john10toe
Pro
Seems there are hundreds of different parameters used for studding a track. Everyone has different methods and reasons to determine stud manufacturer, style, number, length, and location of studs for their particular riding style. Many threads have been started to discuss this in great depth and I didn't want to start another. The intent of this thread is to simply discuss Quiet Pads.
Until I bought my Yamaha Sidewinder I was totally unaware of the studding dilemma in a track with Quiet Pads. I was not content with the original installation so I rethought the process and I found an easy and effective way to stud a track with Quiet Pads….
I have been using Woody’s products for years so I contacted Woody’s product support via email a couple of times and received call-backs quickly. I also was fortunate enough to speak with a Woody’s rep at the Toronto Snowmobile Show. Thanks for your support Woody’s!! Many of my questions about stud length, style, and number were answered…….but as far as the Quiet Pad issue went, seems there were no real answers .
I read every possible discussion in TY Forums about studding my Sidewinder. Some guys say studding in the Quiet Pads is a nonissue. Other say stay away from the Quiet Pads and absolutely no studs in the center 3” of the track?? So….no studs in the centre 3" and no studs in the Quiet Pads?? Not much surface area left. Guessing that is why a bunch of guys go with the Ice Ripper factory studded track??
I didn't want to replace my track on a new sled so I proceeded to stud my Yamaha Sidewinder RTX LE 129” track with 135 Woody’s Gold Diggers ignoring the fact that some studs fell on the Quiet Pads. I used a standard “V” shaped pattern with one Double Digger and one single per bar. It soon became apparent that the studs that fell on the Quiet Pads did not have the same penetration, they were cocked off to the side, and they were protruding up on the Quiet Pads inside causing them to contact idler wheels and the plastic drivers. After the install I noticed the track / studs made a heck of a racket hitting the drivers. My OCD kicked in and I was not happy with this result.
So I started thinking……..I made a rudimentary cutting tool using one of the Gold Diggers. I simply cut 3 equally shaped triangular pieces out of the stud flange and sharpened the now knife shaped flanges with a file. I also had to grind the base of the stud to remove the slightly larger shoulder (seat flange) at the base of the threads to allow this tool to spin freely in the track. Now I inserted the tool into the track as if it was a regular stud and attached my cordless drill to the stud shank. For the first few cuts I was concerned that the tool might gouge the rubber but I was surprised at how easy and well it worked. No gouging, no burning, just a perfect footprint of the stud in the Quiet Pad. At first I thought the tool was dull but after it warmed up from friction it removed the Quiet Pad material like a hot knife through butter. I kept my shop vac handy to suck up the debris. After installing and torquing the stud I found the best fit was achieved by leaving about 1/16" of the Quiet Pad intact above the inner track surface which enabled the stud to seat nicely.
I was concerned about possible delamination of the track or Quiet Pad material around the studs so I wanted to test it before passing along any information, but I took pictures along the way. I studded my track before the sled saw snow. Over 1000 miles on my Sidewinder now with lots of high speed runs and no issues whatsoever. Absolutely no buzz or vibration from the drivers. Quiet Pads work exactly as they were designed. Seems the little recess where the stud sits works perfectly. Absolutely no contact between the studs and the drivers or idler wheels……Quiet Pads work exactly as designed. I don’t have a picture of this but when the sled is running in snow the little divot between the stud and the top of the Quiet Pad fills with ice so there isn’t any recess at all.
My tool is not the greatest design but it really works well. One thing I did wrong if you take notice is that my cutting edges face the wrong direction so they only cut when the drill is in reverse which loosens the drill chuck occasionally. Also with my tool you need to remove it from the drill for each cut. It may work equally as well with an additional boss on top of the cutter so the tool could stay in the drill at all times and the drill would be positioned towards the inside of the track fitting the boss in the cored out hole to make each cut?? I will make another prototype to try. Guessing this extra cutting process of counter sinking the studs into the Quiet Pads would only add about 30 minutes to the studding procedure. After my success I would really be hard pressed to go back to a conventional track without the Quiet Pads.
With the many hours searching everywhere on the internet, visiting manufacturer’s sites and different forums I found hundreds of complaint about studding Quiet Pads but no one had any solutions. I could not find where anyone has used my technique. I contacted Woody’s one more time and technical support was impressed with this methodology. With any luck a simple inexpensive tool can be produced??
Sorry to get so long winded…..pictures to follow….
Until I bought my Yamaha Sidewinder I was totally unaware of the studding dilemma in a track with Quiet Pads. I was not content with the original installation so I rethought the process and I found an easy and effective way to stud a track with Quiet Pads….
I have been using Woody’s products for years so I contacted Woody’s product support via email a couple of times and received call-backs quickly. I also was fortunate enough to speak with a Woody’s rep at the Toronto Snowmobile Show. Thanks for your support Woody’s!! Many of my questions about stud length, style, and number were answered…….but as far as the Quiet Pad issue went, seems there were no real answers .
I read every possible discussion in TY Forums about studding my Sidewinder. Some guys say studding in the Quiet Pads is a nonissue. Other say stay away from the Quiet Pads and absolutely no studs in the center 3” of the track?? So….no studs in the centre 3" and no studs in the Quiet Pads?? Not much surface area left. Guessing that is why a bunch of guys go with the Ice Ripper factory studded track??
I didn't want to replace my track on a new sled so I proceeded to stud my Yamaha Sidewinder RTX LE 129” track with 135 Woody’s Gold Diggers ignoring the fact that some studs fell on the Quiet Pads. I used a standard “V” shaped pattern with one Double Digger and one single per bar. It soon became apparent that the studs that fell on the Quiet Pads did not have the same penetration, they were cocked off to the side, and they were protruding up on the Quiet Pads inside causing them to contact idler wheels and the plastic drivers. After the install I noticed the track / studs made a heck of a racket hitting the drivers. My OCD kicked in and I was not happy with this result.
So I started thinking……..I made a rudimentary cutting tool using one of the Gold Diggers. I simply cut 3 equally shaped triangular pieces out of the stud flange and sharpened the now knife shaped flanges with a file. I also had to grind the base of the stud to remove the slightly larger shoulder (seat flange) at the base of the threads to allow this tool to spin freely in the track. Now I inserted the tool into the track as if it was a regular stud and attached my cordless drill to the stud shank. For the first few cuts I was concerned that the tool might gouge the rubber but I was surprised at how easy and well it worked. No gouging, no burning, just a perfect footprint of the stud in the Quiet Pad. At first I thought the tool was dull but after it warmed up from friction it removed the Quiet Pad material like a hot knife through butter. I kept my shop vac handy to suck up the debris. After installing and torquing the stud I found the best fit was achieved by leaving about 1/16" of the Quiet Pad intact above the inner track surface which enabled the stud to seat nicely.
I was concerned about possible delamination of the track or Quiet Pad material around the studs so I wanted to test it before passing along any information, but I took pictures along the way. I studded my track before the sled saw snow. Over 1000 miles on my Sidewinder now with lots of high speed runs and no issues whatsoever. Absolutely no buzz or vibration from the drivers. Quiet Pads work exactly as they were designed. Seems the little recess where the stud sits works perfectly. Absolutely no contact between the studs and the drivers or idler wheels……Quiet Pads work exactly as designed. I don’t have a picture of this but when the sled is running in snow the little divot between the stud and the top of the Quiet Pad fills with ice so there isn’t any recess at all.
My tool is not the greatest design but it really works well. One thing I did wrong if you take notice is that my cutting edges face the wrong direction so they only cut when the drill is in reverse which loosens the drill chuck occasionally. Also with my tool you need to remove it from the drill for each cut. It may work equally as well with an additional boss on top of the cutter so the tool could stay in the drill at all times and the drill would be positioned towards the inside of the track fitting the boss in the cored out hole to make each cut?? I will make another prototype to try. Guessing this extra cutting process of counter sinking the studs into the Quiet Pads would only add about 30 minutes to the studding procedure. After my success I would really be hard pressed to go back to a conventional track without the Quiet Pads.
With the many hours searching everywhere on the internet, visiting manufacturer’s sites and different forums I found hundreds of complaint about studding Quiet Pads but no one had any solutions. I could not find where anyone has used my technique. I contacted Woody’s one more time and technical support was impressed with this methodology. With any luck a simple inexpensive tool can be produced??
Sorry to get so long winded…..pictures to follow….
john10toe
Pro
john10toe
Pro
john10toe
Pro
john10toe
Pro
john10toe
Pro
john10toe
Pro
john10toe
Pro
good engineering...you are even more anal that me..lol
but honestly...its a mute point.....
thousands of studdings with no effect other than a tad less penetration...and slight raised head surface..
but with a thin headed stud...its even less of an issue
but honestly...its a mute point.....
thousands of studdings with no effect other than a tad less penetration...and slight raised head surface..
but with a thin headed stud...its even less of an issue
Doc Harley
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2016
- Messages
- 3,699
- Age
- 56
- Location
- Here & there
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 Sidewinder LTX SE
Nice work!
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
Excellent work on this!!
Mighty
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 4,794
- Age
- 62
- Location
- Grand Ledge Michigan USA!
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 22 Mach Z
23 Sidewinder SRX
Nice work. I used thinner headed extreme max that bury themselves quite well into the pads. I did the same on my ZR9000 last season with great results.
That is a great idea! Had to wait almost 10000 mi to fix my studded track. Got replacement without those stupid nubs and fully clipped. Well done.
Jafo1970
Pro
Looks good. If I had time I would probably do that. I just torque down the studs that are in the pads more so the rubber bulges over and no issues. 4 sleds at 15,000 miles later and no issues.
LouTurbo
Expert
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2016
- Messages
- 208
- Location
- Vaughan, ON Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder LTX LE, Hurricane Tune on the fly
Pilot Skiis,
- LOCATION
- Woodbridge, ON
Very slick indeed...
