Roman Rider
Newbie
Getting ready to stud the wife's LTX SE, it's the 2 ply ripsaw II track 137, going with 144 gold diggers and planning on alternating rows of double and single backers: 2-4-2-4 in as much of a v pattern as I can. Not using a template, I normally just freehand the pattern to get more scratch lines due to human error laying them out. However after laying out the first 4 rows of backer plates before marking, I noticed the little ramps on the inside of the track where the idler wheels ride between the inside lugs.
Is it a problem if the head of the studs are over/on these ramps? I figure it might tilt the studs to the side a little but for any of you that may have done this has it caused any trouble yet. I realize that ideally it's best to avoid the stud head running over the wheels but with those ramps in there it might be unavoidable if I want much variation of stud locations.
Is it a problem if the head of the studs are over/on these ramps? I figure it might tilt the studs to the side a little but for any of you that may have done this has it caused any trouble yet. I realize that ideally it's best to avoid the stud head running over the wheels but with those ramps in there it might be unavoidable if I want much variation of stud locations.
almond1000
Pro
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2008
- Messages
- 190
- Age
- 49
- Location
- North Fond du lac, Wi.
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 sidewinder 2011 vector gt 2010 fx nytro 2009 vector gt
I used all double angle backers in mine when I did it, I went with a pattern of 4-2-4 on my 129, I used a small grinder with a 1-1/2" pad and ground the ramps flush with the track since the head of a stud with angle backer sits higher on one side. now all the heads are flush, 700 miles and no issues
Ikenheimer
Veteran
I installed 144 with double backers every other row and singles inside the quiet ramps on the other rows 4-2-4-2 pattern. You can go right over the ramps without having to grind them down. I used plastic backers and have 800 miles so far and totally fine. If you use metal backers you can suck them all the way in so they are flush, plastics just torque to spec (20 lbs or so). Some of them sit a little crooked due to the quiet ramps but works fine-you can do a search on Cat site about studding quiet tracks.
Roman Rider
Newbie
Thanks for the replies! I have the Woody's aluminum backers, maybe I'll try a couple without grinding the ramps and see how they sit.
skidooslayer687
Expert
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2013
- Messages
- 251
- Location
- Almonte, Ont.
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha Sr Viper LTX SE
Have around 800 miles with 144 woodys in the 4-2-4-2 pattern with metal backers and never have had an issue, just went and re-torqued all of them the other day, heads are now all sitting flush without putting the stud at any angle at all
Rye_Guy78
Extreme
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2014
- Messages
- 65
- Age
- 54
- Location
- Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2015 SR Viper LTX SE
I started studding mine today and I have the same concern with the quiet ramps interfering with the studs. Has anyone had issues with this? I have studded lots of tracks but this is the first single ply track.
Use aluminum backers with nuts and tighten till head is below the bump. If you use plastic backers you will strip them doing this.
bleedyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 1,490
- Location
- Northern Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Yamaha Sidewinder Rtx Le 2012 Yamaha Vector Ltx
Stud away like they are not there. Like cannondale said with aluminum backers tighten them down till the head sucks in flesh with the bumps.
Similar threads
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.