Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
New Ripsaw II 136 came the other day.
Last edited:
smoothride
Lifetime Member
Just FYI you willn't have ice build up in the tunnel because this suspension uses up all the room in the tunnel.
NS, do you plan on studding? I was wondering if the ripsawII comes in a pre-drilled version.
Redbeard
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yamahatd said:NS, do you plan on studding? I was wondering if the ripsawII comes in a pre-drilled version.
At this time, I do not plan on studding. I'm not sure if there is a pre drilled version of the Ripsaw II or not.
Redbeard
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The stock drop brackets are gone, but I found the tunnel too flimsy without them. I made new, smaller brackets out of 11ga steel to add strength back to this area while allowing more room for the M20 drop brackets. This will also allow me to reuse the stock brackets if I ever decide to sell the sled. The stock brackets are $85 each.
I will powder coat everything before final assembly. Stay tuned!
I will powder coat everything before final assembly. Stay tuned!
Last edited:
Nice work, I used my stock brackets, just relocated them per instructions. Keep the photos coming.
Redbeard
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I wish I could have relocated and reused the stock brackets, but it would not work with this sled. They stuck down way too far, plus the muffler bolts to them...what a pain! I could have just cut them off flush with the heat exchanger, but they still would have been in the way of the M20 brackets. Also, I've never seen anything like the M20 brackets; the right side is specially machined to lock the rear swing arm cross shaft into place, so the stock brackets could not have been used anyway.
I'll get some more pics and post later.
I'll get some more pics and post later.
Redbeard
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Here's the brackets and rear cross shaft for the M20.
Last edited:
Mine came with a different set up, but the same end result. The locking bracket was seperate. I have an 07
Redbeard
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The descriptions below only apply to Delta Box sleds that require the universal rear arm brackets. For LTX applications, refer to page 2, post #18 in this link:
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/team-fast-m20-vector-ltx.141902/page-2
APEX XTX M20 LOCATIONS:
As per instructions, I used a 3/16" bit to drill through a factory pilot hole in each footwell (white arrow). These holes serve as a benchmark to attach a supplied template that locates the rear swing arm.
If it weren't for extrovert drivers, the drilled-out stock pilot holes would be the exact location of the front swingarm...Ezzy...Peezzy! This sled, however, is equipped with extrovert drivers, so the front arm will mount 24mm further back on the tunnel (orange arrow). This allows the front swing arm cross tube to clear the extrovert drive teeth. I still used the stock pilot hole to mount the template, but drilled an additional 3/16" hole 24mm farther back to locate my front arm.
The BLUE ARROW is for mounting of an M10 air front arm. DO NOT DRILL OUT THIS HOLE FOR M20 FRONT ARM INSTALLATION! M10's and M20's have different geometry and mount to different locations on the tunnel.
Moving the front arm holes rearward on the tunnel to accommodate extrovert drivers, also requires the entire front swingarm and front shock to be moved rearward on the suspension rails. Make sure you discuss with Fast whether or not your sled has extrovert drivers, so your skid can be shipped accordingly!
Top of tunnel to center of rear swing arm mounting hole = 179mm (as per M20 instructions). The M20 drop brackets were too tall and had to be trimmed to clear the radius at the top of the tunnel. I measured everything on the workbench and tack welded a strip of sheet metal so that it's edge was exactly 179mm from from the center of the mounting hole while remaining parallel with the top edge of the drop bracket.
The strip offsets the tunnel radius and allowed me to push the bracket up into place and start drilling holes. I'll break off the strip before powdercoat and final assembly.
Note* Since 2013, Team Fast has lowered the rear swing arm location, which allows for more track lug clearance and easier installation.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/team-fast-m20-vector-ltx.141902/page-2
APEX XTX M20 LOCATIONS:
As per instructions, I used a 3/16" bit to drill through a factory pilot hole in each footwell (white arrow). These holes serve as a benchmark to attach a supplied template that locates the rear swing arm.
If it weren't for extrovert drivers, the drilled-out stock pilot holes would be the exact location of the front swingarm...Ezzy...Peezzy! This sled, however, is equipped with extrovert drivers, so the front arm will mount 24mm further back on the tunnel (orange arrow). This allows the front swing arm cross tube to clear the extrovert drive teeth. I still used the stock pilot hole to mount the template, but drilled an additional 3/16" hole 24mm farther back to locate my front arm.
The BLUE ARROW is for mounting of an M10 air front arm. DO NOT DRILL OUT THIS HOLE FOR M20 FRONT ARM INSTALLATION! M10's and M20's have different geometry and mount to different locations on the tunnel.
Moving the front arm holes rearward on the tunnel to accommodate extrovert drivers, also requires the entire front swingarm and front shock to be moved rearward on the suspension rails. Make sure you discuss with Fast whether or not your sled has extrovert drivers, so your skid can be shipped accordingly!
Top of tunnel to center of rear swing arm mounting hole = 179mm (as per M20 instructions). The M20 drop brackets were too tall and had to be trimmed to clear the radius at the top of the tunnel. I measured everything on the workbench and tack welded a strip of sheet metal so that it's edge was exactly 179mm from from the center of the mounting hole while remaining parallel with the top edge of the drop bracket.
The strip offsets the tunnel radius and allowed me to push the bracket up into place and start drilling holes. I'll break off the strip before powdercoat and final assembly.
Note* Since 2013, Team Fast has lowered the rear swing arm location, which allows for more track lug clearance and easier installation.
Last edited:
Redbeard
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I've been a little busy and not had time for the sled. I'm preparing ground for soybeans. I no-till beans when possible, but with all the rain delaying planting, no-till is not an option.
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Redbeard
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I worked late in the shop and got a little more done:
I had to drill (4) new 3/8" mounting holes to attach the drop brackets to the tunnel. The stock holes fell right on the radius of the running board. I then reinforced the bracket and welded the unused 3/8" holes shut.
I had to drill (4) new 3/8" mounting holes to attach the drop brackets to the tunnel. The stock holes fell right on the radius of the running board. I then reinforced the bracket and welded the unused 3/8" holes shut.
Last edited:
smoothride
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You do need that notch in the first pic in your new plates to make the arms work to hold up the track when the suspension goes down.
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She is looking great!!! Keep up the good work.
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