Steering Arm

[Ruggybuggy]

Does anyone have a solution for a replacement part for #19? Mine has some movement and the part is $56 plus shipping. I was thinking of using two #21's on the correct length rod (#20). It would be nice to be able to change just the ends which cost $24 rather then the whole part.

 

[cannondale27]

I hear you. I just replaced that very same part again. I thought about hiems but bearings would work even better.

 

[Mooseman]

#21 isn't any better as mine is looser than #19. I just ordered a bunch of M10 Heims and 70mm long turnbuckle rods to go with them from fleabay, getting shipped from the UK. If you want to look them up, look for seller mcgillmotorsports. Here's the list to replace #19:
- 1 x M10 Male LH Rose Joint ULTRA HIGH STRENGTH /PERFORMANCE
- 1 x M10 Male RH Rose Joint ULTRA HIGH STRENGTH /PERFORMANCE
- 1 x Turnbuckle M10 Link Adjustable from 120 mm-160 mm (70mm long) Linkage Bar ARB
- M10 x 1.5 mm Half Nuts left hand pack of 10
- M10 x 1.5 mm Half Nuts right hand pack of 10

All of these are the coarser thread 1.5mm so they can't be used anywhere else on our sleds, which use M10 1.25mm fine thread.

It'll be more expensive than the OEM part but should be way more durable. I also ordered some M10 X 1.25mm FINE PITCH Male LH Rose Joint ULTRA HIGH STRENGTH /PERFORMANCE to replace the outer tie-rods as well as #21. Oh, and I bought enough to do all three of our sleds, total $418.26 CAD. Sure hope this works!

 

[cannondale27]

I looked all over for those lefthand Heims Mooseman! Please let us know how they work.

 

[cannondale27]

Is this the ones?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M10-X-1-25mm-FI ... 257ceed5a3

 

[cannondale27]

Here is what we need to watch out for. This is at full suspension droop. There is not much room here. If the joint hits it wont work and would be dangerous. Also the joint itself the innerball needs to have the travel needed to be in this position without binding. To check the bolt should easily fall through the holes and joint slide in the spindle. I hope these ends work Mooseman. If they do them and the YFZ joint mod with UP Bushmans kits will fix our steering play as good as it is ever going to be!

YFZ Joints(replace #22 and both 65's)
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

 

[cannondale27]

That site was a GREAT find!

 

[cannondale27]

Ordered mine. Hope it works!
Along with these boots.
http://stores.ebay.com/McGill-Motorspor ... b=13114008

 

[Mooseman]

Since this was a thread about the "dogbone" joint, I didn't elaborate too much on the tie-rods, at least not until I did my experimentation first.

Yes, those are the ones I got. The spacing for the tie-rods was one of my worries but I'll see how it goes. Since the bolt that goes through the OEM tie-rod is 8mm and these Rose joints have a 10mm hole through the ball, I got these instead:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180961346381?ssP ... 1439.l2649

I got those rubber boots last year but never got around to using them. They're available in the US.

I didn't want to post any eBay links as I thought it was taboo. If this works, that seller is gonna get real busy real fast!

 

[cannondale27]

Dang yes those are the proper ones. Didnt notice 10mm id! And yes they will be busy! Ebay links were allowed sometime last year I believe. Especially in this case where No One offers anything comparable.

 

[gibb73]

Is this the ones?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M10-X-1-25mm-FI ... 257ceed5a3

just looking at the specs on those for the dogbone link....looks like the "B" dimension of the 10mm joint is 14mm....the stock dogbone "B" dimension is 14mm (which is perfect) but the bolt hole diameter is only 8mm. The 8mm joint "B" dimension is only 12mm. I like the idea of using a larger and stronger link (mine has waaay too much play for 3500km) but with the reducer they sell looks like it slides into each end of the ball. This will make the "B" dimension too long...or am I missing something? I've been looking for a 10mm to 8mm reducing sleeve that is 14mm long....no luck though!

 

[cannondale27]

If a sleeve is all thats needed it wont be a problem. We are more worried about clearance especially for the DogBone. Just sit tight and see what Mooseman and I come up with for now. Joints are on there way.

 

[Mooseman]

Guys, you'll have to hang tight a few days. I got the joints and rods but I'm working this weekend. Hopefully I can get a test fit done by Monday. If I were to redo this, I would have ordered the M8 joints and link to replace the dog bone. I also got an M10 to replace #21 in the drawing. This one looks very promising but will require drilling the hole in the pivot to fit an M10 bolt.

Stay tuned...

 

[Mooseman]

Got some partial success. As per the pics, I was able to replace the dog bone with the heims as well as the top link joint (#21) but we can't use these as outer tie-rods as the angle at full suspension droop is too sharp and the joint would bind and/or possibly cause damage.

In my case, for the dog bone, I used M10 heims and drilled out the pivots to fit an M10 bolt but I would recommend going with M8 heims and rod to avoid drilling. For the top link joint (#21), no choice here since we have to use an M10 heim to fit on the rod and therefore must drill out the pivot to fit.

Now, the only slop left is in the outer tie-rods but these removed 75% of the remaining slop. Pretty good for me.

 

[cannondale27]

Nice! I just got mine and for the Tierod ends no amount of modding of them got them to work. Like said to big of angle. We tried.