Track Decoupler/coupler?

[SidewinderConvert]

Just a random idea I had this morning. Has anybody looked at making a flip-able coupling block for the track? This way you can run with a coupled track on trail all day. When a washout/stream (or leaving the trail) etc comes up it could be flipped to uncoupled to hop the front end up and over. Finally it would let you switch back to coupled when returning to trail. Thoughts?

 

[Sledroll]

Just a random idea I had this morning. Has anybody looked at making a flip-able coupling block for the track? This way you can run with a coupled track on trail all day. When a washout/stream (or leaving the trail) etc comes up it could be flipped to uncoupled to hop the front end up and over. Finally it would let you switch back to coupled when returning to trail. Thoughts?

There is a device available that couples an uncoupled suspension , but not sure about about uncoupling a coupled one .

 

[Winder_506]

Take the transfer block out of a 137” and presto. Uncoupled. Ran my ‘20 ltx most of the winter with the block out. Much funner on trail and much quicker off the line

 

[4strokes]

I was going to say, once you get used to uncoupled, you may not want it back.

 

[SidewinderConvert]

I was wondering if there was a way to make it tool-less and quick so it can be done on the side of the trail. That way it is possible to have the best of both worlds. On trail I normally run the twisties where I have found I ended up adjusting coupling almost as high as it would go on my old '06s. On the sidewinder I am trying to figure out a way to have my cake and eat it too.

 

[4strokes]

need to move the shaft back and put larger blocks on it

 

[SidewinderConvert]

need to move the shaft back and put larger blocks on it

I was thinking of trying to move the shaft back then put the same size block on it with a flippable extension. That way when normal coupling is desired the extension is flipped forwards, when lessened/no coupling is desired the extension is flipped out of the way allowing more travel.

 

[Sledroll]

Take the transfer block out of a 137” and presto. Uncoupled. Ran my ‘20 ltx most of the winter with the block out. Much funner on trail and much quicker off the line

I do not believe the blocks have anything remotely to do with coupling , only travel .
I found on my 17 LTX-LE 137 , that taking the blocks out did next to nothing , as sag takes up most of that travel.
I took off the blocks and moved the cross bar back about an inch , and along with the 240 tune and Yamaha replacement helix found some of the fun factor I miss from my Apex with the Star uncoupling kit .
I percieve the next step to finding incremental travel , is to go to the 240 SS tune , which initiates the turbo boost at a slightly lower rpm.
Ideally I want to get the travel /ski launch , to the point where I can install the blocks back in , so I have some easy adjustability.

 

[4strokes]

I can tell you this from experience. couplers go through hell, so don't bother light duty

 

[Winder_506]

I do not believe the blocks have anything remotely to do with coupling , only travel .
I found on my 17 LTX-LE 137 , that taking the blocks out did next to nothing , as sag takes up most of that travel.
I took off the blocks and moved the cross bar back about an inch , and along with the 240 tune and Yamaha replacement helix found some of the fun factor I miss from my Apex with the Star uncoupling kit .
I percieve the next step to finding incremental travel , is to go to the 240 SS tune , which initiates the turbo boost at a slightly lower rpm.
Ideally I want to get the travel /ski launch , to the point where I can install the blocks back in , so I have some easy adjustability.

When the suspension comes back and hits on the block in the rear that is what a coupled suspension is. An XTX for instance in the sidewinder or viper has no block, uncoupled skid. I don’t want to put it back in. Way too much fun on the trial and way better launch off the line when drag racing. You can buy the speedo wrex block from Yamaha that’s adjustable but I love the pro cross chassis with out the coupling block. Just a blast to ride and loft the skis for 660 feet.

 

[STAIN]

When the suspension comes back and hits on the block in the rear that is what a coupled suspension is

Yup, when that rear arm hits the block it starts to compress the front shock,"coupling" the front and rear arms.

 

[Winder_506]

Yup, when that rear arm hits the block it starts to compress the front shock,"coupling" the front and rear arms.

Yes I understand that. Sled roll said e block has nothing to do with coupling. When that’s actually exactly what it does

 

[fourload]

Just a random idea I had this morning. Has anybody looked at making a flip-able coupling block for the track? This way you can run with a coupled track on trail all day. When a washout/stream (or leaving the trail) etc comes up it could be flipped to uncoupled to hop the front end up and over. Finally it would let you switch back to coupled when returning to trail. Thoughts?

Check this out. Pretty slick!
http://www.skinzprotectivegear.com/snowmobileproductad/arc.html

 

[STAIN]

Yes I understand that. Sled roll said e block has nothing to do with coupling. When that’s actually exactly what it does

I am agreeing with you...……..

 

[Sledroll]

I am agreeing with you...……..

I may have used the wrong wording to explain my beliefs in this matter
I am under the impression that coupling is the connection of the front shock to the back shock , so the back shock can react in unison with the front shock .
On a non coupled suspension the 2 shocks don't "communicate " .
On a non coupled suspension there is no pivot shaft and stopper as the 2 shocks don't "talk", so the shaft and blocks are not needed .
The pivot shaft with stoppers determine when the talking starts , not if.
Does anybody agree with me ?