Team Fast 136" M20 - 2011+ Apex XTX (Version 1.0)

[Soldier'spapa]

Thanks for the reply Joe!

I spoke with Brian at Fast recently and he gave me that same info. I am going to run the stock slides to start with and then switch to Dupont's when they are worn.

I have a new question: How tight are you guys running the limiter strap. I have the new design with the bolt/jam nut to fine tune it. Brian told me "Adjust it to where the track is sitting level on the garage floor". What I failed to ask him was if the adjustment is made with rider weight on the seat or if it even mattered...?

 

[Redbeard]

Thanks for the reply Joe!

I spoke with Brian at Fast recently and he gave me that same info. I am going to run the stock slides to start with and then switch to Dupont's when they are worn.

I have a new question: How tight are you guys running the limiter strap. I have the new design with the bolt/jam nut to fine tune it. Brian told me "Adjust it to where the track is sitting level on the garage floor". What I failed to ask him was if the adjustment is made with rider weight on the seat or if it even mattered...?

The limiter strap is a good question on the M20 with one rear track shock! To be honest, I don't know how to offer good advice other than trying different settings once on the trail. I have mine adjusted all the way out so it will squat when I take off for more traction. You run studs, so maybe hook-up will not be an issue for you.

 

[Redbeard]

PHASE TWO - CONNECTING THE FRONT SHOCKS TO THE AIR SYSTEM

I caught an hour today and soldered wires to my front / rear selector switch. Next step is to bench test the switches, air pump and solenoids to make sure things are going to work.

...stay tuned!

Open the link below to view the improved air system wiring and plumbing on my 2008 Vector LTX:

http://ty4stroke.com/threads/team-fast-m20-vector-ltx.141902/

 

[Redbeard]

Wiring and mock-up plumbing is on the bench now. I'm not only testing the wiring, but also to make sure the air system will hold two different air pressures (front and rear). Instead of pulling the air pump power through the front/rear selector switch, the switch trips a relay to pull pump power straight from the battery. I have a 5 amp fuse running all the solenoids; it hasn't burned out yet, so that means the current draw there is low.

My snowmoshop is destroyed, so please excuse the mess!

...more to come!

 

[Soldier'spapa]

You are ambitious my friend!!

 

[Redbeard]

Bench testing of wiring and plumbing is complete. Figuring out how to successfully hold two different air pressure settings was quite frustrating. I found that air pressure over 100 psi would back-feed through the solenoids and screw things up. Example: If I had 50 psi in the ski shock circuit and then aired the rear up to 100+, that would back-feed into the ski shocks and raise the pressure. I reversed the direction of the solenoids thinking maybe I assembled them backwards...still no luck. I almost threw in the towel at this point. The last thing I tried was to double-up on the rear shock solenoids. I oriented one so it will hold positive pressure towards the shock while the other holds pressure towards the pump....that did the trick! I'm not certain if I need to double-up on the ski solenoids yet (yellow arrow), but I'm making provisions in the wiring and plumbing in case it's needed.

I wanted to keep the solenoids close to a good heat source so they will not freeze up. Getting everything to fit is proving to be a challenge, but I think it will work once some brackets are made to hold everything in place. I'm going to try and make everything come apart with little effort for engine/spark plug service.

Not shown is the actual right/left ski shock solenoids. I'm not able to place them where I would like because of the limited space. More pics to come as I progress in the coming weeks. More powder coating to come also.

...stay tuned!

 

[Redbeard]

Pipe and swivel fittings for the air system are on order. There will be a minimal amount of fittings to hopefully reduce the chance of air leaks.

In the meantime, I worked on the wiring and installed relays to control the system. Key relay: powered from the key and provides power for the entire system. This relay will not allow anything to activate without the sled running. Pump relay: provides power to the air pump when the (+) air switch is pressed. I tried to place these components in an easy access location in case of problems.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Joe,

Did you use solid state relay's? Standard relay's are more prone to freezing/sticking in clod temps.

 

[Redbeard]

Joe,

Did you use solid state relay's? Standard relay's are more prone to freezing/sticking in clod temps.

I used standard automotive relays and filled the plug sockets with dielectric grease.. Now you have me second guessing myself.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

I used standard automotive relays and filled the plug sockets with dielectric grease.. Now you have me second guessing myself.

Stupid question - How does one know if a relay is solid state? I put in a relay system in my new 2014 Vector and THINK I used an automotive type.

 

[Redbeard]

Stupid question - How does one know if a relay is solid state? I put in a relay system in my new 2014 Vector and THINK I used an automotive type.

Solid state relays basically have no moving internal parts:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solid_state_relay

 

[Soldier'spapa]

I used standard automotive relays and filled the plug sockets with dielectric grease.. Now you have me second guessing myself.

I'm sure the standard relays will be fine. I only brought it up because of the obvious excellence of your work. It just seemed fitting that "top shelf" components go into the build.

Looking foward to more pics!

 

[Redbeard]

The left ski solenoid mounting bracket is finished. The solenoid fastens to a small piece of aluminum angle that bolts to the compressor mounting bracket. Tight fit, but it will work!
Now I have to start on the right ski solenoid bracket.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Nice work...as always!

 

[Redbeard]

Right ski solenoid bracket is finished. The bracket needed to turn 45 degrees to get around the thermostat housing, so I bent a piece of 1/4" x 1" aluminum strip and welded it to a strip of 1/8" x 2". With 5 mm longer bolts, the bracket sandwiches on with the oil tank.

I almost placed the ski shock solenoids closer to the shock towers, but I didn't want to drill through the delta box to mount them. Having the solenoids mounted that far forward would have also made the air line to the shock very short. A shorter line would be better, but I felt a longer line would allow more give for the shock moving up and down.

Next on the agenda is to mount the other solenoids to the "bridge bracket" that holds the headlight assembly in place.