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Stiff Rear Shocks/Shock Valving Specs


Yes, just the rear shock, don't feel small bumps anymore. It will bottom out in the big stuff if your really pushing it but overall I like it much better. I have my springs set at soft but will try medium tonight.
 
I was happy with the stock shock in big bumps but through small bumps it reminded me of my 03 viper. If the trails were rough I would use my 1200 doo instead of the viper. Now the 1200 sits in the garage.
 
Thanks for the info. Hopefully just a simple revalve is the ticket. Cheap and effective from what I've heard so far. Would rather not replace the springs but if needed I will. Seems to me that with all the different experiences people are having it must be a shock issue
 
Oh yes, the 1st generation Viper. Me and 3 friends had them. We called the "the Brick". After 4 M10 installations all was well.
 
cannondale27 said:
Ess could you dyno a standard? I really want to ride one. Just stood on one and sag seems same 0 but maybe after breakin. I do believe they have a different shock part #.
I take it that you are referring to a LTX vrs LTX SE. Unfortunately I don't have access to one yet, only what customers bring me. If the shock is the culprit to the stiffness the shock will not "break in". The only break in would be the springs and suspension components, and yes, you will fell a slight difference afterwards
 
rebound

Ok I dont understand all this shock stuff but if I dont ask I wont know. Isnt rebound mean how fast the shock expands back to full position. Ok with that being said after I rode Sunday I put my sled in garage to melt snow and clean it up. So I went behind the sled and pushed down on the rear till it stopped than let go. It came up real slow and than I grabbed it and lifted it up another 3 to 4 inches to the top. Iam guessing sooner or later the shock would have came all the way up on its own. I think. So is this shock rebounding to slow or is this just normal ? I thought it was kunda odd. Again I am not familiar with this rear non adjustable shock. Please elaborate. :sled1:
 
Thats rebound but it sounds like you have sag. 3-4 in without you on it is normal on past sleds but it should not pull up slow. Should almost feel like nothing is there. Mine has no sag at all and I want some but not like you are describing. Its only to slow if it packs up while riding. Best is to have someone who is experienced watch you go through some whoops. 4 or 5 in a row at least. The suspension should fall into the gaps between the whoops and compress on the whoops themselves. If not rebound is to slow.
 
Re: rebound

bleedyamaha said:
Ok I dont understand all this shock stuff but if I dont ask I wont know. Isnt rebound mean how fast the shock expands back to full position. Ok with that being said after I rode Sunday I put my sled in garage to melt snow and clean it up. So I went behind the sled and pushed down on the rear till it stopped than let go. It came up real slow and than I grabbed it and lifted it up another 3 to 4 inches to the top. Iam guessing sooner or later the shock would have came all the way up on its own. I think. So is this shock rebounding to slow or is this just normal ? I thought it was kunda odd. Again I am not familiar with this rear non adjustable shock. Please elaborate. :sled1:

When you pushed down on the rear...did you have the sled sitting on Dollies or sitting on the ground? If on the Dollies take them out from under the sled and try it again.
 
dollies

I did put sled on dollies but cant remember if I did that before or after the shock test. I will try it again this weekend. Cannondale when I squashed it down and let go it came up within 3 seconds than I could raise it manually another 2 to 3 inches. Does having my springs set on lightest position on square blocks have anything to do with how fast it comes back up?,
 
2-3 sec is very reasonable. The higher the spring tension the faster it will rebound. If faster than 2 sec the shock is under valved and will cause kick or the spring tension is excessive and will cause a very stiff ride. If slower than 3-4 sec the shock shock is over valved and will not properly rebound with multiple consecutive hits or there is a mechanical bind or weak springs causing suspension to bottom out. One misconception is that the internal shock pressure (typ 200#) helps holds the suspension open... it doesn't! It is not like an air shock. The nitrogen charge is only there to reduce the oil from cavitation in an extreme hard compression.
 
I'm thinking I am ging to try and find teh AC shock specs and have mine revalved to those. Not sure if I will go LR or ZR or if they nare even different. Rode a friends older Sno Pro yesterday and it is 100% better in the whoopps than my RTX. It seems tha Yamaha does not get shocks.
 


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