Team Fast 136" M20 - 2011+ Apex XTX (Version 1.0)

[Redbeard]

I made some plates for the outside of the tunnel to tie all the rear brackets together. This step wasn't necessary, but it's June and I had the material to dress up the tunnel a little.

Now it's time for powder coat.

 

[yamahatd]

Nice work. ... my tunnel is painted so it would be a little more effort for me. Keep the photos coming.

 

[Redbeard]

I've been really busy with work, but I have managed to powder coat the tunnel brackets.

I bought some Silver Aluminum powder to match the tunnel, but I didn't care for how the parts looked after they came out of the oven. I ended up coating some of the brackets with the same flat black I used on my A arms and spindles back in January...I lost an argument with a rock and had to rebuild the left front, so I powder coated both sides while I had it torn apart.

Thanks again Pat's Yamaha in Greenland, MI for getting the parts sent out asap!

 

[yamahatd]

those parts look awesome. I love the tunnel plate with the tuning forks. Just need to paint the rivets black now

 

[MrSled]

Looking real nice... very good work.

 

[Redbeard]

I was going to just leave the stainless fasteners natural, but now I'm not sure. Can I get a consensus from everyone? Which looks better:

1) Natural stainless

-or-

2) Flat black powder coated fasteners

Any input is appreciated!

 

[kviper]

Stainless!

 

[thor452]

I like the stainless

 

[Redbeard]

I finished planting yesterday!!!!!

....good thing because it's raining again. It's a good soaking rain though; not 2" in 20 min like we have been getting.

Anyway, it's Fathers Day and the skid goes in tonight!
I used stainless 10-24 button head machine screws/nyloc nuts on everything I could.

Here's a few more pics before final assembly:

 

[Redbeard]

I have a mess to clean up, but the skid is in!

Next time I remove the skid, I'm going to change-out the hex bolts in the rear M20 drop brackets for socket head allen bolts. There's nothing wrong with the hex bolts in there now, they just don't look as good.

 

[MrSled]

WOW that is really looking nice. Great job!

 

[Redbeard]

I started mounting the air pump and running the airline through the tunnel. I would prefer to mount the pump under the hood, but I decided to go ahead and mount it to the tunnel for now. I temporarily ran a hot wire to the battery so I could leak test everything. So far so good.

To keep from drilling extra holes in the tunnel to mount the pump, I removed some existing rivets and put 10-24 screw studs back in their place. I then made a bracket that fits onto the studs and serves as the base for mounting the pump. This wasn't necessary, but if I decide to move things around, I'm only out a piece of 12ga steel and my time to powder coat it....and no extra holes in the tunnel!

 

[MrSled]

Why did fast go to the tunnel mount?? Not sure if I like that or not.

 

[Redbeard]

Why did fast go to the tunnel mount?? Not sure if I like that or not.

I agree Tom! I'm not sure about the pump being mounted there!

The pump is built well, but I'll still have to carry a hand pump for the ski shocks when I get those put on.

On the other hand, I believe Fast went this route because the system is simple. There is just one airline and installation is really easy. For about $50 - $75, I can upgrade to the thumb switch.

I spent about two extra hours making a mounting plate for mine, but that's my "easy out" for moving the pump later on without having any additional holes in the tunnel.

 

[MrSled]

Why did fast go to the tunnel mount?? Not sure if I like that or not.

I agree Tom! I'm not convinced either! The looks of the pump being there bothers me more than anything!

The pump is built well, but I've come to the conclusion that my setup is just one step above getting the Fox hand operated pump out. I'll still have to carry a hand pump for the ski shocks when I get those put on.

On the other hand, I believe Fast went this route because the system is simple. There is just one airline and installation is really easy. For about $50 - $75, I can upgrade to the thumb switch.

I spent about two extra hours making a mounting plate for mine, but that's my "easy out" for moving the pump later on without having any additional holes in the tunnel.

Maybe they did it because of all the leaking with all the different connections. I know the leaking can be fixed by using the correct fittings and tees. I think I have a thumb switch panel and all the teas from a kit I added from Ulmer on the SE shock thats long gone.