cause my machine is not available to me any more since the season is over.

 

[Zrt1200]

I know I am a little late to this party but when I set toe on our 7000 & 9000 I looked in the manual just to double check the 1/8 to 1/4" toe out. It said in there to lift the front end so the ski pressure is off the ski's. I then set the toe, let the sled down to normal ride height and rechecked to out. I was set at 1/8" toe out with no pressure. At normal ride height ski toe out was a 1/4". It looks like the arc in the front suspension geometry changes toe out as it goes through it travel. In the past I always just set it at normal ride height. Has anyone else checked it like this or does everyone else just set the toe out at normal ride height??

 

[swampcat]

In the past, always set toe with it on the floor. After reading your comment, went and checked both 2020 service manuals for SideWinder and ThunderCat, BOTH state elevated off floor. Just for giggles, checked 2018 Cat 4-stroke manual, it ALSO states to use the elevated method. Gonna have to change my ways.

 

[Zrt1200]

In the past, always set toe with it on the floor. After reading your comment, went and checked both 2020 service manuals for SideWinder and ThunderCat, BOTH state elevated off floor. Just for giggles, checked 2018 Cat 4-stroke manual, it ALSO states to use the elevated method. Gonna have to change my ways.

Doing it like this is different for me as well as I always use to set it at ride height. If I wouldnt have double checked the toe out in the manual I am sure I wouldn't have caught the new way of checking it.