So my wife says

[slimjim2525]

No I'm not kidding! average 3000 - 4000 miles per year on my Apex!

So here you are making snide comments about a sled you don't even own, or have experience with. I had an Apex and rode it for 37k miles. They're not at all the same sled.

 

[jonlafon1]

weak front spring allowing the really short front shock to bottom destroying itself.

X2. The middle shock on every procross chassis sled should be rebuilt EVERY year. This shock/spring is the key to a good handling sled, and have seen mine blow out.. I do not ride hard in the rough stuff either.. Water can get into them and if not rebuilt they go bad quick IMO. Causing more stress in other areas

 

[Teamblue4]

So here you are making snide comments about a sled you don't even own, or have experience with. I had an Apex and rode it for 37k miles. They're not at all the same sled.

I bought a new sidewinder (artic cat) in 2019 tried to ride it but sold it after 2 season and went back to my Apex. lost $7000 in 2 season on the sidewinder, smart move I made !

 

[Turboflash]

Yes but those plates will not stop the damage from a broken cross shaft. Seen it . The issue is a weak front spring allowing the really short front shock to bottom destroying itself. Now you are hammering that wimpy cross shaft, it’s gonna break . Ive replaced and rebuilt dozens of these shocks and until you put an adequate spring and crossshaft in there you’re on borrowed time. Unless you weigh160 lbs soaking wet. Checking that shock should be done frequently.

Agree 100%. My point is whatever the reason for it, the plates will help but you still have to fix what's causing the problem whether it be weak spring, short shock, etc. BOP has a stainless steel bottom shaft (the one that the center shock eyelet is on) and he has the top cross shaft kit that strengthens the top cross shaft (yes, there's all Cat RR stuff and some Yamaha shafts too).

 

[hellflyer]

I find the 20 and newer don't hit that front shock like the shorter spindles did coming from a 16 turbo viper to the 2020 sidewinder ,just gets the front end a bit higher plus some different geometry I think.

 

[Clintww]

I have had the tunnel crack in that area without bending the cross shaft.

Mine was spider cracked in the same area also with less than 5000 miles. Shaft just slightly bent

 

[hellflyer]

The stock shaft flexes the tunnel and eventually causes that!

 

[stevewithOCD]

Nicely done Jim!!!
I was thinking of getting another Winder as a back-up and ALL those things I would also do to it.
To Be Honest, I just don't have the Time to do that much work on a back-up sled.
But those are the things that IMO NEED to be done to have a dependable sled since you & I put on serious miles.

P.S: when I say "don't have the time" I mean I'd rather be fishing

 

[74Nitro]

I have had the tunnel crack in that area without bending the cross shaft.

I also have cracks in that area and have never broke a shaft.

 

[74Nitro]

I have had the tunnel crack in that area without bending the cross shaft.

I also have cracks in that area and have never broke a shaft.

X2. The middle shock on every procross chassis sled should be rebuilt EVERY year. This shock/spring is the key to a good handling sled, and have seen mine blow out.. I do not ride hard in the rough stuff either.. Water can get into them and if not rebuilt they go bad quick IMO. Causing more stress in other areas

True! Mine froze last ride of last year. Obviously a bit of moisture in it.

 

[stevewithOCD]

Jim, did you beef up that rear tunnel also?
Cuz you can't run that much weight back there without it, especially gas in the very back.
My first Winder my bud bought snapped in half.
I Mean IN-HALF

 

[NYTurbo]

I also have cracks in that area and have never broke a shaft.

True! Mine froze last ride of last year. Obviously a bit of moisture in it.

Better get it rebuilt or replaced.

 

[74Nitro]

Better get it rebuilt or replaced.

Yes, I have it sitting on the bench.

 

[earthling]

Its all in the shaft.

The shafts are likely flexing long before they become permanently bent. Everyone here has bent some form of metal and you know that to get it to reach a specific permanent bend angle, you have to bend it beyond that angle because it will spring back. To break it that would mean that shaft is constantly bending as the failure is probably metal fatigue. Even a small amount of flex is going to put tremendous force through the bolt/hole/tunnel area. Whatever the length of the shaft, cut it in half, that is the lever through which the forces are being transferred and the majority of the force ends up at the juncture between bolt head and the hole.

Whatever is causing the flex (shock bottoming out, etc) needs attention as well as upgrading the shaft to one that is stiffer. A stiffer shaft will help (thats what she said) as it will better resist flexing, the shorter bolts in the ends of the BOP shaft will help as they are less prone to stretching, and the plates will help because whatever forces do come through the shaft will be dispersed across a greater area. But.. that shock.. if it is failing for whatever reason the problem isn't truly going away until that is addressed. Travis has a great solution but only if the shock is working properly.

 

[1nc 2000]

The inside of the tunnel has supports in that area and they stop right there. Going down towards the running boards its weaker. I believe the running boards are flexing at that area along with the top shaft.