Steering Play

[YammieDave]

09 Nytro has play in the steering, I've identified the problem down at the bottom where it connects to the frame.

I've read everything I can in the threads here, some have referred to this as the bell crank, but I can't find any info on what it took to fix it.

It's obvious that the bracket has egged out holes, so my questions are:

Is that bracket a bolt-on replacement, or is it welded to the frame?
If it's something I can buy and bolt on, where is it in the parts diagrams? Can't seem to find it...
If it's welded to the frame, what methods have you used to fix it? (weld a new bracket, drill and sleeve?)
What other parts do I need to buy to tighten this up?

Sled is in storage now so I won't be getting to it until Fall, but I'd like to get the parts on order.

 

[Deeppow16]

That bracket is welded on. I think what I would do is get a couple washers that are the size of the bolt and weld those onto the bracket. I think that would be the easiest fix but you might have the pull the subframe off to be able to get to it which will take you awhile.

 

[Pmtg04]

I cut a 3/16"-1/4" thick plate to size, drilled a hole same size as the bolt, and welded that plate to the subframe. My subframe was removed already because I was adding grizztrack's gusset kit.

 

[Gone Blue]

I have the same play in the 08' Nytro I picked up with 5,600 miles on it. The nut on the steering pivot shaft loosens a little bit and then the pivot "eggs out" the hole in the subframe bracket. At the very least I am going to weld up the hole and re-drill it when I pull the subframe this summer. I never thought about adding a plate to increase the thickness for the pivot. I will have to look at that when I get it all apart. G.B.

 

[Pmtg04]

I've never been good at welding and re-drilling. But I'm really good at welding a plate with a matching hole haha

Only issue was the pivot bolt has a cotter pin hole, the increased thickness from the newly welded plate required either a longer bolt or a newly drilled cotter pin hole.

 

[Gone Blue]

I've never been good at welding and re-drilling. But I'm really good at welding a plate with a matching hole haha

Only issue was the pivot bolt has a cotter pin hole, the increased thickness from the newly welded plate required either a longer bolt or a newly drilled cotter pin hole.

Haha, well I dont know if I am any good welding up a hole and re-drilling it either? We will see. G.B.

 

[YammieDave]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll probably look at fabricating a new bracket as well, but I won't get to it until Fall.

Given that it's such a common wear point, it could have been engineered a little better with a bolt-on replaceable bracket, I would think.

 

[grizztracks]

I've repaired a few of theses egged out pivot holes by partially welding them closed and grinding back out to the proper size.

 

[Hooray!]

You clearly have bolt slop but once corrected there is play in the assembly in a few places too. I installed both SB kits (detailed w pics in my rebuild thread) and made a world of difference. One is a thin washer for the main bolt and the other is a tighter shank bolt where things connect at the skis. I rebuilt my front end last season 100% and these kits removed last 4% of play... Winter is coming : )

 

[YammieDave]

I just got this thing straightened out today. For now, I have some pics to share that show the extent of the hole wear. In the next few days I'll be putting it all back together and will send up some pics of what the repair looks like.

Here's the hole:

And here it is with the bolt in it, just to show how much slop there was. As you can see in Grizz's pics above, the hole diameter should be just big enough for the bolt to pass through.

 

[Gone Blue]

I recently fixed my 08' that I picked up. I welded both the top and bottom holes up and re-drilled them. If I was to do it again I would weld washers in place on each bracket and use a longer bolt. I had to spend a lot of time trying to grind the brackets flat after welding them. And we all know access to work on these brackets even with the subframe stripped down and off the sled is not easy. I assembled the steering assembly pivot bolt with red locktite with hopes of preventing it from loosening up again. G.B.

 

[Hooray!]

Great pics, PITA if not removed to grind I bet. Mine did not appear to be ovalized just shim slop. SB Bros shim kit and spindle bolts really took out the playing mine. SB spindle bolts have a shank standing proud of the threads unlike what the local hardware store has (typ shank is less diameter than threads), for the money figured he sourced the shank size, length and they worked out of the box, support anyone supporting our Nytros.

 

[YammieDave]

I just referred someone over to this thread, and realized that I never posted a picture of my fix.

You can see a few plates welded in at the top of the bracket:

 

[grizztracks]

Yep, that works too. I've welded in washers to thicken up the frame mounts.

 

[Mountaintech]

The best fix for this problem is to weld in 12mm collars top and bottom and use a longer 12mm bolt. Even if the bolt ever loosens up there is so much bearing surface in the collars the bores will not wear out.