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3,000 miles and still on the original drive axle, here's my .02

The Dealer in Essex Juntion VT, Franks,sends his lower drive shafts out to be welded,and has a anti rotation pin welded on the shaft to prevent spinning on shaft
 
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The Dealer in Essex Juntion VT, Franks,sends his lower drive shafts out to be welded,and has key ways installed to prevent spinning on shaft
I was thinking this, but I bet it will still wear, just from fitting loose. would be interesting to see how you key the bearing. race isn't very thick. wouldn't be surprised if the race cracked and or wear/shear the key.
I would like to see a nut on the end with rotor floating on its hub. I ask again, who was it hear that welded a nut and made an end cap? If I recall he said the brake pulsed? If it didn't cause brake issues, this is easily doable. Was it Travis that tried it before the wedge?
 
A key, and key way, is not the answer.
Every key & key way, that I've seen is for alignment purposes only for the most part. They Always have a fastener to hold it tight to the shaft.
From harmonic balancers, to small engine fly wheels, to older non-splined driven clutch to shaft applications, the key holds it in place, and the nut torque keeps it from spinning.
A key alone will get hammered, in a very short time, due to the hostile environment that it lives.
Then we've created bigger problems.
Until Yamaha/Arctic engineering changes, the wedge is the only answer.
 
A key, and key way, is not the answer.
Every key & key way, that I've seen is for alignment purposes only for the most part. They Always have a fastener to hold it tight to the shaft.
From harmonic balancers, to small engine fly wheels, to older non-splined driven clutch to shaft applications, the key holds it in place, and the nut torque keeps it from spinning.
A key alone will get hammered, in a very short time, due to the hostile environment that it lives.
Then we've created bigger problems.
Until Yamaha/Arctic engineering changes, the wedge is the only answer.
incorrect about not existing. lawn equipment is loaded with it, and correct in the fact that it doesn't hold. seen many stripped trans input pulleys and similar. sometimes severely worn before the key even shears. sometimes still working just kind of jangling around. would need to be tightened with a nut or a set screw to work, but then wouldn't be needed anyway. brand new one with bearing sitting right in front of me. been on back order and just came in, hot off the press. absolutely no changes, same old thing. bearing is so loose it spins free like a bushing, doesn't even think about rotating the balls.
I am going to get the wedge and drill pins like I said, along with some Loctite.
 
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what about drilling 2 pin holes and put a couple of carefully cut length pins with the wedge to drive them out?
 
this is crazy. all they would need to do is source a bearing with a collar lock and make a deeper seal housing. couldn't be easier, a lot easier than making thousands and thousands of warrantee shafts and claims. awful lot of these things on the trail now, a lot under warrantee.
 
Something like this!!! Sealmaster Skwezloc bearings with cylindrical OD that would go right into a re-sized caliper housing. Then just reach up into tunnel and tighten collar. Shaft perfectly centered in bearing. Then put re-designed (more offset) seal housing on. DONE! Problem solved. It would be EASY to do this. What were Cat engineers thinking and WHY haven't they changed it???!!!!!
 

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Just thinking out loud but Instead of a regular key way what if there was a radius wedge like on a outboard water pump impeller?
 
Something like this!!! Sealmaster Skwezloc bearings with cylindrical OD that would go right into a re-sized caliper housing. Then just reach up into tunnel and tighten collar. Shaft perfectly centered in bearing. Then put re-designed (more offset) seal housing on. DONE! Problem solved. It would be EASY to do this. What were Cat engineers thinking and WHY haven't they changed it???!!!!!
I agree. accept they don't even need to change caliper, just get the existing bearing made with a collar. just replaced a pto because the bearing it uses is proprietary. was just a simple 6206 except a smaller 2 1/8 id. couldn't get one, doesn't exist, yet I have the old one in my hand.
 
incorrect about not existing. lawn equipment is loaded with it, and correct in the fact that it doesn't hold. seen many stripped trans input pulleys and similar. sometimes severely worn before the key even shears. sometimes still working just kind of jangling around. would need to be tightened with a nut or a set screw to work, but then wouldn't be needed anyway. brand new one with bearing sitting right in front of me. been on back order and just came in, hot off the press. absolutely no changes, same old thing. bearing is so loose it spins free like a bushing, doesn't even think about rotating the balls.
I am going to get the wedge and drill pins like I said, along with some Loctite.
A lot of the older skidoo’s had the secondary clutch keyed to the jack shaft and had very few issues. However, neither the jack shaft or clutch were hardened steel like a bearing race.
 
On My 17, I have the original shaft with 15000kms on it. I changed the bearing at 7000kms, at 12000kms and added a BOP wedge at that time. The fit is a little sloppy, but tightened right up with the BOP wedge.

I run my track banjo tight almost. Just feels like this sled runs and drives better with a tight track.
 
The Dealer in Essex Juntion VT, Franks,sends his lower drive shafts out to be welded,and has key ways installed to prevent spinning on shaft
 
All my vintage rides have a cone washer and a nut on the non driven side of the shaft.

Seems pretty basic.

Cat woes.
 


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