Team Fast 136" M20 - 2011+ Apex XTX (Version 1.0)

[Soldier'spapa]

that's slick.....nice work Papa!

Wish I could take the credit but just following "Fast's" instructions.

Fast sent me the kit to remotely install the comp under hood and switch/gauge in console area. I did not like the looks of the tunnel mounted deal. Install would have been much easier but ease of install is not what I'm after.

While Joe's work is spectacular with the SS braided lines and fancy actuators... I will put mine together using the poly lines and components Fast sent in my kit. I am, however, gleaning lots of helpful tips from this thread and kudo's to Joe and all the guys that have provided insight to the install and use of the M-20!!! I have read every post.

Next up for me ...as I find time... will be to mount the comp. I have come up with a version of northernsledder.jk's bracket made from aluminum that should do the trick. I'll post pics when it's finished.

Thanks again!

 

[yamahatd]

Doug, installed mine using the poly airlines supplied by Fast. Be careful with the routing, my first attempt had a line too close to the head and it melted, thankfully i was only loading it on the trailer when all the air left the system. Be sure not to kink the lines either. Solder the electric connections where possible and place them carefully. I think have some pics I could share if you'd like, let me know.

Good Luck!

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Doug, installed mine using the poly airlines supplied by Fast. Be careful with the routing, my first attempt had a line too close to the head and it melted, thankfully i was only loading it on the trailer when all the air left the system. Be sure not to kink the lines either. Solder the electric connections where possible and place them carefully. I think have some pics I could share if you'd like, let me know.

Good Luck!

I have a question regarding the poly lines... The switch I was supplied with has brass "barbed" ports on it. I received no clamps. Is it okay to simply push the line on without clamping or did I not get all the hardware I should have??

 

[Soldier'spapa]

I finished the Comp location this afternoon. I used a 2"x 2" aluminum angle... 9" long. I ripped one side down to 1". It is bolted through the headlight bracket into the frame using the existing bolts. 2 1/2" angle would have been better but didn't look any farther than Menards. The extra length compressor mounting bolts fit nicely into the "honey comb" cavity behind the bracket.

I know.... I need to clean my clutches! The heavy spring and summer moisture must have been trapped in my enclosed trailer. Looking at them you would think I trailer my sleds in the open...

 

[Redbeard]

I finished the Comp location this afternoon. I used a 2"x 2" aluminum angle... 9" long. I ripped one side down to 1". It is bolted through the headlight bracket into the frame using the existing bolts. 2 1/2" angle would have been better but didn't look any farther than Menards. The extra length compressor mounting bolts fit nicely into the "honey comb" cavity behind the bracket.

I know.... I need to clean my clutches! The heavy spring and summer moisture must have been trapped in my enclosed trailer. Looking at them you would think I trailer my sleds in the open...

That looks nice Doug and is no doubt much lighter than my steel bracket! Keep the pics coming in!

I have a question regarding the poly lines... The switch I was supplied with has brass "barbed" ports on it. I received no clamps. Is it okay to simply push the line on without clamping or did I not get all the hardware I should have??

I think the air line just pushes onto the barb. I do not believe there is a clamp to secure it.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Thanks Joe!

You mentioned in a text to me that I should pickup a check valve because the internals of the compressor were inadequate at holding the air pressure. Pictured in your post #131, aside from the 45 degree fitting on the end it looks like your compressor is identical to mine. Did you add something after that pic was posted?

 

[Redbeard]

Thanks Joe!

You mentioned in a text to me that I should pickup a check valve because the internals of the compressor were inadequate at holding the air pressure. Pictured in your post #131, aside from the 45 degree fitting on the end it looks like your compressor is identical to mine. Did you add something after that pic was posted?

No, I have not added anything else to my compressor since I posted the picture you mentioned above. I was suggesting that you add an in-line check valve, but noticed in the text you sent me that your compressor already had one. That's a plus! My original compressor did not have an in-line check valve. I broke the compressor head trying to add one in! Fortunately, the new compressor I ordered came with one.

Looks like you're good to go!

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Excellent!

I thought that might be the case but wanted confirmation from you.

Thanks Again!

 

[Redbeard]

Excellent!

I thought that might be the case but wanted confirmation from you.

Thanks Again!

One more thing, leave yourself an out in case of pump failure on the trail: I put a schrader valve in my plumbing (right under the pressure gauge) so I could air up / down the rear shock manually with a Fox hand pump if needed.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

One more thing, leave yourself an out in case of pump failure on the trail: I put a schrader valve in my plumbing (right under the pressure gauge) so I could air up / down the rear shock manually with a Fox hand pump if needed.

I saw that, good advise... but wait... things always go as planned, right, so whats the need???

 

[Soldier'spapa]

I made a little more progress today. I chose to mount the gauge and switch behind and above the stock gauge cluster. Here are a few pict:

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Wrapped up the install today. I used the DOT air line Fast provided in the kit to run all the air. It is connected using compression fittings in all locations except the switch (which has barbed ports). There I simply pushed the line all the way in. Upon researching the air bag system I found these same switches are used to operate air bags on trucks. That being the case, it seemed like it would be okay on my sled too. I setup the air lines leading to the gauge and switch (located above the headlights) with extra length coiled to allow for removal and re-positioning if I need access for servicing. The line running down the outside of the tunnel is run through a 30" long 3/8" nickel/copper brake line. The metal tubing is easily hand bent and will now provide added protection to the poly line that would have otherweise been exposed.

As Joe suggested I have a plan for an air system failure. I have a schrader valve and necessary tools on board to remove the line at the tunnel fitting and replace with the schrader. it would be a 10 minute job to adapt to the air spring and inflate using my Fox hand pump.

Along with the M-20 addition for this season I have added the WRP seat mod and a touring windshield. Yet to come (Should have them within a week of so) are Elks Stage 5 shocks with dual rate springs, hi/low speed comp and rebound adjustment. The shocks will be calibrated and valved to my weight and riding style. The company I chose for the shocks said they have calibrated them before to work with the M-20 but will re-calibrate at no additional cost if it's not right.

Hope this summer's projects will make this sled into the best cruiser I have owned to date.... Come on SNOW!

 

[Redbeard]

Looks great! Thanks for posting pictures of your sled and your M20 installation! Keep us posted on your ride impressions, etc when the snow flies.

I have not even turned a wrench on my sled since spring. I have everything I need to link my front shocks into the air system, but I got too busy with work and shelved the project. However.......this cool air in the morning has me thinking about my sleds again! Maybe I'll get back to it once harvest is wrapped up.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

I have been doing a little investigation regarding slides for the m-20. I have used the Dupont Vespel slides on the mono and really liked the performance of them and was hoping to use them or something similar on the new skid. Any suggestions?

Also, anyone try using larger diameter rear axle wheels?

 

[Redbeard]

I have been doing a little investigation regarding slides for the m-20. I have used the Dupont Vespel slides on the mono and really liked the performance of them and was hoping to use them or something similar on the new skid. Any suggestions?

Also, anyone try using larger diameter rear axle wheels?

Doug,
Dupont slides will fit the M20 rail, but it's a loose fit. The T-slot on a Yamaha slide is about 2mm wider than the Fast slide. You would also have to drill a new hyfax screw hole. All in all, it may be worth a shot, but the loose fit would concern me the most. I'd feel better if there was a second hyfax screw at the rear of the rails.