jake151
Veteran
Hi BLUEIRONRANGER is right. The only thing you have to do is cut the coller to the right length and have alonger bolt. In 1996 Yamaha put the YVX secondary on the phazer 2 unttil it was dicontinued in 1999. There are a few 1995-96 v-max yvx secondarys on ebay. After the 1996 v-max the YVX secondary changed these have to be machined 1997 and up need to be machined, The 1996-99 Phazer 2s don't require maching. Look at UP-Bushmans first page of this article and it will tell the length of the collar and bolt. Also helixs are avalable on ebay $20.00 and up. Have a good day 
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks everyone for weighing in on this question - I'm definitely going get the 96 Vmax 600 clutch and try and will let you know the results.
I overlooked your post and forgot about the splines on the early yvx secondaries.
Thank you guys GREAT info here.Added it to FAQ for Reverse secondary.
Jeffz
VIP Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2010
- Messages
- 600
- Location
- Cresco, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2008 Yamaha Nytro RTX 40th
2007 Phazer "RTX"
Can we get a list of what everyone is running for this secondary setup? Spring, helix, wrap, etc. Probably good to list what you are running for primary setup as well. The info is a little spread out in this thread. Thanks!
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Does the YVX secondary use the same length spring as the regular Phz secondary?
thanks,
thanks,
No it uses a different twist silver part #90508-556A7 is close to your stock spring.
I am running Ulmer clutch kit in Primary with custom rivets and a 45deg Helix with black spring with light blue mark in secondary.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
thanks again, the one I bought has a black spring with a red mark - do you know how close that would be to stock?UP bushman said:
Also the spring was set 9-2 if that is the right terminology - what would be a good starting point for me to try? The helix that came with it is a 8BV-90 (so 39 degrees).
I also got the original longer bolt and bushing - haven't put it on yet but I'm thinking it may fit good. (Will post pics later)
When reassembling the clutch, where does the drilled out marks (divots?)on the sheaves go in relation to each other (didn't notice their placement when I took it apart)? I imagine that is done for balance or something - one sheave has 2 divots and the other has 3.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
The helix that came with mine is a 8BV-90 (so 39 degrees). I'm setting it at 3-3 for the first test. Will use the black spring with a red mark - while waiting on the recommended spring (silver part #90508-556A7) to be ordered.
When reassembling the clutch, does it matter where the drilled out marks (divots?)on the sheaves go in relation to each other? I imagine that they are there for balance or something - one sheave has 2 divots and the other has 3.
Can someone explain how the offset is checked? And does anyone know the torque spec on the nuts that keep the helix on? They were good and tight when I removed them but I don't think the clutch was apart since new.
When reassembling the clutch, does it matter where the drilled out marks (divots?)on the sheaves go in relation to each other? I imagine that they are there for balance or something - one sheave has 2 divots and the other has 3.
Can someone explain how the offset is checked? And does anyone know the torque spec on the nuts that keep the helix on? They were good and tight when I removed them but I don't think the clutch was apart since new.
The red spring is one of the weakest.
Here's the order
Weakest to strongest.Not shure on the pink and white.Most of the flat land 4strokes come with a pink and some mtn sleds with the white.I would think the green or silver would work great in the phazers.The silver works good on the 3cylinder 4 strokes.
Red
Green
Silver
Pink
White
Here's the order
Weakest to strongest.Not shure on the pink and white.Most of the flat land 4strokes come with a pink and some mtn sleds with the white.I would think the green or silver would work great in the phazers.The silver works good on the 3cylinder 4 strokes.
Red
Green
Silver
Pink
White
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks, so if I wound it tighter than 3-3 would that make up for the weakness until I got a silver one? Any recommendations?pro116 said:
Also, any comment on the drilled marks on the sheaves? Re their placement to each other?
9-3 would be the tightest setting that would be 120degrees
3-3 would be 60 degrees.
There should be 3 boldts on the backside of the seconday.Thats how you adjust the beldt deflection.
You add a washer if the beldt is worn the the boldt comes farther out then so the sheaves will go closer together and if the beldt is new take a washer out and the boldt will go in farther spreading the sheaves.
3-3 would be 60 degrees.
There should be 3 boldts on the backside of the seconday.Thats how you adjust the beldt deflection.
You add a washer if the beldt is worn the the boldt comes farther out then so the sheaves will go closer together and if the beldt is new take a washer out and the boldt will go in farther spreading the sheaves.
jake151
Veteran
Hi, My recomendation is to put 3 new bolts and the thin shim washer, that's how I set mine up. This way will help it when you put it in reverse mine works excellent. The part # for the bolt is 90105-06731-00 the .5mm shim is what you need and the part number for that is 90201-061H1-00-00. Your secondary probably has the thin shim washers in it. The bolts are about 99 cents each and the shims are about the same. I hope this helps everyone.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks to everyone who helped me with this project
The reverse secondary is installed and ready for testing. Black/red spring set at 3-3 and 39 deg helix. Everything fitted pretty well and was able to use the original bushing/spacer on the end of the shaft. The bolt would not fit as the bolt from the VMax was much smaller diameter so I had to get one from the local backyard mechanic and cut it off for now until I get a proper one. I'm pleased that it shifted from forward to reverse real smooth and without hesitation with the belt sitting just below the sheaves. I'm testing it with a worn belt until everything is tested. I only tried it in the garage on wheels but engagement seemed smooth and low RPMs ~ 3000 or less. Will test it on the snow tomorrow. Update: Clutch performed well - didn't have the conditions to go WOT to check the RPM's but got to 11,200 - will see where it is later. Seems about as smooth as with my SBM helix and engine braking is not too bad. Quite pleased that the reverse worked flawlessly with the belt about level with the sheaves. I'm happy with my $50 investment.
The reverse secondary is installed and ready for testing. Black/red spring set at 3-3 and 39 deg helix. Everything fitted pretty well and was able to use the original bushing/spacer on the end of the shaft. The bolt would not fit as the bolt from the VMax was much smaller diameter so I had to get one from the local backyard mechanic and cut it off for now until I get a proper one. I'm pleased that it shifted from forward to reverse real smooth and without hesitation with the belt sitting just below the sheaves. I'm testing it with a worn belt until everything is tested. I only tried it in the garage on wheels but engagement seemed smooth and low RPMs ~ 3000 or less. Will test it on the snow tomorrow. Update: Clutch performed well - didn't have the conditions to go WOT to check the RPM's but got to 11,200 - will see where it is later. Seems about as smooth as with my SBM helix and engine braking is not too bad. Quite pleased that the reverse worked flawlessly with the belt about level with the sheaves. I'm happy with my $50 investment.
