Track Longevity

[Derailed]

For anyone interested, Just replaced the original 129” rip saw track on my 2017 RTX at 12’000km. The track was studded down the middle with 96 woody good diggers. I had 2 studs tear out, maybe I got lucky but no damage to the front or rear cooler. Sled is stock, mostly trail ridden with some ditch banging and it wasn’t uncommon for me to run 100+ mph. For what it’s worth, I always ran the track at 2” deflection with 20lbs.

I went with another ripsaw II because it’s what’s I found in stock. I figure I will stud this one too. I was thinking going with double backers this time.

Anyone have any comments or thoughts on that?

P.S.
I replaced the drive axle at 8’000km due to spinning in the bearing and used green loc tight (didn’t work which you already knew) but no axle saver. At 12’000km the bearing had spun again but the wear was on the inner bearing race not the axle, I reinstalled a new bearing with the axle saver this time.

Still on the original drive chain as they are back ordered currently.

Sled Safe,

 

[KnappAttack]

IMO double backers are far better for traction and reliability. Any time I’ve seen tear outs it’s always the single studs. They rip out much easier as there is far less support and flexing in the track. That said if you ride like an idiot spinning over everything in sight, you can also hook something under the snow and tear out a double also, it’s just not as common to have it happen. I use as many doubles as I can to take stress off the singles if I have to mix singles in.

 

[Simplespeed]

I used angled doubles and some singles in a 128 down the middle and have a 1000 miles on them and no issues… And they are all sharpened to a blunt point to get some penetration on ice using Woodys products.. Very happy with performance and longevity..

 

[vmxrdr]

For anyone interested, Just replaced the original 129” rip saw track on my 2017 RTX at 12’000km. The track was studded down the middle with 96 woody good diggers. I had 2 studs tear out, maybe I got lucky but no damage to the front or rear cooler. Sled is stock, mostly trail ridden with some ditch banging and it wasn’t uncommon for me to run 100+ mph. For what it’s worth, I always ran the track at 2” deflection with 20lbs.

I went with another ripsaw II because it’s what’s I found in stock. I figure I will stud this one too. I was thinking going with double backers this time.

Anyone have any comments or thoughts on that?

P.S.
I replaced the drive axle at 8’000km due to spinning in the bearing and used green loc tight (didn’t work which you already knew) but no axle saver. At 12’000km the bearing had spun again but the wear was on the inner bearing race not the axle, I reinstalled a new bearing with the axle saver this time.

Still on the original drive chain as they are back ordered currently.

Sled Safe,

Hurricane shipped me a chain overnight. He had some when nobody else had any left

 

[Snowaddict]

I went with another ripsaw II because it’s what’s I found in stock. I figure I will stud this one too. I was thinking going with double backers this time.

Anyone have any comments or thoughts on that?

2017 LTX LE studded (3 per bar-combo of doubles and singles on inside only.) Sno studs brand. Has treated me ok thus far. (since brand new.) I had never tried doubles until this sled. The only issue is if one's going to tear out, it's going to be a bigger chunk of track vs if it were just one stud. So, far, so good, though.

 

[Turboflash]

A. Know what your track is on before spinning track. Anyone can destroy ANY track by spinning over rocks, curbs, stumps, logs, railroad tracks, manhole covers, etc.
B. More studs is easier on track than not enough. Amount of force per stud.
C. Too long studs are risky with a cowboy running fun flipper.

 

[Simplespeed]

If your spinning, you probably aren’t winning as you guys all know , but even more important if your not spinning then your not doing damage to your track in most cases… I choose Woody’s doubles and singles cause I wanted to try the angled ( preloaded angled plate design ) with longer studs and so far they have exceeded my expectations…. So far means still under testing 1000 miles is a good start ….

 

[Turboflash]

Also know angled backers cause mounted stud head to not lay flat on inside of track. Presents more interference to idler wheels. And, since stud tip is pointed a bit rearward, a bit less braking ability.
Yes, more forward bite, but less braking ability. Stud will have more tendency to slide/skate under hard braking since tip is pointed slightly rearward.
Just depends on how agressive one is braking. You can hear the effect of the tilt on the head of the stud on the stand. More stud noise. Just saying.

 

[Simplespeed]

Also know angled backers cause mounted stud head to not lay flat on inside of track. Presents more interference to idler wheels. And, since stud tip is pointed a bit rearward, a bit less braking ability.
Yes, more forward bite, but less braking ability. Stud will have more tendency to slide/skate under hard braking since tip is pointed slightly rearward.
Just depends on how agressive one is braking. You can hear the effect of the tilt on the head of the stud on the stand. More stud noise. Just saying.

You make valid points and using common sense thinking. What Iam finding is a straight stud under load will tilt way more than we realize so when you preload the stud under load its tends to be straight as it penetrates and stress is applied.. So one could say that just the opposite is happening as straight studs tilt they don’t lay flat and they too create some interference. Just picture force applied to the stud as sled is propelled forward under tremendous load.. As far as braking I have not noticed any change on stopping distances and think that is a non-issue with normal trail riding in which I find that the longer studs make up for any deficits. The reason you can hear additional noise on the jack stand is that the track is not under load . Running under load I don’t hear any more noticeable noise than normal studding…