WinterWolf
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Excellent post Dan...very informative. Oh yes, I'm going 4 per bar on my 129" track, outers too! So that would be 180 studs verses the 192 of old on the 121" tracks, due to the increase in pitch to 2.86.
I've been using Woody's Megabites on both my Mach Z, and my Apex when I had them...never bent a One even with the smaller nuts. The Megabites are a thicker sturdier stud than the Gold Diggers it seems(although probably a lil heavier too). I'll be using the Megabites on my new Sidewinder too.
I've been using Woody's Megabites on both my Mach Z, and my Apex when I had them...never bent a One even with the smaller nuts. The Megabites are a thicker sturdier stud than the Gold Diggers it seems(although probably a lil heavier too). I'll be using the Megabites on my new Sidewinder too.
WinterWolf
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Are the "Short Big Nuts" bigger than the normal lock nuts??
If I order the 1.450" Studs...do they come with the "Short Big Nuts?" Or the normal lock nuts? Assuming there is a difference between the two??
If I order the 1.450" Studs...do they come with the "Short Big Nuts?" Or the normal lock nuts? Assuming there is a difference between the two??
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ROCKERDAN
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Excellent post Dan...very informative. Oh yes, I'm going 4 per bar on my 129" track, outers too! So that would be 180 studs verses the 192 of old on the 121" tracks, due to the increase in pitch to 2.86.
I've been using Woody's Megabites on both my Mach Z, and my Apex when I had them...never bent a One even with the smaller nuts. The Megabites are a thicker sturdier stud than the Gold Diggers it seems(although probably a lil heavier too). I'll be using the Megabites on my new Sidewinder too.
Megabites seem to have gained a good rep...I almost went with them as they are cheaper then GDs. But I really have used GDs my whole life pretty much, and never had one even bend. The cupped head with its exclusive trapping design is the big reason I stick with the king of studs. I think they penetrate better then the mega too abit. I would say mega is also a top knotch stud for sure too.
Not a fan of all the narrow lake ice studs, although they are amazing for ice penetration and hookup, I just want more life and durability out of a stud. And Ive seen how easy the lake race styles can be hurt. Id rather add some chisels for "radar days" and remove them after for trails.
The single ply ''grand master" studs are super durable too....maybe even more then GDs....I studded my single ply "ice attak" pre-studded track last season on my 4tec and man those studs are massive. Only drawback would be more weight, but sure will last. I know of some guys who run them even on 2 ply tracks, for extra gripping and less worry of pull out with the massive heads and backers.
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krm
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Woodys come with the 1/2" alumn nuts .I ended up using the 3/4" nuts .Are the "Short Big Nuts" bigger than the normal lock nuts??
If I order the 1.450" Studs...do they come with the "Short Big Nuts?" Or the normal lock nuts? Assuming there is a difference between the two??
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ROCKERDAN
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Are the "Short Big Nuts" bigger than the normal lock nuts??
If I order the 1.450" Studs...do they come with the "Short Big Nuts?" Or the normal lock nuts? Assuming there is a difference between the two??
Yes, if you read the woodys definition i posted earlier, they use the normal nuts for other sizes. And the normal nuts are very short. Thats why they title them "short big nuts" then "Long big nuts".
As shown in my pics, the 1.450 come with "short big nuts" or what I call MEDIUM NUTS(just makes more sense to me)
TALLEST nuts only come with their 1.575"
- Short Big Nuts (ALN2-4500) included with 1.325" & 1.450" lengths. Long Big Nuts (ALN2-7000) included with 1.575" length. Standard lock nuts included with other sizes.
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WinterWolf
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Exactly! That's why I've been using the Megabites on the last two sleds...they are very durable..hold up to abuse. Good to hear the Goldiggers have been very durable too..I had 192 of those on my 2000 Thundercat and they worked well for me back then too.
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ROCKERDAN
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Wow, you bent some with those eh? You are an animal KEN! lolWoodys come with the 1/2" alumn nuts .I ended up using the 3/4" nuts .
WinterWolf
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Ya the "Medium Nuts" makes more sense lol. So the 1.450" Studs come with the Medium Nuts/Short Big Nuts. Thanks for the clarifications...appreciated.
WinterWolf
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On the pictures of your buddy's sled Dan on the last page...it looks like he has the Normal Nuts(they look small) with his studs?? Is that true???
LouTurbo
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What about the bumps on the track inner, ignore and torque over them or remove to a flat ?
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krm
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It's a track made for cat called a silent track .Just tighten the studs up .What about the bumps on the track inner, ignore and torque over them or remove to a flat ?
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ROCKERDAN
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Yeah I had wrote that in the post back a few....Not sure his brand. And his have no bends(yet) but they look like a normal nut, as they are not woodys brand studs on buds sled.On the pictures of your buddy's sled Dan on the last page...it looks like he has the Normal Nuts(they look small) with his studs?? Is that true???
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ROCKERDAN
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Some guys say to flatten that silent track hump, but I will likely just tighten them down into it.
Swampfox
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Ok. This has been all good info. And I thought I was pretty set on 180 studs. Then I see the 4-2 pattern and like that idea. We do ride the tighter trails in Wisconsin when snow allows. I'm wondering if I would be better with that pattern. Just wasn't sure it would be enough to hook up if I'm in the 280 hp range.
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ROCKERDAN
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Ok. This has been all good info. And I thought I was pretty set on 180 studs. Then I see the 4-2 pattern and like that idea. We do ride the tighter trails in Wisconsin when snow allows. I'm wondering if I would be better with that pattern. Just wasn't sure it would be enough to hook up if I'm in the 280 hp range.
Hooking up 280 is pretty much impossible, LOL. And by no means will 136 do that. Studding is a very personal subjective thing. Its unlike most other things we do to our sleds that are either good or not good. I typically am in the minority with my lesser stud quantities, especially compared to a forum where many are aimed at pure hook-up performance. Nothing wrong with that at all.
I just tend to like a loose sled that is easiest steering in tight trails. You do need to control your right thumb with some common sense when running less studs, and if you live in the south like many of you do, and ride in marginal conditions you really needs to be aware of your base on the trail when you hit the flipper. Lots to think about, but over all these yrs I have been lucky and never had so much as even a bent stud. I hear horror stories all the time and im sure they happen.
One thing with the 136 pattern, is that is a very popular pattern and I have seen it many many times on trail sleds. If you feel you need more its so easy to add more after, and get it to where you feel its better. If you do add outers, I would always add at minimum, every other outer(or more) to keep those safer from tears. But one thing is for certain, outers will hurt your turning ability on hardpack in tight trails, and for me this is why its rare for me to ever stud outers.
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